LAVIL
LIFE, LOVE, AND DEATH IN PORT-AU-PRINCE
EDITED BY
PETER ORNER AND EVAN LYON
FOREWORD BY
EDWIDGE DANTICAT
Senior Associate Editor
LAURA LAMPTON SCOTT
Port-au-Prince Editor
JEAN PIERRE MARSEILLE
Arts and Culture Editor
KATIE KANE
Legal Editor
DOUGLAS FORD
Diaspora Editor
SARAH BRODERICK
Associate Editor
YUKIKO TOMINAGA
Advisory Editors
AUDREY PETTY AND SANDRA HERNANDEZ
Assistant Editors
KRIS V. BERNARD, ZOEY FARBER, DOUG FORD, YAEL GOLDSTEIN, JOSHUA A.H. HARRIS, JULIA HELAINE, JESSICA HSU, GLORIA SCHOOFS JORGENSEN, MEGAN KRUSE, MAX KUBISIAK, DEIRDRE LOCKWOOD, EDWARD LOUISEAU, ANNIE MCDONOUGH, LORIA MENDOZA, DYLAN MOHR, ANDREW GAVIN MURPHY, BLERIANA MYFTIU, JEAN PIERREMONT, FERNANDO PUJALS, KATE RUTLEDGE JAFFE, NOA SILVER, NICOLE SIMPKINS, BRITTANY SMALL, CHRISTINE TEXEIRA, EMMA TRZS, STEVE WILSON, CLAIRE WOODARD, JUSTIN Z. WYCKOFF, CHRIS YUN
Translators
PAUL DOMNGUEZ HERNNDEZ, MARTINE FLEURIUS, MARVENS JOSEPH, GASLINE LAGUERE, ANNIE McDONOUGH
Transcribers
JEAN BERTELSEN, PETER ENDICOTT, JOSH FOMON, BETH GIBSON, KAYE HERRANEN, LAUREN LOFTIS, BECKY MARGOLIS, NAOKI OBRYAN, INGE OOSTERHOF, ARIELA ROSA, WILLIAM SEFTON, SHANNON SMITH, VALERIE SNOW, MATTHEW SPENCER, MARY THOMPSON, SAMUEL WARREN, KAZIAH WHITE
Research editors
LEILANI DOUGLAS AND SARAH WESSELER
Research assistants
PETER ENDICOTT, ARIANNA KANDELL, KATHERINE PRICE, SAMUEL WARREN
Copy editor
JEFFREY KLEIN
For Adrienne and Family
In Memory of Loutchama
First published by Verso 2017
Verso and Voice of Witness 2017
All rights reserved
The moral rights of the authors have been asserted
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Verso
UK: 6 Meard Street, London W1F 0EG
US: 20 Jay Street, Suite 1010, Brooklyn, NY 11201
versobooks.com
Verso is the imprint of New Left Books
ISBN-13: 978-1-78478-682-3
ISBN-13: 978-1-78478-684-7 (US EBK)
ISBN-13: 978-1-78478-683-0 (UK EBK)
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Catalog-in-Publication Data
Names: Orner, Peter, editor. | Lyon, Evan, editor. | Voice of Witness (Organization), sponsoring body.
Title: Lavil : life, love, and death in Port-au-Prince / edited by Peter Orner and Evan Lyon ; Voice of Witness.
Other titles: Life, love, and death in Port-au-Prince
Description: New York : Verso Books, [2017] | Series: Voice of witness
Identifiers: LCCN 2016046169 | ISBN 9781784786823 (alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Port-au-Prince (Haiti)Biography. | Port-au-Prince (Haiti)Social conditions21st century. | Port-au-Prince (Haiti)Economic conditions21st century. | Haiti Earthquake, Haiti, 2010Personal narratives. | InterviewsPort-au-Prince (Haiti) | HaitiSocial conditions21st century. | HaitiBiography.
Classification: LCC F1929.P8 L38 2017 | DDC 972.94/52dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016046169
Typeset in Garamond by MJ&N Gavan, Truro, Cornwall
Printed in the US by Maple Press
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CONTENTS
It is the morning of the feast of Corpus Christi, fte Dieu, in Port-au-Prince. The sun rises early and fast, along with a chorus of voices singing hymns. Altar boys in flowing white robes and girls in long, spotless communion dresses weave rosary beads through their gloved fingers, or adjust crowns of white flowers on their heads. The parents walk at their childrens side, their beaming faces glowing in the hot sun. He must be present in my life every day, they sing. Fk li prezan chak jou nan vi mwen.
Corpus Christi processions are meant to commemorate Christs body, in pain, but Haitians have plenty of their own pain. The procession circles a makeshift displacement camp where mothers are bathing their children in buckets of cloudy water in front of the layers of frayed faded tarp they call home. Before entering the crowd with her grandmother, my six-year-old U.S.-born daughter, who is returning to Port-au-Prince for the first time since the January 12, 2010 earthquake, repeats something shes told us many times since we landed in the city. I thought everything was broken.
Built for 200,000 people yet home to more than 2 million, Port-au-Prince is a city that constantly reminds you of the obvious, as though you were a six-year-old. No, everything is not broken. And no, not all the people are dead. Every person in that procession, and every person living in the city, bears that communal testimony, and Port-au-Prince is a testimonial city. It is a city that everythingfires, hurricanes, earthquakes, political upheavalhas conspired to destroy, yet still it carries on, in part due to the resoluteness of its people, a few of whose stories you will read about here.
The republic of Port-au-Prince, as it is often called, is a city of survivors. Even those who would like to see the country decentralized or have the capital moved elsewhere talk about creating another Port-au-Prince, a different one for sure, but an improved version of the old one. Still, Port-au-Prince is also a heartbreaking city. It is a city where a restaurant that charges over twenty American dollars for a steak might stand inches from some place where others are starving. It is a city where the dead can lie in a morgue for weeks as the family clamors for money to pay for the burial.