Fodors - Fodors Paris 2014

Bienvenue Paris ! Or, welcome to Paris! Although it may seem as if time stands still in this citywith its romantic, old buildings and elegant 19th-century parks and squarestheres an undercurrent of small but significant changes happening here that might not be immediately obvious.

... is greener. Parisians breathe a little easier today as the city moves toward a more eco-friendly lifestyle. And although the image of intellectuals sitting in a caf, cigarette in hand, has largely disappeared since the 2008 ban, the city is now encouraging locals to trash their butts with special additions to some 10,000 trash cans. The city is also cutting down on smog pollution with its ever popular Vlib municipal bikes and launched the AutoLib car-sharing service in December 2011 to cut down on car traffic and make greener transportation the new status quo. In addition to the gradual replacement of paved streets with more aesthetically pleasing cobblestones and widening the tree-lined sidewalks, the city is slowly implementing an ambitious project to permanently pedestrianize the expressways along the Seine, following the success of Paris Plage, the yearly beach party along the river. Even rooftops are going green with gardens and solar panels popping up in several arrondissements.

... is friendlier. One area where fraternit has evolved is with French service: although North Americans, raised on the principle that the customer is always right, may find servers and store clerks a bit curt (and not always so efficient), Paris has become friendlier than it once was. Everyone seems to be sufficiently over that unpleasant freedom fry scuffle in 2003, and a changing political climate sees more and more similarities between the Anglo-Saxon and French societies. Also, many of Pariss waiters have discovered that happy American tourists tip better than unhappy oneseven when the 15% service fee is already included in the bill. Thats not to say that service is delivered with a smile everywhere; it never hurts to learn a few French phrases, which will almost always reward you with warmer welcomes.

is healthier. A gastronomic capital, the foie gras and pastries arent going anywhere, but Paris is opening up to more diverse eating options and healthier lifestyles. Gluten-free visitors can have a meal at Noglu or have a traditional French pastry at Helmut Newcake, Frances first-gluten-free bakery. Gelato lovers who happen to be lactose intolerant can enjoy dairy-free options at Amorino. Even the markets are now offering locally grown superfood kale thanks to the effort of an American expat. On a similar note, with the Vlib biking system here to stay, Parisians are moving their bodies. Ever-expanding gym facilities and yoga studios are also making exercising more culturally acceptable than ever before, not that the French had a huge weight problem to begin with.

is geekier. Paris has turned into an innovation paradise. New gadgets and gizmos pop up everywhere in the streets since an ongoing initiative by City Hall began in 2010 to explore new inventions. The result? Centers like the Gat Lyrique mix technology with art on a daily basis; Google is everywhere with permanent exhibits at the Pavillon de lArsenal; and even Versailles enlists the latest technology to engage visitors. Not to be left behind, the Louvre uses Nintendo 3DS systems as their audio guides. And though it may seem that small bakeries are untouched by the march of time, even those little corner shops are giving a nod to the future by letting you pay directly at an automated machine.

... is open in August and on Sunday. As recently as five years ago, Paris was still largely deserted in August when the locals fled to the countryside and beaches, leaving a wake of closed shops and restaurants. Today the city is very much alive throughout the summer, with outdoor music festivals, the beach along the Seine that is Paris Plage, and perhaps even budget constraints keeping more Parisians in town. Although the August exodus was never official policy, the closed on Sunday was part of French law until 2009, when the government decided that allowing shops to stay open daily would boost the economy and employment. The Marais, the Avenue des Champs-lyses, and St-Germain-des-Prs are among the liveliest places to go on Sunday, but other neighborhoods arent the ghost towns they once were.

... is even sweeter. Paris has always been a haven for anyone with a sweet tooth, but in the past few years there has been a veritable explosion of sugary temptations, from Ladures newest tearoom at the Chteau de Versailles and the stiff competition among the citys macaron makers to the widespread craze for Italian gelato shops such as Grom, Amorino, Pozzetto, Deliziefolie, and Gelati dAlberto. No room for a full dessert? Opt for the Caf Gourmand, served in many trendy cafs, which is an espresso served with an artistic array of minipastries.

... is as luxurious as ever. Did somebody say theres a recession? If so, the hospitality industry has been too busy building new luxury palace hotels in Paris to have heard the news. The complete overhaul and opening of the Royal Monceau in October 2010, with decor by Philippe Starck and management under the Raffles brand, was immediately followed by the opening of a Mandarin Oriental on the Rue St-Honor and a Shangri-La at Trocadro.

... is making a place for contemporary art. Paris has always honored its old masters, but these days, its creating a space for living artists with the reopening of 59 Rivoli, the famous art squat on the Rue de Rivoli, as well as high-profile exhibitions at the Chteau de Versailles such as Jeff Koons and Murakami. Le BAL LAB in Montmartre is a new independent center for documentary images, and in 2011 the historic Gat Lyrique reopened as a digital arts center.