Matt Burbach - Gym Climbing: Maximizing Your Indoor Experience
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- Book:Gym Climbing: Maximizing Your Indoor Experience
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* Explains how to get started and advance your skills at the local climbing gym
* Author is a pioneering instructor and gym climbing course developer
* Key exercises reinforce fundamental skills, illustrated in sequential photos
Gym climbing has evolved into a sport in its own right and Matt Burbach has been there to spur it on. He established, developed, and directed the Indoor Climbing School of Earth Treks Climbing Center in Maryland, at the time the largest climbing gym on the east coast. Now he presents the same techniques and training exercises honed by coaching hundreds of climbers.
Burbach covers all aspects of indoor rock climbing in detail, including what to look for in a gym, analysis of equipment and how it works, proper top-rope systems management, and movement technique. More advanced indoor climbers will appreciate chapters on topics such as indoor leading, performance, competition climbing, and bouldering. For outdoor rock climbers now training in gyms, this guide aids the reverse transition from climbing on real rock to pulling on plastic. Throughout, Burbach not only demonstrates the proper techniques and skills, but goes one step further to explain why those practices are better.
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Acknowledgments
There are countless people who made this project possible. Without Earth Treks' Climbing Centers, I never would have had the opportunity to work with such a great staff and eager students who have helped mold my experiences as an instructor and climber. Thank you to all the students who have given me the opportunity to help them better their understanding of climbing, as well as mine.
Many thanks to Bill Pelkey, Brad Dorough, Doug Madara, Leigh Saunders, Russ Clune, and LaSportiva for their friendship and support throughout my climbing endeavors. Thank you also to Adrian Ballinger, Brad Mering, Charlotte Jouette, Chris Nance, Chris Warner, Dave Hudson, Eric J. Horst, Mary Metz, Mike Wolfert, S. Peter Lewis, Sam Hanks, Sue Borchardt, and particularly my editor, Julie Van Pelt, for your contributions to this book. To my dad, I finally see the value in rewriting all those sentences when I was a kid.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
| Matt Burbach has been a climbing instructor since 1995. He was the founding editor of Urban Climber Magazine, and his writings have been published in Gripped and Climbing. He established, developed, and directed the indoor climbing school at Earth Treks' Climbing Centers in Maryland, the largest climbing gyms on the East Coast. Matt has worked in the climbing industry as an instructor, competitor, tech rep, visual merchandiser, and lead organizer of the Petzl, Roc Comp and Smackdown competitions. He is a graduate of the University of Maryland's College of Health and Human Performance and continues to coach climbers on an individual basis. Matt currently lives in the San Francisco Bay area. |  |
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Available at fine bookstores and outdoor stores, by phone at 800-553-4453 or on the Web at www.mountaineersbooks.org
CHAPTER 1
Indoor Climbing
Climbing is a unique activity that people of different abilities and ages can enjoy together. It takes us out of our normal horizontal world and into a vertical environment that is physically demanding and mentally challenging. Some climbers choose to reach high peaks of the world, like the summit of Mount Everest. Others enjoy climbing at the local rock faces after work with their friends. And still others choose to climb up frozen waterfalls. The avenues of climbing are extremely varied, each with its own unique environment, set of technical skills, and physical demands.
Gym climbing, climbing indoors on fabricated climbing-wall structures, is the fastest growing aspect of climbing. There are several hundred indoor climbing gyms in the United States and Europe and that number is constantly on the rise. Ask gym climbers why they choose to climb indoors and a typical response is because it's fun. The attraction stems from the physical, mental, and even social benefits that gym climbing provides.
Indoor climbing challenges both the body and the mind. Although climbing may be perceived as an upper bodyintensive activity that develops Herculean shoulders and Popeye forearms, every major muscle group in the body contributes to climbing's physical demands. Tough climbs done even with good technique can leave your whole body sore the next day. The full-body aspect of climbing not only develops muscle stabilization and increases strength, but also can improve your joint flexibility and range of motion. And the physical aspect of climbing is just a tip of the iceberg.
Climbing is as much a cerebral activity as it is physical. The excitement comes from the problem-solving skills needed to figure out a particular movement and then actually complete that move. You have to anticipate what hold you want to grab next or how to shift your weight over your feet. The 20 feet of air under your feet as you lunge for the next hold can provide a feeling that no other activity can. The satisfaction after grabbing the hold is unparalleled, too. Climbing demands complete focus on the task at hand, clearing the mind of daily distractions.
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