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Mrs G. Gretton - The Englishwoman in Italy

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This book contains impressions of life in Italy during a ten years residence. While this may sound dry, the authors writing style is quite delightful: I had never travelled in a vettura before, and I thought the lumbering, crazy old vehicle with its ... small windows, hard seats, and peculiar smell of mouldering straw, quite novel and refreshing.

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THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY THE CORNICHE ROAD THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY - photo 1
THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY.
THE CORNICHE ROAD.
THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY.
IMPRESSIONS OF LIFE
IN THE
ROMAN STATES AND SARDINIA,
DURING A TEN YEARS' RESIDENCE.
BY
MRS. G. GRETTON.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from FlorenceThe VetturaInn among the ApenninesGeneral aspect of towns in RomagnaCauses of their decayAustrian officers at ForliDangers of the roadFirst impressions of Ancona
CHAPTER II.
Description of the PalazzoAn English family, though Italian bornComplimentary visits of the Anconitan nobilityHow they pass their timeDislike to country walksModern Cavaliere Servente
CHAPTER III.
A marriage in high lifeWedding outfitThe first interviewCondition of single womenThe laws of courtshipDependence of young married peopleAnecdotes of mothers-in-law
CHAPTER IV.
System pursued towards childrenResults of Jesuit trainingAnecdotes of the Sacr CurA Contessina just out of the conventDifficulty of giving a liberal education to young noblesNo profession open to them but the ChurchTheir ignorance and idleness
CHAPTER V.
The middle classesSuperior education of the menLow standard of female intellect and mannersTotal separation from the nobilityCultivated physicianA peep into his householdFamily economyConversazione at the chemist'sPassion for gamblingThe caff
CHAPTER VI.
Prejudice against firesGeneral dilapidation of dwelling-housesA lady's valet de chambreKindness towards servantsFreedom of intercourse with their mastersDevotedness of Italians to the sickHorror of deathFuneralsMourning
CHAPTER VII.
Decline of Carnival diversionsDislike to being brought into contact with AustriansThe theatrePublic TomboleShort-sighted policy of the Government
CHAPTER VIII.
The LotteryIts miserable resultsEvening partiesAbsence of all ostentationPoverty no crimeGrand supper on Shrove TuesdayReception of a Cardinal
CHAPTER IX.
Picturesque environs of AnconaDwellings of the peasantryTheir simplicity and trustManner of life and amusementsA wedding feast
CHAPTER X.
A rural christeningThe young count
CHAPTER XI.
Lent observancesCompulsory confessionThe sepulchres on Holy ThursdayProcession on Good FridayBlessing the housesJoyful celebration of Easter
CHAPTER XII.
Festivals of the MadonnaThe DuomoLegend of San CiriacoMiraculous PictureCourse of sermons by Padre GGeneral irreligion of the AnconitansEcclesiastical tribunal of 1856The Sacconi
CHAPTER XIII.
Political condition of AnconaArrogance of the Austrian GeneralStrictness of the martial lawA man shot on the denunciation of his wifeApplication of the stickRepublican excessesProneness to assassinationInfernal Association in 1849
CHAPTER XIV.
Execution of a criminalSympathy for his fateThe GhettoHardships of the JewsThe case of the Mortara child not without precedentStory of the Merchant and his niece
CHAPTER XV.
A wedding in the GhettoContrast between the state of the Christian and Hebrew populationArrival of the postHighway robberiesExploits of Passatore
CHAPTER XVI.
A visit to MacerataThe journeyThe Marziani familyVolunnia the old maidThe Marchesa Gentilina's midnight communications
CHAPTER XVII.
Comfortless bed-roomNational fear of waterWaste of timeOccupations of the different members of the familyVolunnia's sitting-roomHer acquirements
CHAPTER XVIII.
Volunnia's inquisitivenessHer strictures on English proprietyThe Marchesa Silvia's dread of hereticsThe dinnerThe Marchesa Gentilina knits stockings and talks politics
CHAPTER XIX.
A conversazione verbatimAdmiration for PiedmontAn attack of bandittiThe Marchesa describes the actual wretchedness of the countryCardinal Antonelli's addition to the calendar yearMonopoly of the corn tradeEntrance of the Knight of Malta
CHAPTER XX.
Conversazione continuedMatch-makingThe Codini opposed to travellingHopes of the liberals centred in PiedmontVolunnia's pleasantriesStory of the young noble and his pasteboard soldiers
CHAPTER XXI.
Unwillingness of the Italians to speak on serious topicsIndifference of the majority to literatureReasons for discouraging the cultivation of female intellectThe Marchesa Gentilina relates her convent experiencesAdmiration of English domestic life
CHAPTER XXII.
On the study of music in the MarcheNeglect of paintingThe young artistHis hopeless loveHis jealousyHis subsequent struggles and constancy
CHAPTER XXIII.
From Ancona to UmanaMoonlight viewThe country-houseIndifference of the Anconitans to flowers and gardeningAscent of the mountMagnificent prospect at sunriseTrappist convent
CHAPTER XXIV.
The bishop's palace at UmanaInroad of beggarsThe grotto of the slavesThe physician's political remarksApproach to LorettoBad reputation of its inhabitantsInvitation from the Canonico
CHAPTER XXV.
The Santa CasaPilgrimsThe treasuryExquisite statues and bassi-rilieviChocolate at the Canonico'sLa Signora PlacidaA survey of the houseThe rich vestments
CHAPTER XXVI.
Visit to the Carmelites at JesiOur joyous receptionThe casino and theatreInfractions of convent disciplineThe dinner near the sacristyIn company with the friars we visit the nuns
CHAPTER XXVII.
The writer's motive for not having dwelt minutely on political or historical subjectsAntiquity of AnconaIts reputation under the Roman EmpireIts celebrated resistance to the Emperor Frederic BarbarossaStratagem employed by its deliverersContinues to be a free city till 1532, when it is surprised by Gonzaga, General of Pope Clement VII., and subjected to the Holy SeeFlourishes under NapoleonRestoration of the PapacyPontifical possessionsExplanation of the terms, Legations and RomagnaBologna conquered in 1506, by Julius II., but retains a separate form of governmentFerrara, Urbino, &c.Dates of their annexation
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Injudicious policy of the Government at the RestorationNon-fulfilment of the Motu proprio of Pius VII.Disappointment of the pontifical subjectsInability of Cardinals Consalvi and Guerrieri to contend against the narrow views of their colleaguesReasons of Austria's animosity against the formerGuerrieri's projected reforms bring about his fallThe constitutional movement of 1820-21Its effect in the Papal StatesAbuse of Consalvi's instructionsExtreme political rigour under Leo XII.Distracted condition of the countryThe Sanfedisti rising of 1831First Austrian army intervention in RomagnaConferences at RomeMr Seymour's protestFresh disturbances in the LegationsThe Austrians again occupy BolognaThe French land at AnconaThe reign of Gregory XVI.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Accession of Pius IX.The amnestyHis unbounded popularityHis reforms and concessionsDisasters entailed by the French RevolutionThe encyclical of the 29th AprilRevulsion of feelingThe Mazzinians gain groundAustrian intriguesAssassination of Count RossiThe Pope's flight to GaetaEfforts of the Constitutionalists to bring about an accommodationThe republic is proclaimed in RomeExcesses in Ancona and SenigalliaModeration of the BologneseTheir courageous resistance to General WimpffenSiege of AnconaExtreme severities of the victors
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