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Blunt - A Pilgrimage to Nejd, the Cradle of the Arab Race. Vol. 2 [of 2]

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This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler A PILGRIMAGE TO NEJD THE CRADLE OF - photo 1
This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.
A PILGRIMAGE TO NEJD,
THE CRADLE OF THE ARAB RACE.
A VISIT TO THE COURT OF THE ARAB EMIR, AND
OUR PERSIAN CAMPAIGN.
By LADY ANNE BLUNT.
AUTHOR OF THE BEDOUIN TRIBES OF THE EUPHRATES.
IN TWO VOLUMES.VOL. II.
WITH MAP, PORTRAITS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
THE AUTHORS DRAWINGS.
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET,
1881.
[All rights reserved.]
CONTENTS TO VOL. II.
CHAPTER XII.
PAGE
Nejd horsesTheir rarityIbn Saouds studThe stables at HalSome notes of individual maresThe points of a Nejd headThe tribes in the Nefds and their horsesMeaning of the term NejdiRecipe for training
CHAPTER XIII.
Mohammed loses his headA ride with the EmirThe mountain fortress of AgdeFarewell to HalWe join the Persian HajWays and manners of the pilgrimsA clergyman of Medina
CHAPTER XIV.
We go in search of adventuresTaybetismAn hyena huntHow to cook locustsHawkingThe reservoirs of ZobeydehTales and legendsA coup de thtreMohammed composes a kasid
CHAPTER XV.
Muttlak Ibn Ark and the KetherinTheir horsesWe are adopted by the tribeThe Haj againAmbar sends round the hatA forced march of one hundred and seventy milesTerrible loss of camelsNejef
CHAPTER XVI.
The Shrines of the ShiasBedouin honestyLegend of the Tower of BabelBagdadOur party breaks up
OUR PERSIAN CAMPAIGN.
CHAPTER I.
New plans and new preparationsWe leave Bagdad for PersiaWild boar hunting in the WudianA terrible accidentWe travel with a holy manCamps of the Beni LaamAn alarm
CHAPTER II.
We are betrayed into the hands of robbersGhafil and SaadunWe diplomatiseA march across No-mans-landNight terrorsWe claim protection of a Persian prince
CHAPTER III.
A prince in exileTea moneyRafts on the KherkaLast words with the Beni LaamKerim KhanBeautiful PersiaWe arrive at Dizful
CHAPTER IV.
Pleasures of town lifeThe Khanis courtBactiari shepherdsShustarIts palace, its river, and its gardenA telegraph clerk
CHAPTER V.
Illness and miseryA Persian escortThe Shahs Arab subjectsRam Hormuz and its nightingalesNight marchingDeserted villagesHow they collect taxes in PersiaBebahan
CHAPTER VI.
A last rush through the sunWe arrive at Dilam on the Persian GulfPolitics of the GulfA journey in extremisBashireThe End
APPENDICES.
Notes on the Physical Geography of Northern Arabia
Historical Sketch of the Rise and Decline of Wahhabism in Arabia
Memorandum on the Euphrates Valley Railway, and its Kindred Schemes of Railway Communication between The Mediterranean and the persian gulf
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.
Portrait of Mr. Blunt ( by Molony )
Frontispiece
PAGE
Ibn Rashids Mares
to face
Hamd Ibn Rashid
Pilgrimage Leaving Hal
to face
Edible Locust
Reservoir of Zobeydeh
to face
Persian Pilgrims in Front of the Haj
Meshhed Ali
to face
Ariel , an nazeh Mare
Canora
Shagran
Granite Range Of Jebel Shammar ( Effect of Mirage )
to face
Fortress Of Agde
to face
Rock Inscriptions and Drawings in Jebel Shammar
CHAPTER XII.
Je ne trouvai point en eux ces formes que je mattendais retrouver dans la patrie de Zeid el Kheil. Guarmani .
