Gives an absolutely spot-on sense of rural life in a changing Transylvania, with cutting insights and a wry sense of humour.
Tim Burford, Author, The Rough Guide to Romania
The modern world is turning rural Romania upside down and inside out. Mike Ormsby captures well the agony and ecstasy of this transition. With an ear for local vernacular and the surreal dialogue of the Gypsies and a quirky eye for detail, it is a book to make you smile, but also sigh for the old days, and old ways, and wonder at the havoc the modern world has wreaked in these remote country communities.
William Blacker, Author, Along The Enchanted Way
This isnt your usual sentimental year-in-the-sticks-abroad book. Ormsby knows Romania and writes with an insiders knowledge. Poignant, immediate, always original, he is the perfect guide to this entrancing countrys strange social rituals. Romania is as fortunate to have found him as he is to have made a life there.
Robin Ashenden, Central and Eastern European London Review
Mike Ormsby addresses the challenges, absurdities, and everyday drama of life in rural Romania with a deep and sincere understanding. His wit and humour are alive and kicking, coupled with a zeal for storytelling, a poetic sense of what is right, and a profound respect for people he meets.
Colin Shaw, Founder & Tour Guide, www.roving-romania.co.uk
Domnul Mike has done it again, writing yet another book that we wished that we had written ourselves. His gift appears to be his unbounded willingness to talk to people, find things out and deal with any situation he finds himself in, no matter how ridiculous. Sublime.
Craig Turp, Editor, Bucharest in Your Pocket
An excellent blend of dialogue, wit, and subtle irony. These lovely stories invite us to ponder the clash of nature and culture, town and countryside, old and new beliefs and social practices, in present-day southern Transylvania.
Dr. Gabriela Colipca-Ciobanu, Associate Professor, Dunrea de Jos University
A truly enchanting read, giftedly written with ironic humour.
Christian Ivanes, Book Editor, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca
Thanks to the authors healthy sense of humour, I read this with a smile. Welcome to Culmea: life is simple yet complicated, no traffic jams, no city noise, you know your neighbours, and stray dogs find homes. I enjoyed it all, even the tough bits.
Alina Vancia, News Presenter, Digi FM
2017, Mike Ormsby, @OrmsbyMike, www.mikeormsby.net
2017, Nicoaro Books, @NicoaroBooks, www.nicoarobooks.com
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or otherwise, without written permission from the author.
ISBN Print edition: 978-606-93902-7-6
ISBN Create Space edition: 978-1973896142
Cover design by Sorin Sorasan, www.sorinsorasan.com
DTP by Victor Jalb-oimaru, www.prodtp.ro
Author photo by Cosmin Bumbu
Table of Contents
These stories may contain nuts
Acknowledgements
Thank you, Angela Nicoar, for editing and insight.
Thank you, Emanuela JalbaSoimaru and Carmen Stanila, for proofreading. Typos are inevitable, but Im eternally grapefruit.
Thank you, friends and neighbours in Transylvania, Romania, for sharing your wit, wisdom, and palinca.
Mike Ormsby
Transylvania
7.7.17
For Romanians and Romaniaphiles everywhere
for thou hast pined
And hungerd after Nature, many a year,
In the great City pent
S.T. Coleridge
Transylvania is located in central Romania.
The region is known for its beautiful rural landscapes and rich history.
Transylvania is often associated with vampires, but dont let that worry you.
The Lovely Linda
Youre back with us in Bucharest, Domnul Mike? The cleaning lady waddles towards me in the lobby of the apartment block, pushing her trolley of buckets and brushes. Her flip-flops slap a welcome on the tiles as she approaches. Did you press the button for the lift?
Yes, Doamna Tina, it should be here soon. How are you?
Not bad, thanks for asking. Hows Doamna Angela?
Fine, thanks. Shes upstairs in our flat.
We step into the lift and Tina pokes the control panel. She looks tired and much older than the last time we met. Just over four years ago? Her hands are pale, almost transparent. Must be all those buckets of soapy water. She reaches out to steady a nervous mop.
So, where are you these days, Domnul Mike?
Azerbaijan, until last week. We just moved back to Romania. How are things in the block?
Same as ever, here.
We rise through the floors and an awkward silence descends. Nothing like a small elevator for accentuating big differences. I stare at the stainless steel door and spot a familiar graffito gouged into it: Suck me, Vlaicu. Its still here after all these years. So much for our esteemed Administrator, but thats democracy, I suppose.
How long are you two staying in Bucharest? says Tina.
Not long, were moving to Transylvania. Bought a house.
Oh, I see. So, that means youll have a garden?
Quite a big one.
Then why not take Linda?
Linda who?
Linda who lives in the car park.
I beg your pardon?
Lindas a dog. Look. Tina pulls out her scuffed Nokia and shows me a photo of a scary dog with a black face and stern gaze. Shes a beauty, Domnul. See how alert! Make a good guard dog. Her dad was a Rottweiler. Youll need a dog. Do you have one?
No, although we are thinking about it. I want a local sheepdog, a Ciobnesc with a thick coat for the cold winters.
You should take Linda, everybody here loves her.
In that case, why has nobody here adopted her?
Lindas too big for these little flats, she needs to be outside.
The bell pings and the elevator doors slide apart. Tina spots Angela stacking cardboard boxes in the corridor beyond and steps out with me. She gives my wife a welcoming hug and tells her about lovely Linda who lives in the car park and why we must adopt her.
Angela checks the photo. Linda looks a bit fierce, Tina.
Doamna Angela, trust me, shes a lovely dog. Ill take you to meet her if you like. But the sooner the better. Tina sounds sad.
How do you mean? says Angela.
The dogcatchers took her. Theyll kill her, any day now.
Kill Linda?
At the compound, its what they do. Wont you save her?
Angela looks at me and we know the answer. Bang goes my sheepdog.
Are you free to visit the compound tomorrow? says Angela.
Tina wipes tearful eyes on a sleeve. Ill take time off.
Great, thanks, Tina. Well go by taxi. Say, 9 a.m.?
Actually, I know a lady who might drive us.
Even better.
Nine sharp, Tina is waiting for us in the car park, dressed in a long grey anorak over a summer frock and red sandals. A skinny blonde stands nearby smoking a long cigarette and wearing a black trouser suit, black beret, silky green scarf, and big sunglasses. She looks French, as in Rsistance. What she doesnt look is happy. Tina introduces her. This is my friend Madeleine. Shell drive us to the dog pound.
Turns out La Madeleine lives in the next block, loves animals, and has rescued six street cats, some of whom appear to have slept on her beret. She jangles car keys above her head. Borrowed some wheels. Shall we? She beckons us and we obey, somewhat intrigued.
Catchers can be such horrible people, says Madeleine, striding on. They just grab any dog they can, doesnt matter what you say. I also rescued four terriers from this car park. They live on my land outside Bucharest. I would take Linda but shes too big. I hope shes still alive. I dread going to the compound, its terribly upsetting, I usually cry my eyes out. But any friend of Tinas is a friend of mine. She glances at the sky and frowns. Looks like rain. Heres the car. Hop in.
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