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Robert Curzon - Visits to Monasteries in the Levant

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From a Drawing made on the spot by Viscount Eastnor VIEW OF THE GREAT - photo 1
From a Drawing made on the spot by Viscount Eastnor.
VIEW OF THE GREAT MONASTERY OF METEORA, FROM THE MONASTERY OF BARLAAM, WITH THE RIVER PENEUS IN THE DISTANCE.
VISITS TO MONASTERIES
IN
THE LEVANT.
BY THE
HON BLE. ROBERT CURZON, J UN.
From a Sketch by R. Curzon.
Interior of the Court of a Greek Monastery. A monk is calling the congregation to prayer, by beating a board called the simandro () which is generally used instead of bells.
WITH NUMEROUS WOODCUTS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1849.
PREFACE.
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
I n presenting to the public another book of travels in the East, when it is already overwhelmed with little volumes about palm-trees and camels, and reflections on the Pyramids, I am aware that I am committing an act which requires some better excuse for so unwarrantable an intrusion on the patience of the reader than any that I am able to offer.
The origin of these pages is as follows:I was staying by myself in an old country-house belonging to my family, but not often inhabited by them, and, having nothing to do in the evening, I looked about for some occupation to amuse the passing hours. In the room where I was sitting there was a large book-case full of ancient manuscripts, many of which had been collected by myself, in various out-of-the-way places, in different parts of the world. Taking some of these ponderous volumes from their shelves, I turned over their wide vellum leaves, and admired the antiquity of one, and the gold and azure which gleamed upon the pages of another. The sight of these books brought before my mind many scenes and recollections of the countries from which they came, and I said to myself, I know what I will do; I will write down some account of the most curious of these manuscripts, and the places in which they were found, as well as some of the adventures which I encountered in the pursuit of my venerable game.
I sat down accordingly, and in a short time accumulated a heap of papers connected more or less with the history of the ancient manuscripts; at the desire of some of my friends I selected the following pages, and it is with great diffidence that I present them to the public. If they have any merits whatever, these must consist in their containing descriptions of localities but seldom visited in modern times; or if they refer to places better known to the general reader, I hope that the peculiar circumstances which occurred during my stay there, or on my journeys through the neighbouring countries, may be found sufficiently interesting to afford some excuse for my presumption in sending them to the press.
I have no further apology to offer. These slight sketches were written for my own diversion when I had nothing better to do, and if they afford any pleasure to the reader under the same circumstances, they will answer as much purpose as was intended in their composition.

CONTENTS.

EGYPT IN 1833.
NavarinoThe Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian FleetsAlexandriaAn Arab PilotIntense HeatScene from the Hotel WindowsThe Water-CarriersA ProcessionA Bridal PartyViolent mode of clearing the RoadSubmissive Behaviour of the PeopleAstonishing Number of DonkeysBedouin Arabs; their wild and savage appearanceEarly HoursVisit to the Pasha's Prime Minister, Boghos Bey; hospitable receptionKawasses and Chaoushes; their functions and powersThe YassakjisThe Minister's Audience ChamberWalmas; anecdote of his saving the life of Boghos Bey
Rapacity of the DragomansThe Mahmoudieh CanalThe Nile at AtfehThe muddy Waters of the NileRichness of the SoilAccident to the BoatmenNight SailingA CollisionA Vessel run downEscape of the CrewSolemn InvestigationFinal JudgmentCurious Mode of FishingTameness of the BirdsJewish MalefactorsMoving Pillar of SandArrival at CairoHospitable Reception by the Consul-General
National Topics of ConversationThe Rising of the Nile; evil effects of its rising too high; still worse consequences of a deficiency of its watersThe NilometerUniversal Alarm in August, 1833The Nile at length rises to the desired HeightCeremony of cutting the EmbankmentThe Canal of the KhalidjImmense Assemblage of PeopleThe State TentArrival of Habeeb EffendiSplendid Dresses of the OfficersExertions of the Arab WorkmenTheir Scramble for ParasAdmission of the WaterIts sudden IrruptionExcitement of the LadiesPicturesque Effect of large Assemblies in the East
Early Hours in the LevantCompulsory Use of Lanterns in CairoSeparation of the different Quarters of the CityCustom of sleeping in the open airThe Mahomedan Times of PrayerImpressive Effect of the Morning Call to Prayer from the MinaretsThe last Prayer-time, Al AssrBedouin Mode of ascertaining this HourAncient Form of the MosquesThe Mosque of Sultan HassanEgyptian Mode of "raising the Supplies"Sultan Hassan's Mosque the Scene of frequent ConflictsThe Slaughter of the Mameluke Beys in the Place of RoumayliEscape of one Mameluke, and his subsequent Friendship with Mohammed AliThe Talisman of CairoJoseph's Well and HallMohammed Ali's MosqueHis Residence in the CitadelThe HaremDegraded State of the Women in the East
Interview with Mohammed Ali PashaMode of lighting a Room in EgyptPersonal Appearance of the PashaHis Diamond-mounted PipeThe lost HandkerchiefAn unceremonious AttendantView of Cairo from the CitadelSite of Memphis; its immense extentThe Tombs of the CaliphsThe Pasha's MausoleumCostume of Egyptian LadiesThe Cobcob, or Wooden ClogMode of dressing the HairThe VeilMistaken Idea that the Egyptian Ladies are Prisoners in the Harem; their power of doing as they likeThe Veil a complete DisguiseLaws of the HaremA Levantine BeautyEastern MannersThe Abyssinian SlavesArab GirlsUgliness of the Arab Women when oldVenerable Appearance of the old MenAn Arab Sheick
Mohammed Bey, DefterdarHis Expedition to SenaarHis Barbarity and RapacityHis Defiance of the PashaStories of his Cruelty and TyrannyThe Horse-shoeThe Fight of the MamelukesHis cruel TreacheryHis Mode of administering JusticeThe stolen MilkThe Widow's CowSale and Distribution of the ThiefThe Turkish CharacterPleasures of a Journey on the NileThe CoptsTheir PatriarchsThe Patriarch of AbyssiniaBasileos BeyHis BoatAn American's choice of a Sleeping-place
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron LakesThe Desert of NitriaEarly Christian AnchoritesSt. Macarius of AlexandriaHis Abstinence and PenanceOrder of Monks founded by himGreat increase of the Number of ascetic Monks in the Fourth CenturyTheir subsequent decrease, and the present ruined state of the MonasteriesLegends of the DesertCapture of a LizardIts alarming escapeThe Convent of BaramousNight attacksInvasion of SanctuaryAncient Glass LampsMonastery of SourianiIts Library and Coptic MSS.The Blind Abbot and his Oil-cellarThe persuasive powers of RosoglioDiscovery of Syriac MSS.The Abbot's supposed treasure
View from the Convent WallAppearance of the DesertIts grandeur and freedomIts contrast to the Convent GardenBeauty and luxuriance of Eastern VegetationPicturesque Group of the Monks and their VisitorsThe Abyssinian MonksTheir appearanceTheir austere mode of LifeThe Abyssinian CollegeDescription of the LibraryThe mode of Writing in AbyssiniaImmense Labour required to write an Abyssinian bookPaintings and IlluminationsDisappointment of the Abbot at finding the supposed Treasure-box only an old BookPurchase of the MSS. and BooksThe most precious left behindSince acquired for the British Museum
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