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Sally Van Winkle Campbell - But Always Fine Bourbon: Pappy Van Winkle and the Story of Old Fitzgerald

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Sally Van Winkle Campbell But Always Fine Bourbon: Pappy Van Winkle and the Story of Old Fitzgerald

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BUT ALWAYS FINE BOURBON PAPPY VAN WINKLE AND THE STORY OF OLD FITZGERALD - photo 1

BUT ALWAYS
FINE BOURBON

PAPPY VAN WINKLE
AND THE STORY OF OLD FITZGERALD

SALLY VAN WINKLE CAMPBELL

1999

This book is dedicated to the family of Stitzel-Weller Distillery to all the - photo 2
This book is dedicated to the family of Stitzel-Weller Distillery to all the - photo 3
This book is dedicated to the family of Stitzel-Weller Distillery to all the men and women

Pat Allen, Ed Anderson, Harry Anthony, Flo Archibald, Millie Archibald, Carl Arnold, William Arnold, C. J. Asay, Frank Atkinson, Emmet Ballard, Irwin Barmore, Henry Beattie, Ellen E. Beldin, Charles Bennett, A. C. Berger, Jr., A. C. Berger, Sr., James Berger, Naomi Biddle, Jean Biegay, John Bischof, Scotty Bjurstrom, Marion Blair, Richard Blevins, Ron Blythe, Marion Bodeman, Lorna Bonds, Bill Boyd Evelyn Bratcher, Lewis Bratcher, Evelyn Brooks, Ollie Brooks, Clarence Brown, Fred Brown, S. R. Bruce, James Bryant, William Bunell, Alice Burger, James Berger, Virginia Burger, Floyd Burk, George Busch, Robert Bush, James Butt, Albert Button, James Callaghan, Chester Caster, Bill Cashman, Jesse M. Cecil, Dave Charmoli, Bill Cherry, Ronnie Childress, Kathy Chilton, Willie Clemons, Spike Clines, Dorothy Cockerill, James Coleman, James G. Conn, Charles Cook, John F. Cooper, Andy Corcoran, William Cory, Spider Cunningham, C. A. Curry, Gerald M. Dailey, Kenneth Lee Davis, Red Davis, Gayle Dean, Joseph S. Deiss, Bill Denison, Thilma Denny, Edward Deters, Jake Dillman, James Downey, Mary Dienes, Freddy Dotson, Ninna Driskell, Dorothy Duffy, Joe Dugan, GarthDunn,FrankDurkalski, Eldridge Edwards, Leroy Eldridge, William Ellison, Faye M. Engleman, Herb Esch, Alice M. Evans, Charles E. Evans, Harvey Ewall, E. P. Farmer, Alex T. Farnsley, Charles Farris, John E. Fearon, Dorothy Federspiel, Helen Fielden, George Fielder, JoAnn Fowler, Joe Fraber, Patricia Franklin, Irma Fust, Joseph Gardner, G. E. Gauss, Helen Geiser, Earl Gist, Matt Goetz, Ed Goff, Hamilton Goff, Katherine Gokey, Donald Gootee, John Gordon, Diane Greene, Joan Greenwell, Kenneth E. Gregg Jr., Aileen Guenther, Alvin Guenther, Madelyn Marie Hagan, Joseph Hall, Dale Hamilton, Louis Hammerle, Willie Hamilton, George Hans, Bill Hardy, O. D Harris, Carl S. Harrold, Don Harrington, Henry Harrington, Clyde Hatfield, Roy Hawes, Norman Hayden, R. E. Head, William Head, Nina M. Heinz, M. J. Herl, Jr. , Kenny Hild, Vonda Hild, Leo Hillerich, John Hines, Don Hoffhaus, Roma Hogan, James Holmes, John Holzknecht, Paul J. Hopson, Charles Horsley, Peter P. Houlihan, Don Hutchason, Glen Hutchins, Mary Helen Hyland, Don Hynes, C. J. Ifson, Louis Jarosch, Leonard Jeffries, Amy Jennings, Flora Jerome, Ralph Joachim, E. W. Johnson, Martha Johnson, Rosalie Johnson, W. E. Johnson, Ruth Justice, Carol Kappesser, Ethel Kappesser, Martha Keith, Don Kendall, Yasir Khammash, Leah Kiley, Adele Klundt, Violet Braden Knott, Billy Pence Koch, David Kreid, William Kremer, George Kuhn, Jerry Kunze, Georgeanne Lanier, Oscar Lantz, Robert E. Lee, Clyde Leeth, Jack Lincoln, Charles Lobb, Henry Logsdon, Harold Lucas, Jan A. Lynch, Reginald Mackey, Arnie Maddox, Edward Malone, David Matton, Edward Marfilius, Calvin Mauch, Tom Morcum, Jane Mcadao, C. K. McClure, Bill McCormick, Will McGill, Bernie McGuire, Joseph Medley, Charlie Metzger, Robert Meurer, Rosemary Michaels, Janice Miles, Avery Mitchell, Etta Monroe, Lucille Moore, Mary Francis Moore, Put Moremen, Patsy Mudd, Jane Mullin, Constance Murphy, Robert Murray, Marie Nally, Edward J. Napali, Ella Nennstiel, Patricia Nieder, Frank E. Nolan, Walter Norman, Jimmy Northcraft, Michael Neumeister, Bill Osborne, Donna Owens, Dillard Owens, Bob Oyler, Jerry Pakenham, Ivan R. Parks, Bette Parrett, Richard Parrish, Thomas Paschal, Mary Patrick, Cullen Patterson, Dale Payton, James Peak, Carol Perry, Morgane Phelps, William Phillips, Jay Pickerill, Van Pickerill, Charlie Pipes, Beverly Poore, Helen Popham, James Powell, Dick Proctor, John Pryor, Ann Ray, Marguerette Ready, James Reister, Evelyn Reams, Barton Reutlinger, William Robinson, Jessie Rodgers, Tom Rollins, John Rooney, Vicki Ann Rose, Bobby Roution, Griffin Rucker, Herbert Rucker, Harold Rudolph, Kenneth Reiss, Linda Sagraves, Carolyn Salyen, Edward D. Sanders, William Sanders, Jr., Ron Sanford, Vic Sayre, Mary Jo Schnatterer, Charles Shetler, George Lee Schaber, Joseph Schildt, William Schneider, Henry M. Schoemann, John J. Schoemann, Bernie Schrembs, Henry F. Schroder, T. J. Schuff, Leo

