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Jo Tatchell first arrived in the city of Abu Dhabi as a child in 1974, when the discovery of oil was quickly turning a small fishing town into a growing international community. More than thirty years later, change has reached breakneck pace: Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, is becoming a dizzying metropolis of ten-lane highways and overlapping languages, and its riches and emphasis on cultural development have thrust it into the international spotlight. In A Diamond in the Desert, Tatchell returns to Abu Dhabi and goes on the hunt for the story behind the headlinesretracing old steps, planting new ones, and searching for clues to mysteries that have never left her. She finds more than she bargained fora glimpse into a city that, before it meets a patiently waiting world, must first better get to know itself. Abu Dhabi has a story to hide, and life there carries countless contradictions. The city is a tolerant melting-pot of cultures and faiths, but less than 7,000 of its 800,000 native residents are deemed eligible to vote by the ruling class and the nations president holds absolute veto power over his advisory boards and councils. The Emirates boast one of the worlds highest GDP per capita, but the poor distribution of wealth in its cities is staggering. Abu Dhabis royal family, worth an estimated $500 billion, lives off the sweat of the citys migrant workers, who subject themselves to danger and poverty under barely-observed labor laws. But now, the city is making an international splash with a showy investment in tourism, arts and culture, perhaps signaling a change to a more open, tolerant state. A new film studio is sprouting up in Abu Dhabi, and the year 2013 will bring a new branch of the Louvre and a Guggenheim museum designed by Frank Gehry. But can Abu Dhabi truly commit to a new era of liberty after so many years of control As this sparkling city surges into the future, it devotes just as much energy to concealing its past. Tatchells exploration of Abu Dhabis history takes her to the edge of the Empty Quarter and on a wild goose chase around the city she once thought she knew, and her often-fruitless visits to newspaper archives in search of coverage of an old story reveal the citys desperation to hush up bad news. She seeks out friends old and new, local and expat, and discovers that word of mouth delivers more of the picture than do scattered news clippings. Along the way, she probes unknown aspects of Abu Dhabian history and cultureits ancient system of tribal organization, the condition of the citys million foreign workers, the emergence of women in Emirati societythat might somehow explain the complexity and contradiction of life there. But Tatchells journey is nothing if not personal. Every turn she makes in the present conjures experiences from her past: the news that the offshore Saadiyat Island will house the citys new museums evokes childhood camping trips there, while a reunion with a friend reminds her of their younger days partying in nightclubs and apartments dripping with riches. Memories of a young girls disappearance and a locals gruesome death haunt her, but both mysteries have gone unsolved. Where Abu Dhabi wants to hide its scars, Tatchell cant help but uncover them. Tatchell takes us on a tour of the city with an outlook thats part native, part critic, part wide-eyed traveler. The result is a truly original collage of perspectives and images, from a regal expatriate whose husband was one of the first Brits to settle in Abu Dhabi to young Emirati artists celebrating their newfound freedom of expression. A compelling piece of history told with an intimate narrative voice, A Diamond in the Desert is an eye-opening and often haunting perspective on just how much this fascinating city has changedand, for better or for worse, how much it has stayed the same. CHAPTER-BY-CHAPTER OUTLINE: Prologue - The year is 1965, years before the explosion of the economies of the United Arab Emirates: Longtime partners and friends Edward Henderson, a British Political Officer and supervisor of the blossoming oil trade, and Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan, a member of the royal family and ruler of the Eastern Region, meet among the dunes of the sparsely populated Eastern Region outside of Abu Dhabi. - Henderson has taught Zayed the ways of Western business, while Zayed has opened the doors of his complex, closeted world to Henderson. - Zayed, unique within the royal family, holds a modern vision for Abu Dhabi, which at that time has only a fishing and date-farming economy. Zayed imagines a glittering, prosperous city here on the Persian Gulf. Chapter 1 - The Final Disillusionment - In the present time, Tatchell touches down in Abu Dhabi, more than thirty years after she first arrived. Recently her brother, Bill, mentioned over the phone the plans to open branches of the Guggenheim and Louvre museums on the islet of Saadiyat, where the Tatchells camped as children; the move signals a shiftperhaps toward a more open, tolerant Islamic statefor Abu Dhabi, which has never prioritized high culture. - The Tatchells were one of many expatriate families there: When Mr. Tatchell took a job managing a catering/supermarket company in 1974 (Jo is three), oil interest had begun to change the city from a from tiny seaside village to asphalt roads and Uae currency in the early 70s. - After attending boarding school and university in the UK, Tatchell returns to Abu Dhabi, but is eventually repelled by the injustice of the citys wealth distribution and the indolence of its rich and returns to London in 1993. - Her two returns to Abu Dhabi, both in the 90s and the present, remind Tatchell of Wilfred Thesiger, a British explorer who, like T.E. Lawrence before him, embraced the discipline and loyalty of desert life when he first spent arrived in the 40s. When he returned in the 70s, he was disgusted by the indolence that oil and labor imported from the Indian sub-continent had brought on the people he loved; he called the new Abu Dhabi his final disillusionment.--Abu Dhabis complex political structure features Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed al Nahyan (Khalifa), who as president of the Uae and leader of the Emirate of Abu Dhabi possesses veto power over a number of councils and advisory groups. The Uaes 40-member Federal National Council is the only part of the government that incorporates the public, and hardly: 20 members are appointed by Uae rulers, and the remaining 20 are elected by voters effectively appointed by the rulers as well (only 6,689 of 800,000 Emiratis are eligible voters). - The governments Plan Abu Dhabi 2030 sets out a 25-year strategy for the citys development, promising ongoing access to the desert, sea and natural assets that are integral to our national identity, while building a global capital with its own rich cultural heritage.--The Sheiks father and predecessor, Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan, remains a beloved figure after his death in 2004. His were the last instincts toward a conservative approach to development; in the four years since, there has been more construction than there was in the previous forty. Chapter 2 - Write the Bad News in Sand - The Abu Dhabi of Tatchells youth is a secretive city where news of crime and scandal is passed by word of mouth; a new newspaper, the National, tries to paint an honest picture, but old habits of secrecy die hard. - One incident has haunted Tatchell since her childhood: an English girl disappeared in a flash playing.

