Mobråten Martin Mobraten - The Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises : Technique and strength training for climbing

PHOTO: SIGRID BAUMBERGER
Jarl Gsvr taking in the view from Vesteggen (the West Ridge) on Stetind, Norway.

MARTIN MOBRTEN & STIAN CHRISTOPHERSEN
THE CLIMBING BIBLE: PRACTICAL EXERCISES

Translated by Bjrn Stnan

First published in Norwegian in 2020 under the title Klatrebibelen Praktiske velser by Klatreboka AS.
This English edition first published in 2022 by Vertebrate Publishing. This English digital edition first published in 2022 by Vertebrate Publishing.

The authors have received support from the Norwegian Non-Fiction Writers and Translators Association.

Vertebrate Publishing
Omega Court, 352 Cemetery Road, Sheffield S11 8FT, United Kingdom.
www.v-publishing.co.uk

Copyright Martin Mobrten and Stian Christophersen 2022.
Foreword copyright Cecilie Skog 2022.

Front cover: Hannah Midtb bouldering at Oslo Klatresenter, Oslo, Norway. Photo: Brd Lie Henriksen.
Photography by Brd Lie Henriksen unless otherwise credited.

Martin Mobrten and Stian Christophersen have asserted their rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as authors of this work.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN: 9781839811043 (Paperback)
ISBN: 9781839811050 (Ebook)

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All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems without the written permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to obtain the necessary permissions with reference to copyright material, both illustrative and quoted. We apologise for any omissions in this respect and will be pleased to make the appropriate acknowledgements in any future edition.

Klatrebibelen Praktiske velser editorial:
Editor: Elisabet Skrberg.
Photographer: Brd Lie Henriksen.
Design and layout: Jon Tore Modell.
English translation: Bjrn Stnan.

Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of the information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the advice offered in this guidebook.

Climbing is an activity that carries a risk of personal injury or death. Participants must be aware of and accept that these risks are present and they should be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Nobody involved in the writing and production of this guidebook accepts any responsibility for any errors that it may contain, or are they liable for any injuries or damage that may arise from its use. All climbing is inherently dangerous and the fact that individual descriptions in this volume do not point out such dangers does not mean that they do not exist. Take care.

PHOTO: RYAN WATERS
FOR MANY YEARS I DIDNT TRAIN, I JUST CLIMBED. IT TOOK YEARS FOR ME TO REALISE I HAD TO TRAIN TO IMPROVE.

FOREWORD BY CECILIE SKOG

IM RELISHING THE sound of metallic jingle jangle as I cram the 14 quickdraws into my backpack, where the rope is already waiting. I remove the now flat sandwich I forgot to eat earlier, and replace it with my shoes and chalk bag which lets out one last puff of dust for the day. I cinch my backpack up tight and blow on my sore fingertips. My skin has worn thin after numerous attempts. Next time, I think to myself as I throw the backpack on to my shoulders. Next time Ill send it.

The backpack feels lighter than on the way in. So do my feet. And head, I think. Thoughts of this and that have been replaced by moves and movements. A warm sense of community reminds me of who I am. My body is tired and numb. The world is weightless and anything is possible. Next time.

And to think, I dont need to climb sky-high or haul a sled to the end of the world to experience this feeling of trembling satisfaction. The feeling of spring, and the onset of an everlasting summer. I dont even need the euphoria of being newly in love. What is it with climbing? Why should this activity come with a red warning label: Highly addictive. Why do we get so addicted?

For many years I didnt train, I just climbed. It took years for me to realise I had to train to improve. I learned how to warm up, and I got pushed outside of my comfort zone provoking reactions like What? Im going to lead a hard route without first practising it on a top rope? What if I fall? Falling on lead could at that time be classified as my greatest fear. Perhaps only second to spiders. With a mouth full of sand I trembled upwards, quickdraw after quickdraw, and somewhere along the way I took my first fall on lead. I let out a primal scream, but was laughing hysterically on the inside. My fears drifted out from my ears like smoke from a peace pipe. It was liberating.

I decided on my first goal as a sport climber. My goal was to climb Norwegian grade 8- (approx. French 7b). But more importantly, to climb 8- before Aleksander Gamme. On a crisp autumn day, after lots of training, trying and failing, I finally sent Prosessen, 7+/8- (approx. French 7a+) at Hauktjern. I raised the flag and thought I had won this very serious competition, but I was disqualified by Aleksander, as the route and grade were scrutinised, evaluated and found to be too easy. The grade couldnt just involve the right number, it should be solely comprised of it. Period. To win the competition he resorted to the dirtiest trick in the book. He got me pregnant. Twice! He sent many 8- routes, and it was while losing my voice cheering him on that I realised I was not going to be better than him, nor anybody else. My goal will always be to become better than myself.