For
Ward and Van,
Kitty and Julian,
Chenault and Mac
and
their children

PREFACE T he distillery was paradise to us We would turn the corner into - photo 4

PREFACE

T he distillery was paradise to us. We would turn the corner into Fitzgerald Roadsmall kids in a big car with our larger-than-life dadand right away the pungent odor of the whiskey shot through us and made us gasp. And the smell stayed in us the whole time we were there. Sometimes we caught a whiff of it way before the road, way before Shively. Turning left into Limestone Lane through ivy-covered stone pillars, there was a tiny guardhouse just to the right. No gatethe guard would just sort of wave us throughmore hello than anything.

Limestone Lane was lined with tall, beautiful oak trees. Long ago, Mr. Stitzel had said that someday those trees would alter the taste of the whiskey. And they would have, if he hadnt known all there was to know about making bourbon and prevented it from happening. Just behind the trees on the left stood quiet gray warehouses, rows of them, with their very Southern front porches and hundreds and hundreds of windows. The whiskey slept thereand got ready.

Often on Saturdays or Sundays, Dad would take us to the office with him. The office was Stitzel-Weller Distillery, our distillery, home of Old Fitzgerald bourbon. It had been founded by my grandfather, Julian Proctor Van Winkle, Sr., and Alex T. Farnsley and A. Ph. Stitzel. It opened on Derby Day, back in 1935.

In 1893, when my grandfather was nineteen years old, he had gone to work selling whiskey for a company called W. L. Weller and Sons. He soon became both secretary and treasurer of the famous old blending firm, and in later years, as its president, he was responsible for the connection between the house of Weller and A. Ph. Stitzel, Inc. In 1933, just as Prohibition was coming to an end, the two companies formally merged, and Stitzel-Weller Distillery was born. My grandfather was president of Stitzel-Weller for thirty-one years, until in 1964, at the age of ninety, he assumed the position of Senior Proprietor and passed the baton to his son, my father, Julian Proctor Van Winkle, Jr. Dad had already been with the company for some thirty-seven years, having started out rolling barrels during his teenage years and becoming vice president in 1945, upon his return from the Army.

For four decades, Stitzel-Weller Distillery thrived and was known for making the finest bourbon in the world. At its height, the company employed 220 people, was producing 800,000 cases of bourbon per year, and my grandfather had become one of the best known executives in the United States.

And then, on June 30, 1972, the company was soldgone.

I went back to the distillery on a warm, dark afternoon in January, 1994. The old place looked friendly, which was not what I had expected. I had been dreading this trip, knowing I would find the place desertedand depressing. As I turned my car into Fitzgerald Road, I hit the button to lower all the windows, and I breathed deeply. No smell. Turning left into Limestone Lane, I tried again. Nothing! But that was the worst of itafter that the trip got better.

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