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Pete Brown - The Pub: A Cultural Institution — From Country Inns to Craft Beer Bars and Corner Locals

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    The Pub: A Cultural Institution — From Country Inns to Craft Beer Bars and Corner Locals
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WINNER OF THE DRINK BOOK AWARD AT THE FORTNUM & MASON FOOD AND DRINK AWARDS 2017.

Pete Brown has visited hundreds of pubs across the UK and is uniquely placed to write about pubs that ooze atmosphere, for whatever reason - food, people, architecture, location or decor. The best pubs are those that always have a steady trade at any time on any day of the week, and where chat flows back and forth across the bar. Theyre the places where you want to drink weak beer so you can have several pints and stay longer. Some are grand Victorian palaces, others ancient inns with stunning views across the hills. Some are ale shrines, others gastropubs (though they probably dont call themselves that any more). A precious few are uniquely eccentric, the kinds of places that are just as likely to have terrible reviews on Trip Advisor as great ones, because some people dont realize that the outside toilets, limp sandwiches on the bar and really disturbing full-size mannequin glaring at you from the corner are all part of the charm.

This collection of 300 pubs with atmosphere will include 50 pub features and 250 smaller descriptions, alongside quirks of local history, pen portraits of punters or publicans, legends, yarns and myths, and case studies of different trends and types of pub.

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INTRODUCTION How do you sum up something as beautifully anarchic as the - photo 1
INTRODUCTION How do you sum up something as beautifully anarchic as the - photo 2
INTRODUCTION How do you sum up something as beautifully anarchic as the - photo 3
INTRODUCTION

How do you sum up something as beautifully anarchic as the British pub?

P UBS HAVE BEEN the cornerstone of British social life for at least a thousand years. History books may be full of kings, queens, politics and wars, but the real history of Britain the history of the vast majority of the population happened in and around the pub.

Theres a pub at the heart of every successful soap opera on TV. The idea of the pub as represented by the scriptwriters common, neutral ground where all members of society mingle is eternal. Chaucer used it in The Canterbury Tales in exactly the same way as its been used by the writers of Coronation Street for the last 60 years. Its unique brand of humour defines and encapsulates British life.

For much of our history, the pub was the single focal point of our social lives. Anything we wanted to do, from playing games to meeting future spouses, we did there.

Thats no longer the case. We now have more and varied choices for what we want to do with our leisure time and more pressure on that leisure time than weve ever had before. But the simple mention of the word pub still makes us smile affectionately in a way that squash court, coffee shop or shopping mall never could.

The stunning beautifully preserved main bar at the Garden Gate in Hunslet - photo 4

The stunning, beautifully preserved main bar at the Garden Gate in Hunslet, Leeds.

There are still around 50,000 pubs in the UK, and this book contains fewer than 350. Its not an attempt to list every good pub in the UK. It doesnt even claim that the 350-ish pubs here are the 350-ish best pubs in Britain. Without visiting all 50,000, that would be an impossible claim for me to make.

So if you have a favourite pub that youre fiercely proud of, and you genuinely think its the best pub in the world, theres a good chance its not here. Sorry.

This book is a personal journey through the world of pubs. And its also a slice through pubs, a representation of their diversity and character. I could easily have filled a book this size with the pubs of London, or the pubs of Yorkshire. Where I know loads of great pubs, Ive had to be brutal in deciding which to leave out. In areas where I havent really drunk before, Ive had the best time following the recommendations of people I trust, discovering places unfamiliar to me and that make me see my home country in a whole new, wonderful light.

I hope you enjoy drinking in these pubs as much as I did.

Cheers.

Pete Brown

PUB
History
WHATS IN A NAME To write the history of the pub you first have to define - photo 5
WHATS IN A NAME?

To write the history of the pub, you first have to define what it actually is and thats not as easy as it might sound.

I F YOU WERE TO START compiling a list of the names of every pub you saw, you would quickly begin to see some common names and themes: The Red Lion, The White Hart, The Kings Head, The Rose and Crown.

These names bear witness to the continuity of the pub over the last thousand years. If your local, say The Kings Head, is old enough, it was probably once called The Popes Head before a tactical name change following Henry VIIIs Reformation. The Rose and Crown, meanwhile, dates back to the war that ended with Henrys father claiming the English throne. The Red Lion and White Hart were heraldic signifiers belonging to knights and date from even further back in time.

Originally these were not written names at all, but easily recognizable symbols to serve a population that was mostly illiterate. The symbols were painted onto signs hanging over the street, or directly onto walls, and were used to differentiate one establishment from another.

So just how old is the pub? Well, that depends on your point of view. I usually say about a thousand years. But I could also argue for an age of two thousand, or two hundred.

DRINKING PLACES

When individual old pubs stake their rival claims to be the oldest in Britain, they choose their parameters carefully. A building may be only 300 years old (only!) but the pub may have been mentioned by name centuries before that. It probably burnt down and was rebuilt in the same spot. So is it the same pub or a different one? Another pub might be built on foundations that are 800 years old, even if most of the structure is Georgian. So is it 800 years old, or 200?

You can get into similar debates with the whole notion of the pub. Some pubs with certain characteristics are called inns. And the most famous inn of all time is the one in Judaea where there was no room on Christmas Eve 2000 years ago. Does this mean inns are at least 2000 years old? Or are we using a slightly incorrect word in our translation from ancient Hebrew?

These are the kind of questions that could keep a conversation going down the pub for an entire evening, but lets cut to the chase: if you define a pub as a place where people gather to consume alcohol and drink, laugh, chat, confide, bond and flirt, then the first pub was probably a pleasant woodland clearing or desert oasis some 50,000 years ago. If you define it as a building specifically designed for this practice, pubs of some description are as old as the earliest cities around 10,000 years old. But if you want to know about the British pub the institution that ostensibly serves the same function as bars and cafes, but has a quite different character thats a story that begins in the Middle Ages and carries on evolving today.

Anyway, back to those pub names you were collecting. As you gather a few more, you might notice some subtle distinctions. You might find a Kings Head Tavern and a Kings Head Inn, for example. Does it make any difference? Probably not. We might refer to a pub as a hostelry, watering hole or boozer. Some pubs are developing a tedious habit of referring to themselves as a Bar and Kitchen or Craft Beer House, as if this somehow makes them more special than mere pubs. Inns, taverns and alehouses are just different words for the pub, and we frequently use them interchangeably.

But that wasnt always the case. Historically, the inn, the tavern and the alehouse were different establishments with different functions, and even had different licensing conditions. Each establishment contributed something to the DNA of the modern pub and that at least starts to explain why the pub is so singular in its character.

Pub signs like these are the descendants of large visual icons that identified - photo 6

Pub signs like these are the descendants of large visual icons that identified pubs when most people couldnt read.

Cask ale barrels on traditional stillage at The Rugglestone Inn Devon a sight - photo 7

Cask ale barrels on traditional stillage at The Rugglestone Inn, Devon a sight thats not as common as it once was.

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