Many Roman bars are traditionally daytime haunts, but there are now also plenty of bars and pubs conducive to an evenings drinking, and the citys old-fashioned wine bars or enoteche have also become more popular in recent years. The Milanese tradition of aperitivi has taken off in bars throughout the city; many places put on a free buffet at around 67pm to attract pre-dinner drinkers. Wherever you are, you can drink late most places are open until at least 1am but Campo de Fiori and the Centro Storico near Piazza Navona, and the nightlife districts of Trastevere , Testaccio and Pigneto are the liveliest areas in the city centre.
Shopping
The opening of new flagship stores for the likes of Valentino and Fendi have re-energized Romes shopping scene in recent years. For designer fashion, head to the streets close to the Spanish Steps Via Condotti, Via Borgognona and Via del Babuino. Nearby Via del Corso offers young, affordable fashion; for smarter wares try Via Cola di Rienzo in Prati. There are lots of independent boutiques around Campo de Fiori and in Monti , and antique shops line Via dei Coronari . For foodie souvenirs try the markets on Campo de Fiori and in Testaccio . The Sunday Porta Portese flea market is a quintessentially Roman experience.
Nightlife
Theres a concentration of clubs in Ostiense and Testaccio , while Trastevere , and the Centro Storico from the Jewish Ghetto to the Pantheon, are good for bars, with the odd backstreet club. The San Lorenzo and Pigneto areas near Termini have plenty of laidback, studenty hangouts, often with live music. More alternative places are run as private clubs usually known as centri sociali , where entry will be free but you may be stung for a membership fee. In summer, Roman nightlife centres on the Tiber, with pop-up venues and food stalls along its banks.
Our recommendations for where to eat, drink and shop are listed at the end of each Places chapter
Itineraries
Rome began here, and the two museums that flank the elegant square are among the citys key sights.
Some of the most ruined ruins youll see, but also the most atmospheric.
The most recognizable and perhaps the greatest ancient Roman monument of them all.
LunchEnjoying the good, traditional Roman food at , its hard to believe youre just a few minutes from the Colosseum.
No trip to the city could be complete without a visit to this fountain.
The Spanish Steps, Keats-Shelley House and the square itself are among the citys most compelling attractions.
Enclosed in an impressive purpose-built structure, the amazing frieze here depicts the imperial family during the time of Augustus.
The Bernini sculptures here are the pure essence of Rome (be sure to book in advance).
DinnerA meal in lively Trastevere is a must and you cant go wrong with a slap-up dinner at .
Ice creamserves arguably the citys best ice cream.
It would be a pity to leave Rome without seeing the citys greatest Baroque attraction.
So much more than the Sistine Chapel this staggering complex of museums is not to be missed.
Lunch, a long-established Tuscan restaurant close by the Vatican walls, is a good place to recover from museum fatigue.
One of the Centro Storicos loveliest open spaces, and close to the church of San Luigi dei Francesi and Palazzo Altemps.
Wander through Campo de Fiori many peoples favourite Roman square and explore the surrounding streets, full of shops and cafs.
Romes most intact ancient sight, and near one of the citys great churches, Santa Maria sopra Minerva.
Stroll through the crumbling old Jewish quarter, an ancient part of the city centre.
Dinneris one of the Ghettos best restaurants, with fantastic Roman-Jewish cooking served in lovely surroundings.
Ice creamis one of the longest running and best of Romes many gelaterie .
Romes piazzas, fountains and other public structures are fantastic, and many of its churches packed with sumptuous art. The big sights can be pricey, though its worth timing your visit around the first Sunday of the month, when Romes state-run museums and monuments are free to all.
Start out at one of the citys most beautiful churches, where two works by Caravaggio can be viewed in their original setting and for free.
All you need is energy to climb to the top and enjoy the views.
The only cost is the coins you decide to chuck in.
Lunchis renowned for its pizza by the slice.
Free to clamber up the steps and enjoy the views though you pay for the lifts to the very top.
Theres no entry fee for this or any other Roman church.
Free on the last Sunday of the month perhaps the worlds greatest sightseeing bargain.
DinnerHead up to for some of the citys best arancini just 2.50 a pop.
Ice creamserves huge portions of delicious ice cream.
You could spend several days seeing Romes most obvious sights, and youd have a wonderful time mostly with lots of other people. Here are some suggestions for having a great day out in the city, while avoiding the crowds.
Peer through the ornate keyhole and youll be rewarded with a special view best enjoyed at sunset. Well worth the trek up the Aventine Hill.
Take in the small museum next door to the Ges; it incorporates the rooms where St Ignatius stayed and a fantastic trompe loeil painting by Andrea Pozzo.
Only open on a Saturday morning, and partly because of this an undiscovered treasure among the citys great family palace-galleries.
LunchTucked away around the corner from the Trevi Fountain, does delicious Emilian food.