Tomas Tranaeus - Top 10 Lisbon

The tiny and partially restored neighbourhood of Santa Cruz do Castelo (within the old citadel) is one of the most picturesque parts of Lisbon. It is home to ageing residents as well as younger investors and luxury hotels.

The myth of Martim Moniz, a soldier who is said to have given his life as a doorstopper in 1147, allowing Afonso Henriques and his crusaders to enter the castle, has a durable grip on the Lisboetan imagination. The gate where his unverified deed took place bears his name, as does a central Lisbon square below the castle.

Tip: The west-facing esplanade is at its best in the late afternoon, with a low sun painting everything in warm hues. Early mornings here are shady, and can be chilly.

Tip: The outdoor bars at Chapit or Bar das Imagens are good places to digest a visit to the castle.

Few of Lisbons monuments are overly grand and while this historic monastery is imposing, its proportions remain approachable. Built from the beginning of the 16th century by Diogo de Boytac and finally by Joo de Castilho and Jernimo de Ruo, Jernimos represents Portugals territorial expansion and is an expression of a uniquely national style. Its also a monument to Portuguese identity, housing tombs of men who helped make the country great, including navigator Vasco da Gama, Dom Sebastio and poet Lus de Cames. Praa do Imprio, Belm 213 620 034 Open 10am6pm (5pm OctApr) TueSun; closed 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 1 May, Easter Sun Adm 10 (concessions 5; under-12s free; free on first Sun of the month) www.mosteirojeronimos.pt

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Restraint might not be the word for this towering sculpture of an entrance, but look closely and youll see that none of its parts is overpoweringly large. The figures include Henry the Navigator.