Nejd horsesTheir rarityIbn Saouds studThe stables at HalSome notes of individual maresThe points of a Nejd headThe tribes in the Nefds and their horsesMeaning of the term NejdiRecipe for training.
A chapter on the horses we saw at Hal has been promised, and may as well be given here.
Ibn Rashids stud is now the most celebrated in Arabia, and has taken the place in public estimation of that stud of Feysul ibn Saouds which Mr. Palgrave saw sixteen years ago at Riad, and which he described in the picturesque paragraphs which have since been constantly quoted. The cause of this transference of supremacy from Aared to Jebel Shammar, lies in the political changes which have occurred since 1865, and which have taken the leadership of Central Arabia out of the hands of the Ibn Saouds and put it into those of the Emirs of Hal.
Mohammed ibn Rashid is now not only the most powerful of Bedouin sheykhs, but the richest prince in Arabia; and as such has better means than any other of acquiring the best horses of Nejd, nor have these been neglected by him.
The possession of thoroughbred mares is always among the Arabs a symbol of power; and with the loss of their supreme position in Nejd, the Ibn Saouds have lost their command of the market, and their stud has been allowed to dwindle. The quarrels of the two brothers, Abdallah and Saoud, sons of Feysul, on their fathers death, their alternate victories and flights from the capital, and the ruin wrought on them both by the Turks, broke up an establishment which depended on wealth and security for its maintenance; and at the present moment, if common report speaks true, hardly a twentieth part of the old stud remains at Riad. The rest have passed into other hands.
That Feysuls stud in its day was the best in Arabia is probable, and it may be that no collection now to be found there has an equal merit; but there seems little reason for supposing that it differed in anything but degree from what we ourselves saw, or that the animals composing it were distinct from those still owned by the various Bedouin tribes of Nejd. All our inquiries, on the contrary (and we spared no occasion of asking questions), tend to show that it is a mistake to suppose that the horses kept by the Emirs of Riad were a special breed, preserved in the towns of Aared from time immemorial, or that they differed in any way from those bred elsewhere in Central Arabia. They were, we were repeatedly assured, a collection recruited from the various tribes of the Nefds,a very fine collection, no doubt, but still a collection. Every Bedouin we have asked has laughed at the idea of there being a special Nejd breed, only found in Aared. In answer to our questions we were informed that in Feysuls time emissaries from Riad were constantly on the look-out for mares wherever they could find them; and that the Emir had often made ghazs against this and that tribe, with no other object than the possession of a particular animal, of a particular breed. The tribe from which he got the best blood, the Hamdani Simri and the Kehilan el-Krush, was the Muteyr (sometimes called the Dushan), while the Beni Khaled, Dafir, Shammar, and even the nazeh, supplied him with occasional specimens. Abdallah ibn Saoud, his successor, still retains a few of them, but the bulk of the collection was dispersed, many of the best passing into the hands of Metaab and Bender, Mohammed ibn Rashids predecessors. Mohammed himself follows precisely the same system, except that he does not take by force, but on payment. He makes purchases from all the tribes around, and though he breeds in the town, his collection is constantly recruited from without. Were this not the case, no doubt, it would soon degenerate, as town-bred horses in Arabia, being stall-fed and getting no sort of exercise, are seldom fit for much. There is a false notion that the oases, such as those of Jebel Shammar and Aared, are spots especially adapted for the rearing of horses, and that the sandy wastes outside contain no pasture. But the very reverse of this is the case. The oases in which the towns stand, produce nothing but date palms and garden produce, nor is there a blade of grass, or even a tuft of camel pasture in their neighbourhood. The townspeople keep no animals except a few camels used for working the wells, and now and then a donkey. Even these must be fed either on corn or dates, which none but the rich can afford. Horses are a luxury reserved only for princes, and even the richest citizens do their travelling from village to village on foot. Longer journeys are performed on dromedaries brought in from the desert for the purpose, which are either the property of Bedouins or held with them by the citizens on shares.
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