Gonzáles Tomás - In the Beginning Was the Sea

L EAVING THE PLAZA , J. threaded his way through the dusty streets. After a few blocks, the brick and concrete buildings gave way to wooden shacks mounted on short piles and the crawlspace underneath the houses teemed with chickens, pigs and children. He arrived at the docks. Here, finally, he could see the water, but this was stagnant water, rippled only by a slow, oily swell. There was not a single gull, not a single gannet, nothing that evoked the sea. Motorboats were moored next to short, worm-eaten wooden wharfs swollen with damp. The supporting posts were green with slime where they had been lapped by water and warped where they were covered at high tide while, above, the jetties were dry and splintered. The long, narrow boats that wereor had once beenpainted in bright colours seemed weighed down by their huge outboard motors. On some, sweaty black men in cut-off jeans, their expressions solemn and grave, delved into the entrails of the engines.

Do you own this boat? J. asked one of them.

Shes mine, but shes not working, the black man said without looking up.

Who can we talk to about getting to Sever?

The boatman did not answer immediately but went on rummaging in the belly of the engine.

How many passengers? he asked finally.

Two.

How many bags?

One heavy trunk, two suitcases and a sewing machine.

Three boatmen wandered over.

Where you headed?

To a big estate, a finca.

How many bags?

A trunk and a few other bits and pieces, said J., wearily, knowing they had already overheard his conversation with the man tinkering with the engine.

When yet another boatman appeared and asked how many were travelling, J. became irritated. Just then, the man with the malfunctioning engine leapt nimbly onto the jetty and came towards him.

Julito can take them, he said.

Julito! chorused the other men.

Lets go, the first man said curtly.

J. watched as he strode ahead through the dusty streets. After three blocks, they came to the covered market, an imposing building tiled with asbestos cement. To one side of the plaza, men were loading a truck with cured fish while the driver, leaning against a wall, idly watched the proceedings. The windows of the truck were plastered with colourful decals of women in swimsuits and Stetson hats.

How much would it cost us to take an express boat? J. asked as they arrived on the market square, walking across gangplanks laid on the ground.

This timber corridor was lined on either side by grain stalls and J. constantly had to stand as men passed with heavy sacks balanced on their shoulders, their shirts protected by red flannel bayetillas.

Depends.

Depends on what? asked J.

On Julito, said the black man.

Having passed the grain stalls they came to the fritanguerasthe fried food stallswhere sweaty, plump women dropped thick pieces of fish into enormous frying pans. Laid out on the wooden trays that served as counters, the fillets of fried fish immediately cooled to take on an almost mineral appearance while thick slices of fried plantainpataconeswere heaped around them. J. hungrily began to imagine the slap-up feed of pescado y patacn they would have once he had made arrangements for the boat.

As they came to the end of the walkway, the black man disappeared through a door into one of the fritangueras. When J. caught up, he saw the boatman sitting at the back. At the counter, a fat, sullen woman with a huge knife was chopping green plantains. Behind her were five large tables surrounded by long wooden benches, everything painted a pale green. The black boatman was sitting at one of the tables chatting to a short man who was also black. Aside from the boatman and the short black manJulito, probablythe only customer was an old man slowly eating chicken and potato soup.