New Jersey State of Mind
New Jersey State of Mind
Peter Genovese
Rutgers University Press
New Brunswick, Camden, and Newark, New Jersey, and London
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Genovese, Peter, 1952 author.
Title: New Jersey state of mind / Peter Genovese.
Description: New Brunswick : Rutgers University Press, 2020. | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2019034604 | ISBN 9781978803909 (hardcover) | ISBN 9781978803916 (epub) | 9781978803930 (web pdf) | ISBN 9781978803923 (mobi)
Subjects: LCSH: New JerseyDescription and travel.
Classification: LCC F134.6 .G465 2020 | DDC 917.49dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019034604
A British Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs by the author
Copyright 2020 by Peter Genovese
All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the publisher. Please contact Rutgers University Press, 106 Somerset Street, New Brunswick, NJ 08901. The only exception to this prohibition is fair use as defined by U.S. copyright law.
www.rutgersuniversitypress.org
Contents
I live, breathe, even dream New Jersey. In the past 35 years, I have driven a million and a half miles around the state for stories, first for the Home News (later the Home News Tribune) in Central Jersey and, for the past 20 years, for the Star-Ledger and nj.com.
Ive written thousands of stories and seven books about the Garden State. The latter include Jersey Diners, Roadside New Jersey, and The Jersey Shore Uncovered: A Revealing Season on the Beach for Rutgers University Press and Food Lovers Guide to New Jersey for Globe Pequot Press. At some point, I have written something about all 565 municipalities in the state, plus countless towns and villages.
I know New Jersey.
Not New Jersey politics or sports or community news but New Jersey as a place. Every nook and cranny and corner. And I know how to get there without a GPS, which you will never find in my Jeep.
Which brings us to this book. Its inspired by a series that appeared in the Star-Ledger beginning in October 2010 called Jersey State of Mind. This is what I wrote in the introductory piece:
The stories will take you all over Jersey, celebrating the state in all its variety and diversity, illuminating corners you never visited, or knew existed. The real Jersey, not the cliched, stereotypical or rose-tinted one.
The resulting stories had a strong sense of place, with detail that put you on the scene. Most of the stories were written by the reporters in the papers features department, of which I was a part. When it came time to pitch this book to Rutgers University Press, I talked about that sense of place, that celebration of the state in all its variety and diversity. Props to Peter Mickulas, executive editor at Rutgers University Press, for being excited about this project right from the beginning.
For this book, I spent months combing the state for good stories, those that would reveal New Jerseys uniqueness, diversity, and specialness. Profiles of interesting people and places, stories that would speak to the character and sometimes gritty charm of this state. This is not the Chamber of Commerces or the state Division of Travel and Tourisms version of New Jersey, just real everyday Jersey. None of the stories have previously appeared in the Star-Ledger or on nj.com.
Do these chapters tell the entire story of New Jersey? No, of course not. But I think they reveal more of this state as it is today than any other bookand certainly more than my other books. There are no politicians or high-profile or important people in this book, just everyday folks who contribute to the diverse fabric that is New Jersey.
Youll meet a female craft brewer, the captain of the states official tall ship, demolition derby drivers, a Food Network personality, the owners of a legendary Italian ice stand, the disc jockeys at the nations largest South Asian radio station, the owner of an old-fashioned amusement park, the makers of a strange and wonderful elixir called Boost!, and the folks who monitor traffic on the Garden State Parkway and New Jersey Turnpike.
Among many others.
If this book is fun and vibrant and colorful, its because of them. Thanks to all of them for letting me tell their stories. No state has been more mocked, misunderstood, and maligned than New Jersey, as Ive long maintained. This is one attempt to correct those misconceptions. If youre from here, I hope this book will introduce you to a New Jersey youre not familiar with.
If youre from elsewhere, here is my message: this is what were about.
Midmorning, Hackensack River, and no-see-ums are picnicking on my right arm. Im thinking, Didnt the instructions emailed earlier in the week say I shouldnt worry about bugs? Im in the fabled swamps of North Jersey, about to take a cruise of sorts through New Jerseys most unlikely urban wilderness. The Meadowlands32 square miles and 8,500 acres of water, marsh, and open space four miles from Manhattan.
Ever hike or boat through it? Didnt think so.
Im at River Barge Park & Marina in Carlstadt, on the other side of the New Jersey Turnpike from MetLife Stadium, about to take one of the eco-cruises run by Hackensack Riverkeeper. Most of the organizations river cruises launch from Laurel Hill Park in Secaucus. Today, we depart from River Barge Park, reached by a bumpy dirt road that includes a dilapidated-looking but still-functioning boat club that doesnt appear on Google Maps. Well be heading upriver first, Bill Sheehan tells the passengers on one of Hackensack Riverkeepers pontoon boats. Lots of stuff going on. Keep your binoculars ready, your bazookashe looks at a birder with a camera lens nearly as long as a baseball bator whatever you call them.
Ah, the rock n roll vampire speaks.
Thats how he describes his teens and early 20s, when he played the drums in a series of bands, including Gretchen, Crayon, and Casper. Never heard of them? Me neither.
Youd get up at three in the afternoon and not get to sleep until six the next morning, he recalls. I was out six, seven nights a week, rocking and rolling. I was not getting rich; I was not getting dead. He left the music business with his soul intact when disco appeared; he refused to play the monotonous drone disco required.
Bill, Bill, Bill! shouts Bazooka Guy. The peregrine [falcon] is under the bridge.
Indeed it is, Sheehan replies. He sports an earring in his left ear and a big bushy mustache and wears a tiki shirt resplendent with parrots and toucans, shark-dotted white shorts, and a cap that says Make America Green Again. A Peterson Field Guide is stuffed into a corner of the boat dashboard. He was born to be on the waterhis father, Frank, was a barge captain; his grandfather, a dock foreman. But not right away. He spent 10 years as a cab driver. One day, he was watching a fishing show on ESPN; there was a short segment on the San Francisco Baykeeper.
I saw the image of this guy in a rowboat, paddling between these huge tankers, writing down registration numbers, Sheehan recalls. I thought, How can I get a job like that? I was intrigued by someone representing an entire ecosystem.