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Sierra Adare - Jackson Hole Uncovered

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This ruggedly beautiful area is a haven for hikers, horsepackers, rock climbers, and Western history enthusiasts. Outdoor sports for every season are found here, from snow skiing to river running, fishing to ice climbing. With this book as your guide, explore the legends and lives of the Holes most illustrious and notorious characters. Stroll the historic streets fo the old town. Stop by the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and the Viginian Saloon. Tour the Grizzly Discovery Center and the Nationals Wildlife Art Museum. First-time visitors and old-timers alike will be entertained and elightened as they discover and rediscover this unique part of America.

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Jackson Hole
UNCOVERED
Sierra Adare

Jackson Hole Uncovered - image 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Adare, Sierra.

Jackson Hole uncovered / Sierra Adare.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 1-55622-484-2 (pbk.)

1. Jackson Hole (Wyo.)Guidebooks. 2. Jackson Hole (Wyo.)

History. I. Title.

F767.T28A33 1996

917.8755--dc20

96-446

CIP

Copyright 1997, Sierra Adare

All Rights Reserved

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means
without permission in writing from Wordware Publishing, Inc.

Printed in the United States of America

ISBN 1-55622-484-2

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

9610

All inquiries for volume purchases of this book should be addressed to Wordware Publishing, Inc., at 1506 Capital Avenue, Plano, Texas 75074.
Telephone inquiries may be made by calling:

(214) 423-0090

Contents
Dedication

To Candy Moulton for sharing her love of Jackson Holes history with me, answering countless questions, fun research tripsand, especially, for including me in the family gatherings at the Moulton Barn.

For Everyone who loves history and its relationship to the present and future. And for lovers of nature who walk on the wild side of life.

For Carolyn, Gwen, and C.W.

Acknowledgements

Several people went well out of their way to help gather information for Jackson Hole Uncovered and deserve more thanks than I can possibly say. Among them are Renee Leitz and Larry Kammer of the Teton County Historical Society; Jeannie Cook and Lynn Houze of the Park County Historical Society Archives; Kimberly Valentine of the National Wildlife Art Museum; Ann Nelson, Jean Brainard, and Lavaughn Breshnahan of the Wyoming State Museum; Robert Schiller, Chief Division of Science and Natural Resource Management, and Melody Webb, Assistant Superintendent, at Grand Teton National Park; James M. Griffin, Assistant Refuge Manager of Education and Visitor Services, National Elk Refuge; Jesse OConnor, Sara Flitner and Karen A. Connelly of the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, and Virginia Wakefield. A BIG THANK YOU to Sheila Bricker-Wade and her staff at the Wyoming State Historical Preservation Office.

Very special thanks to Candy Moulton for the wealth of Jackson Hole information (and all the rest) she supplied for me, Andy Breffeilh, Chris and Denny Becker, Carolyn Lampman, and to everyone who responded to my letters, phone calls, and endless questions!

Western Writers of America, the greatest writing organization in the world, deserves a big thanks, too. Also, Mike and Kathy Gear, Mike Blakely, Tom Knowles, Gwen Petersen, Bob Wiseman, Sharon Niederman, Norm Zollinger, and Dusty Richards for the laughter, great conversations, good food and music (especially the B5 CD and Mike Blakelys Ride the River).

Lastly, thank you Mel Gibson for making Braveheart, but thats a whole other story!

Introduction
Jackson Hole: The Microcosm of the West and Its Hollywood Image

Unfortunately, language lacks the words to sufficiently describe the intensity of the Tetonsthe very symbol of Jackson Hole. The valley rests in the bosom (pun intended) of the mountains. Maybe the name Tetons comes from more than just some female-companion-starved French trappers viewing the range and being reminded of womens breasts (which is where the Tetons obtained the name that stuck). Perhaps that cherished feeling struck the trappers as much as it does most people who come to Jackson Holeevery time they come. Something brings the estimated 2.5 million visitors annually. Of course, being on the doorstep of two diverse national parks, Yellowstone and Grand Teton, has something to do with it. But the communities on the edge of these natural wonders radiate their own brand of magic.

Of late, the media has latched onto phrases about the Aspenization of Jackson Hole. Ask longtime residents, recent emigrants, and visitors who have returned to the area over a period of years (like migrating birds) and youll receive responses along the lines of maybe it appears that way, but not really.

Granted, Jackson is a tourist town. No doubt about it. Practically since the end of the fur-trading era, the valley has relied heavily on tourism. Up until recently, businesses wooed it with the single-mindedness of a bull elk during the rut. (If you get the chance to take advantage of visiting during autumn and are lucky enough to witness the elk mating season in all its splendor of bugling and courtship, youll realize this comparison is by no means a slam.) Nowadays, the focus leans towards extending the summer and winters heights of visitation into the slower periods of October-November and March-May.

Downtown Jackson Photo Credit Sierra Adare Tourists wandering around the town - photo 2

Downtown Jackson

Photo Credit: Sierra Adare

Tourists wandering around the town square only pick up Jackson Holes surface impression. Comments range from quaintsy touristy to tourist trap extraordinaire to it looks more like a Hollywood set than a real place. But these people seldom experience the reality of Jackson Hole. Strip away all the tourist trappings and youll find an authentic western town, going about the exact same businesses it has for more than the past century.

The idea of packing in the dudes to see the sights, wander the wilderness, taste chuckwagon cooking, and bringing money to the area hatched in Jackson Hole back in the late 1800s. Cowpokes punched cattle from the valleys earliest homesteading days, and some of their descendants still do. Long before skiing became THE winter sport, the town boasted Wyomings first ski resort. So, the tourist traps have been around since the days when visitors arrived on horseback or via the mail stage. This suggests that the fake image is anything but! Judge for yourself.

Jackson or Jackson Hole. Whats the Difference?

Over in the northwest section of the state of Wyoming, just south of Yellowstone, the countrys first national park, rests a valley approximately eighty miles long by fifteen miles widea small hollow encompassed by mountains. Back in the early 1800s, fur trappers referred to such high mountain valleys as holes, hence the name Jackson Hole. Technically, this name applies to the entire area; however, Jacksonites (as well as all Wyomingites) tend to call the town Jackson Hole, too. Teton County as a whole also gets included in this reference.

How Much Do You Really
Know About Jackson Hole?
Test Your Knowledge

1. What did Grace Miller have to do with the town of Jackson?

A. She platted the actual townsite.

B. She located the town for Jackson.

C. She became Jacksons first woman mayor.

D. All of the above.

2. What does the term Dukurkant refer to?

A. A herd of bighorn sheep that only live at high altitude.

B. A fur traders expression for beaver trapping in the Mad River.

C. An early name for Jackson Hole.

D. A tribe of Indians known for the type of meat they ate.

3. What should you never forget to wear in Jackson Hole?

A. Longjohns

B. Sun block

C. A cowboy hat

D. A wildlife T-shirt

4. How did Mrs. OLearys cow change William Henry Jacksons photography career?

A. The Chicago Fire destroyed all of the negatives of the first photos taken in Yellowstone shot by Jacksons competitor.

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