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Mike Cox - Finding the Wild West: The Great Plains: Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, and the Dakotas

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A modern-day explorers guide to the Old West

From the famed Oregon Trail to the boardwalks of Dodge City to the great trading posts on the Missouri River to the battlefields of the nineteenth-century Indian Wars, there are places all over the American West where visitors can relive the great Western migration that helped shape our history and culture. This guide to the Great Plains states of Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska and the Dakotas--one of the five-volume Finding the Wild West series--highlights the best-preserved historic sites as well as ghost towns, reconstructions, museums, historical markers, statues, and works of public art that tell the story of the Old West. Use this book in planning your next trip and for a storytelling overview of Americas Wild West history.

Mike Cox: author's other books


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An elected member of the Texas Institute of Letters, Mike Cox is the author of more than thirty-five nonfiction books. Over an award-winning freelance career dating back to his high school days, he has written hundreds of newspaper articles and columns, magazine stories, and essays for a wide variety of regional and national publications. When not writing, he spends as much time as he can traveling, fishing, hunting, and looking for new stories to tell. He lives in the Hill Country village of Wimberley, Texas.

A crossroads in the Cherokee Nation looked like a good place to start a - photo 1

A crossroads in the Cherokee Nation looked like a good place to start a business, so William J. (Jeff) Reed built a store and a log cabin for his family there in 1890. The next year, when the government approved a post office at his store, he named it Ada for his daughter. Sales picked up considerably when the Frisco Railroad arrived in 1900 and the town grew from there.

The Night the Lights Went Out in Ada

The Old West and twentieth-century technology intersected at 2:00 a.m. on April 19, 1909, when suddenly Adas electric grid and telephone system went dead. A mob led by some of the towns most respected citizens had cut off power and communication and then proceeded in the dark to the county jail, where four murder suspects lay asleep in their cells. The vigilantes easily took charge of prisoners, ordered them to dress, and marched them to the nearby vacant Frisco Livery Stable where they were hanged from the rafters. They had been accused of killing popular Ada resident A. A. Gus Bobbitt, a rancher and deputy US marshal. Later that day Justice of the Peace H. J. Brown ruled that Joe Allen, B.B. Burrwell, Jim Miller, and Jesse West came to their deaths by strangulation by a rope tied around their necks administered by the hands of unknown persons. Of the four accused, the best known was Miller, a professional hit man known for or suspected of killing a dozen people. A religious man despite his violent occupation, Miller did not fight for his life. All he asked was that his hat be placed on his head after he was gone. After the four quit kicking, someone obliged his final request.

The frame structure on Main Street where the mass lynching occurred has long since been razed and the old Pontotoc County courthouse and jail were replaced in 1926. But in 1997, the Oklahoma Outlaw and Lawman Association (now defunct) placed a shiny black granite marker on private property not far from the scene of the quadruple hanging. Engraved at the bottom of the marker, beneath 119 words describing the lynching, is the notation that it had been erected As a memorial to the end of the Old West and the struggle for law and order. There it stood, to the annoyance of many locals who would just as soon not have Ada remembered for a lynching, until it was placed in storage in 2009. In 2015 the marker was moved to the Box X Cemetery (5251 County Road 1470; GPS coordinates: N34 51.37, W96 48.37), 9.2 miles northwest of Ada.

In the 1870s a buffalo hunter named Frazer hollowed out a dugout near Bitter Creek in what was then Greer County, Texas. He left when the buffalo did, but a small community that bore his name remained in the vicinity of his dugout. When a flood swept over the settlement in 1891, a new town was laid out on higher ground. Someone familiar with Latin suggested the place be called Altus, meaning high. The town grew as a railroad and agricultural center, with cotton-growing initially driving the economy. Altus has six buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Western Cattle Trail from Texas to Dodge City entered Oklahoma at Doans Crossing in Jackson County. Some nineteen million cattle splashed across the river at this point until the crossing was abandoned in 1895. The Museum of the Western Prairie (1100 Memorial Dr., Altus; 580-482-1044) covers the full range of southwest Oklahomas history, including the story of this old cattle highway. A historical marker summarizing the history of the Western Trail stands just off US 62, two miles east of Altus. Another historical marker is located southwest of Tipton on County Road East 159.

An Indian agency opened in 1871 north of what would become Anadarko, but thirty years passed before the city came into being. That happened when the various Indian reservations surrounding the agency were opened to white settlement. As with the previous, larger-scale land openings in Oklahoma, lots became available on a set day, which for Anadarko was August 6, 1901. In anticipation of the land auction, in which no one could buy more than one business and one residential lot, twenty thousand people showed up. By December only three thousand or so remained in the new town, but it grew into an agricultural trading center.

Seven tribes have their headquarters in the Anadarko area and two museums focus on Native American culture: Southern Plains Indian Museum and Craft Center (715 East Central Blvd.; 405-247-6221) and the National Hall of Fame for Famous American Indians (851/901 East Central Blvd.; 405-247-5555).

One of the Wests more interestingly named museums is also located in Anadarko: The Philomathic Museum (311 East Main St.; 405-247-3240). Dating from 1935, when women of the Anadarko Philomathic Club began working to establish a local history museum, the collection has been housed in the old Rock Island Railroad depot since 1975. (A philomath is someone who enjoys learning, as in a person who would be curious to know the definition of philomathic, the adjective used to describe the enjoyment of learning.)

Until shortly before the Santa Fe Railroad came through in 1887, the area around what would become Ardmore was open range land in the Chickasaw Nation. The only structure was the 700 Ranch headquarters. But the railroad changed all that. First in tents, then in frame buildings, businesses popped up near the tracks to cater to railroad men, travelers, and the Chickasaw people. A fire in 1895 wiped out much of the town, but it was rebuilt with mostly brick buildings. In the early twentieth century, Ardmore boomed as an oil town.

The career of one of the Wild Wests most notorious outlaws, Bill Dalton, ended near Ardmore on June 8, 1894. Thats about the only undisputed fact about what happened that day. At first, many found it hard to believe that Dalton had been killed at all. Of course, some newspaper readers could be forgiven for being a bit skeptical of the news. After all, Dalton had been reported dead or dying three times previously after encounters with law enforcement. But after the outlaws widow formally identified his body, and his corpse went on display at a funeral home in Ardmore, most folks accepted that his run had finally ended. But there was still the matter of who killed him. The historical marker at the site of the shootout says deputy US Marshal Selden Lindsey fatally shot Dalton when he resisted arrest. But Caleb Loss Hart, another deputy US marshal who was there that day, claimed he killed Dalton, not Lindsey. It should be noted that the historical marker later erected at the site of the shooting was paid for by Harrell McCullough (19131999), grandson of Selden Lindsey.

The shooting took place on a farm west of the small community of Elk, now known as Poolville. The site is 6.2 miles north of State Highway 53 off Poolville Road. From I-35 take exit 42 to State Highway 53, and travel 12.8 miles to Poolville Road. Turn right (north) and follow to the marker.

Pat Garrett of Billy the Kid fame was not the only notable Wild West sheriff with that last name. In Carter County, Buck Garrett (18711929) had a long and distinguished career as a lawman, as Ardmore police chief from 1905 to 1910 and sheriff from 1910 to 1922. He seldom carried a gun. Considering the record of his longtime deputy

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