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A Diamond in the Desert

Also by Jo Tatchell

Nabeels Song: A Family Story of Survival in Iraq

A Diamond in the Desert

Behind the Scenes
in Abu Dhabi,
the Worlds Richest City

Jo Tatchell

Copyright 2009 by Jo Tatchell All rights reserved No part of this book may be - photo 1

Copyright 2009 by Jo Tatchell

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or All rights
reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or
mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission
in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a
review. Scanning, uploading, and electronic distribution of this book or the facilitation of
such without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. Please purchase only authorized
electronic editions, and do not participate in or encourage electronic piracy of copyrighted
materials. Your support of the authors rights is appreciated. Any member of educational
institutions wishing to photocopy part or all of the work for classroom use, or anthology,
should send inquiries to Grove/Atlantic, Inc., 841 Broadway, New York, NY 10003 or
permissions@groveatlantic.com.

First published in Great Britain in 2009 by
Septre an imprint of Hodder & Stoughton a
Hachette UK Company

Printed in the United States of America

eBook ISBN-13: 978-0-8021-9617-0

Black Cat a paperback original imprint of
Grove/Atlantic, Inc. 841 Broadway New York, NY
10003 Distributed by Publishers Group West
www.groveatlantic.com

For W and L

And for Kate

Once the realisation is accepted that even between the closest people infinite distances exist, a marvellous living side-by-side can grow up for them, if they succeed in loving the expanse between them, which gives them the possibility of always seeing each other as a whole and before an immense sky.

Letters to a Young Poet by Rainer Maria Rilke

Prologue 1965 A plume of golden dust bloomed high into the desert air behind - photo 2

Prologue
1965

A plume of golden dust bloomed high into the desert air behind the Chevrolet pick-up. Edward Henderson was working his way inland from the flat, coastal sands of Abu Dhabi Island towards the red dunes around the Buraimi oasis. The air in the cabin was suffocating, but although it was hard to breathe, the windows and vents had to be kept tightly shut all the way. Even the tiniest crack would allow fine, glassy desert dust to fill the car, dirtying clothes and clogging every crease of his face and lips.

