Lucy McCauley - The Best Womens Travel Writing 2009: True Stories from Around the World

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Table of Contents

ACCLAIM FOR TRAVELERS TALES BOOKS BY AND FOR WOMEN

The Best Womens Travel Writing 2008

The authors here know how to spin a tale.

Body+Soul

The Best Womens Travel Writing 2007

Some of the best travel writingwell, writing, periodthis year lurks among the pages of The Best Womens Travel Writing 2007.

Dallas Morning News

100 Places Every Woman Should Go

Will ignite the wanderlust in any womaninspiring and delightful.

Lowell Thomas Awards judges citation, Best Travel Book 2007

Women in the Wild

A spiritual, moving and totally female book to take you around the world and back.

Mademoiselle

A Womans Path

A sensitive exploration of womens lives that have been unexpectedly and spiritually touched by travel experienceshighly recommended.

Library Journal

A Womans World

Packed with stories of courage and confidence, independence and introspection; if they dont inspire you to pack your bags and set out into the world, I cant imagine what would.

Self Magazine

A Womans Passion for Travel

Sometimes sexy, sometimes scary, sometimes philosophical and always entertaining.

San Francisco Examiner

Sand in My Bra

Bursting with exuberant candor and crackling humor.

Publishers Weekly

A Womans Europe

These stories will inspire women to find a way to visit places theyve only dreamed of.

The Globe and Mail

The World Is a Kitchen

A vicarious delight for the virtual tourist, as well as an inspiration for the most seasoned culinary voyager.

Mollie Katzen

Family Travel

Charming stories about taking the kids alongshould give courage to any wary mother who thinks she has to give up on her love of travel when she gives birth.

Chicago Herald

WOMENS TRAVEL LITERATURE FROM TRAVELERS TALES

100 Places Every Woman Should Go
100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go
The Best Womens Travel Writing 2008
The Best Womens Travel Writing 2007
The Best Womens Travel Writing 2006
The Best Womens Travel Writing 2005
Gutsy Women
Gutsy Mamas
Her Fork in the Road
Kite Strings of the Southern Cross
A Mile in Her Boots
Sand in My Bra
More Sand in My Bra
A Mothers World
Safety and Security for Women Who Travel
The Thong Also Rises
Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
Whose Panties Are These?
A Womans Asia
A Womans Europe
A Womans Passion for Travel
A Womans Path
A Womans World
A Womans World Again
Women in the Wild

TRAVELERS TALES

THE
BEST
WOMENS TRAVEL
WRITING 2009

TRUE STORIES
FROM AROUND THE WORLD

For my wise-women mentors
Susan Jampel,
Lonia Winchester,
and Helen Bacon Landry (1924-2007)

there isnt a train I wouldnt take,
No matter where its going.

EDNA ST. VINCENT MILLAY

Editors Preface

My family and I spent the better part of 2008 in Tbingen, southern Germany, where my husband, Charles, was on sabbatical. As I struggled with getting to know a new culture, place, and language, I learned that German has several words, in fact, for the verb to know. Like Spanish speakers, among other people, Germans use a different word if theyre talking about knowing a person (kennen), for example, as opposed to knowing a fact (wissen).

But it wasnt until near the end of our stay abroad, my language skills increasing little by little, that I learned yet another German nuance of to know. Begreifen means to grasp something, to take hold of itto understand, comprehend, embrace it. Significantly for me, begreifen is sometimes how Germans speak about knowing a place of coming to know it intimately, beyond where maps will take you, beyond the things that guidebooks can indicate. Yet it can also be understood as a way of letting ourselves be grasped by the possibilities of a moment, of being formed and informed by what we encounter.

By the time we left Tbingen, I realized I had come to know our temporary home, in the begreifen sense, by many means. I knew it through walks with my daughter, Hannah, who turned five there and attended a German kindergarten for seven months. One of our after-school rituals in that picturesque little university town was to visit the sheep and goats housed in a fenced-in shed nearby. We would save up our bread all week to feed them (that is, until the Bitte Nicht Fttern! sign appeared on the gateoops!). Or sometimes wed climb high to the top of the wide green hill near our house and sit on a bench, gazing at the town below. Wed take turns picking out our house, our friends houses, the steeple of the church in the Altstadt (old city).

But I also came to know Tbingen through our friends Karin and Rolf, who would take us with them into the Altstadt for the ritual of Saturday shopping, introducing us to their favorite cafs and vendors in the market square. Wed inevitably bump into other Tbingers who would be out too, walking the cobbled streets, all of us trying to get our shopping done by 2 P.M. when everything shut down for the weekend. Karin also helped me to know Germany through food, eating and cooking always according to season and what was available in the open-air Friday market. With her I learned to prepare homemade potato salad, wurst and sptzle, and the particularly rich brand of kuchen (cake) that only Germans can concoct. Meanwhile, Rolf took it upon himself to instruct me in the intricacies of the German language while plying me with dark German chocolate.

Later, when our friend Christian presented Charles and me with bikes to use during our visit, suddenly I came to know Tbingen in a wholly new way. I was free at last to traverse the red bike lane on the sidewalk, moving swiftly past the gardens and ancient buildings of Tbingen, the wind billowing my skirt.

As I peeled back the layers of the town, its people, and language bit by bit, it struck me that this kind of knowing, of grasping the nature of a place in the begreifen sense, is exactly what the stories in Travelers Tales books uniquely describe.

When James OReilly and Larry Habegger started their press in the early 90s, there was little else like Travelers Tales on bookstore shelves (apart from a few standalone, single-author travelogues). Among the maps and guidebooks that could tell you where to stay, what to do, and how much it would cost, the would-be traveler found little that offered a sense of the places themselvesof what it would actually feel like to be there, to take hold of and be embraced by the myriad possibilities therein. But then Travelers Tales came along, with its books of personal essays collected by country and, later, by topics such as nature, humor, spirituality, and womens writing. These books helped revive a lost artthe travel storywhich had gone virtually uncelebrated in the English language since the nineteenth century and the spate of travelogues inspired by American and British ventures abroad during the Grand Tour era.

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