Fodors - Fodors Southern Italy

Coming off the Autostrada at Roma Nord or Roma Sud, you know by the convergence of heavily trafficked routes that you are entering a grand nexus: All roads lead to Rome. And then the interminable suburbs, the railroad crossings, the intersectionsno wonder they call it the Eternal City. As you enter the city proper, features that match your expectations begin to take shape: a bridge with heroic statues along its parapets; a towering cake of frothy marble decorated with allegorical figures in extravagant poses; a piazza and an obelisk under an umbrella of pine trees. Then you spot what looks like a multistory parking lot; with a gasp, you realize its the Colosseum.

You have arrived. Youre in the citys heart. You step down from your excursion bus onto the broad girdle of tarmac that encircles the great stone arena of the Roman emperors, and scurry out of the way of the passing Fiatsthe motorists behind the wheels seem to display the panache of so many Ben-Hurs. The excitement of arriving here jolts the senses and sharpens expectations.

The timeless city to which all roads lead, Mamma Roma, enthralls visitors today as she has since time immemorial. More than Florence, more than Venice, this is Italys treasure storehouse. Here, the ancient Romans made us heirs-in-law to what we call Western civilization; where centuries later Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel; where Gian Lorenzo Berninis baroque nymphs and naiads still dance in their marble fountains; and where, at Cinecitt Studios, Fellini filmed La Dolce Vita and Today, the city remains a veritable Grand Canyon of culture: Ancient Rome rubs shoulders with the medieval, the modern runs into the Renaissance, and the result is like nothing so much as an open-air museum.

Little wonder Romes enduring popularity feeds a gluttonous tourism industry that can feel more like National Lampoons European Vacation than Roman Holiday. As tour buses belch black smoke and the line at the Vatican Museums stretches on into eternity, even the steeliest of sightseers have been known to wonder, why am I here? The answer, with apologies to Dorothy, is: Theres no place like Rome. Yesterdays Grand Tourists thronged the city for the same reason todays Expedians do. Majestic, complicated, enthralling, romantic, chaotic, monumental Rome is one of the worlds great citiespast, present, and, probably, future.

But always remember: Quando a Roma vai, fai come vedrai (When in Rome, do as the Romans do). Dont feel intimidated by the press of art and culture. Instead, contemplate the grandeur from a table at a sun-drenched caf on Piazza della Rotonda; let Romes colorful life flow around you without feeling guilty because you havent seen everything. It cant be done, anyway. Theres just so much here that you will have to come back again, so be sure to throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain. It works.

The Pantheon: Of ancient Romes remains, this is the best preserved and most impressive.

St. Peters Square and Basilica: The primary church of the Catholic faith is truly awe-inspiring.

Galleria Borghese: With a setting as exquisite as its collection, this small, elegant museum showcases some of the finest baroque and Renaissance art in Italy.

A morning walk through Campo de Fiori: The city comes alive in this bustling market square.

Roman pizza: Maybe its the ovens, maybe the crust, maybe the cheese, but they just dont make it like this back home.

Rome is a sprawling city, but youll likely spend most of your time in and around the historic center. The area is split by the River Tiber ( Tevere in Italian). To its west are the Vatican and the Trastevere neighborhood. To its east is everything else youve come to see: the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, and scores of other exceptional sights, not to mention piazzas, fountains, shops, and restaurants. This is one of the most culturally rich plots of land in the world.

Ancient Rome. Backstopped by the stupendous Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill were once the hub of Western civilization.

Navona and Campo. At the heart of Romes historic quarter, these districts revolve around the ancient Pantheon, Campo de Fiori, and spectacular Piazza Navona.

Corso and Spagna. Romes Broadway, Via del Corso, begins at Piazza Venezia and neatly divides the city center in two. A few blocks east is Piazza de Spagna, a classic area for people-watching and sophisticated shopping.

Repubblica and Quirinale. A largely 19th-century district, Repubblica lets art lovers go for baroque with a bevy of Bernini works. To the south looms the Quirinale hill, crowned by Italys presidential palace.

Villa Borghese and Piazza del Popolo. Romes largest park is home to the treasure-packed Galleria Borghese. Neighboring Piazza del Popolo is one of the citys main squares.

The Vatican. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and artlovers come here to see St. Peters Basilica, the Vatican Museums, and the Sistine Chapel.

The Ghetto and Trastevere. Once a Jewish quarter, the newly gentrified Ghetto still preserves the flavor of Old Rome. Across the Tiber, Trastevere is a neighborhood of mom-and-pop trattorias and medieval alleyways.

Reservations Required

You should reserve tickets for the following sights. See the listings within the chapter for contact information:

Galleria Borghese requires reservations. Visitors are admitted in two-hour shifts, and prime time slots can sell out days in advance, so it pays to plan ahead. You can reserve by phone or through the gallerys Web site.

In the ancient Rome archaeological area, reservations for the Colosseum save you from standing in a ticket line that sometimes takes upward of an hour. You can reserve by phone or on the Web.

At the Vatican, you need to reserve several days in advance to see the gardens, and several weeks in advance to see the necropolis. For information about attending a papal audience, see the Close Up box A Morning with the Pope several pages into this chapter.

Making the Most of Your Time

Roma, non basta una vita (Rome, a lifetime is not enough): this famous saying should be stamped on the passport of every first-time visitor to the Eternal City. On the other hand, its a warning: Rome is so packed with sights that it is impossible to take them all in; its easy to run yourself ragged trying to check off the items on your Santa Claus list.

At the same time, the saying is a celebration of the citys abundance. Theres so much here, youre bound to make discoveries you hadnt anticipated. To conquer Rome, strike a balance between visits to major sights and leisurely neighborhood strolls.

In the first category, the Vatican and the remains of ancient Rome loom the largest. Both require at least half a day; a good strategy is to devote your first morning to one and your second to the other.