On the seat next to him was a tin of Macintosh toffees and a large metal security trunk, stacked to the brim with neatly tied bundles of money. The pick-up skimmed the slopes, bouncing and jolting along the tracks it was not for nothing that it was called the Boneshaker. There was no respite: under the harsh sun the journey continued, relentlessly, for hours.

Edward was on his way to see Zayed, the brother of Abu Dhabis ruler, Sheikh Shakhbut, and representative, or wali, of Abu Dhabis fertile Eastern Region. Zayed was not easily found. He and his entourage circled Abu Dhabis territory, meeting tribesmen and hunting, rarely settling for more than a few days in any one place. It had become Edwards custom to stop at the home of Zayeds wife, the sheikha: she always knew exactly where, in the dunes around Al Ain, he could be found.

Edward tramped beneath the palm groves towards the mud house, the tin of toffees in his hands. A barefoot servant emerged to greet him, beckoning him into the dim light of the sheikhas quarters.

When she appeared, wrapped in an abaya, the thick black robe women routinely wore, and a stiff, inky burka that covered all of her face but the eyes, she settled herself on a rug behind a gently clicking screen of beads. Salaam alaikum, bin Hender. Come. Sit. As they shared news of family and developments in Abu Dhabi, the sheikha intermittently extended a hand with fruit or dates through the beads. Edward took what he was offered, and, after a while, placed the tin of toffees on the floor between them. Her hand reached for the tin and pulled it towards her.

The sheikha deserved whatever he gave her, for she was not only generous, but helpful. However whimsical her instructions might seem, Edward knew he would come upon the tents and flags on the horizon just where she had said they would be.

Picture 3

Zayeds retainers watched the pick-up approach and gathered, waving him in from the dunes, their robes billowing in the wind. To Edward, it always felt as though they had been expecting him. And perhaps they had. Life here was lived in perpetual readiness for the arrival of guests. The Bedu code of hospitality was sacred.

There was much commotion over his arrival. The men lined up to embrace him, then took him to the large rug spread in front of the pitched tent where Zayed sat. The two men embraced and rubbed noses. They had met more than ten years earlier when Edward had been with Petroleum Development Trucial Coast Ltd, the joint venture between major international oil companies operating in the Trucial States the seven tribal sheikhdoms, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Quwain, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah, spread along the south-eastern Arabian peninsula. As the consortium had begun to plug the desert emptiness with rigs and derricks, Edward had fostered diplomacy in an effort to bring stability to a region whose leaders had been embroiled for generations in shifting tribal allegiances and bitter territorial disputes. The vast investment required by petroleum companies made political co-operation between the tribes essential. There was little point in drilling for oil if constant skirmishes wrecked the possibility of its safe extraction. In line with British interests, Edward had sought, and found, influence with the young Zayed. Over the years they had become firm friends. Zayed had bestowed on him his nickname, bin Hender. He had become one of them.

They treasured those moments in the desert. In its peace they could talk openly of the changes coming to Zayeds country and his people. In return Edward shared with him the ways of Western business and politics. Zayed was at his most content there, with his retinue, his hunting falcons, his tents, his camels and his God. The desert was the home of tribal business. It was so vast and inhospitable that people were insignificant; it was impossible to be anything other than pragmatic. It was there that awkward land and tribal disputes were settled, news was exchanged and plans were made. Respected for his falconry and equestrian skills, Zayed had become a voice for the tribes. He had spent years journeying across the Bedu territories, meeting tribal chiefs, hearing grievances great and small, and offering guidance as the world around them began to change. With unswerving faith he encouraged peace through consultation and consensus, sura and ijma.

Zayeds instinct for reform and modernity added to his appeal at least, to those interested in oil. In the early 1950s he had travelled to Europe and begun to build some of what he had seen there into his own vision for the future. He wished his impoverished people to enjoy a life beyond fishing and date farming. It had been in the deserts silence and stillness that he had first dreamed of a glittering Gulf city on the coast.

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