David Langlieb - Explorers Guide Philadelphia, Brandywine Valley & Bucks County: A Great Destination: Includes Lancaster Countys Amish Country

A COMPLETE GUIDE

A COMPLETE GUIDE

FIRST EDITION

David
Langlieb

To Sol Langlieb and Egon Sensky

Copyright 2009 by David Langlieb

First Edition

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.

Website URLs listed in this book were current at the time of publication. If you find information that has changed, let us know at and we will use that in preparing future editions.

ISBN 978-1-58157-087-8

Cover photo by David Langlieb

Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified

Maps by Mapping Specialists Ltd., Madison WI, The Countryman Press

Book design by Bodenweber Design

Composition by Christine Cantera Design

Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091

Distributed by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

Printed in the United States of America

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GREAT DESTINATIONS TRAVEL GUIDEBOOK SERIES

Recommended by National Geographic Traveler and Travel + Leisure magazines

A CRISP AND CRITICAL APPROACH, FOR TRAVELERS WHO WANT TO LIVE LIKE LOCALS.

USA Today

Great Destinations guidebooks are known for their comprehensive, critical coverage of regions of extraordinary cultural interest and natural beauty. Each title in this series is continuously updated with each printing to ensure accurate and timely information. All the books contain more than one hundred photographs and maps.

Current titles available:

THE ADIRONDACK BOOK

THE ALASKA PANHANDLE

ATLANTA

AUSTIN, SAN ANTONIO & THE TEXAS HILL COUNTRY

THE BERKSHIRE BOOK

BIG SUR, MONTEREY BAY & GOLD COAST WINE COUNTRY

CAPE CANAVERAL, COCOA BEACH & FLORIDAS SPACE COAST

THE CHARLESTON, SAVANNAH & COASTAL ISLANDS BOOK

THE CHESAPEAKE BAY BOOK

THE COAST OF MAINE BOOK

COLORADOS CLASSIC MOUNTAIN TOWNS

COSTA RICA: GREAT DESTINATIONS CENTRAL AMERICA

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

THE FINGER LAKES BOOK

THE FOUR CORNERS REGION

GALVESTON, SOUTH PADRE ISLAND & THE TEXAS GULF COAST

GUATEMALA: GREAT DESTINATIONS CENTRAL AMERICA

THE HAMPTONS BOOK

HAWAIIS BIG ISLAND: GREAT DESTINATIONS HAWAII

HONOLULU & OAHU: GREAT DESTINATIONS HAWAII

THE JERSEY SHORE: ATLANTIC CITY TO CAPE MAY

KAUAI: GREAT DESTINATIONS HAWAII

LAKE TAHOE & RENO

LAS VEGAS

LOS CABOS & BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR: GREAT DESTINATIONS MEXICO

MAUI: GREAT DESTINATIONS HAWAII

MEMPHIS AND THE DELTA BLUES TRAIL

MICHIGANS UPPER PENINSULA

MONTREAL & QUEBEC CITY: GREAT DESTINATIONS CANADA

THE NANTUCKET BOOK

THE NAPA & SONOMA BOOK

NORTH CAROLINAS OUTER BANKS & THE CRYSTAL COAST

NOVA SCOTIA & PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

OAXACA: GREAT DESTINATIONS MEXICO

PALM BEACH, FORT LAUDERDALE, MIAMI & THE FLORIDA KEYS

PALM SPRINGS & DESERT RESORTS

PHILADELPHIA, BRANDYWINE VALLEY & BUCKS COUNTY

PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE, SEDONA & CENTRAL ARIZONA

PLAYA DEL CARMEN, TULUM & THE RIVIERA MAYA: GREAT DESTINATIONS MEXICO

SALT LAKE CITY, PARK CITY, PROVO & UTAHS HIGH COUNTRY RESORTS

SAN DIEGO & TIJUANA

SAN JUAN, VIEQUES & CULEBRA: GREAT DESTINATIONS PUERTO RICO

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE & GUANAJUATO: GREAT DESTINATIONS MEXICO

THE SANTA FE & TAOS BOOK

THE SARASOTA, SANIBEL ISLAND & NAPLES BOOK

THE SEATTLE & VANCOUVER BOOK

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY BOOK

TOURING EAST COAST WINE COUNTRY

TUCSON

VIRGINIA BEACH, RICHMOND & TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

WASHINGTON, D.C., AND NORTHERN VIRGINIA

YELLOWSTONE & GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARKS & JACKSON HOLE

YOSEMITE & THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA

The authors in this series are professional travel writers who have lived for many years in the regions they describe. Honest and painstakingly critical, full of information only a local can provide, Great Destinations guidebooks give you all the practical knowledge you need to enjoy the best of each region.

MAPS

I received so much help at every turn that I cringe thinking where Id be without it. The initial encouragement from Gabrielle Ohayon, Slater Gray, Mark Robinson, and Sebastian Mankowski was crucial. Huge thanks are owed to Jeanette Duffy, who drafted a sidebar and gave several chapters her rigorous consideration while putting up with a lot. My classmates at the Fels Institute provided indispensable support and made eating and drinking my way around Philadelphia a pleasure. I enjoyed every one of those meals, and getting to know all of you truly was the highlight of my year. The same goes for my old college friends who helped me through this process.

Professor Gary McDonogh somehow found time to offer feedback while working on a thousand projects of his own. Kim Grant is a saint and wonderful editor. Maria McCollester reviewed much of the text and helped me revisit key establishments until I got them right. Kim R. Ford provided a seasoned palate and sparkling conversation that only got better when it bordered on outright hostility. Meredith Brett (and parents!) gave me new perspective on Bucks County, and Katie Thomas filled in the blanks of Amish Country. Abbie Lamb Siskin and Eric Siskin offered content guidance and made me believe in love. Liz Garrison was a calming influence when the going got tough. La Vida Johnson ate the vegetables I couldnt stand and taught me good manners. Ed DeSeve broadened my perspective on the regions history. The ever-reliable Sarah Lorr and Milan Mitra remain the salt of the earth. And whatever I now know about womens clothing stores is owed entirely to Liz Roller. There are many others: Esther Agbaje, Mike Bruckner, Lauren Dawson, Kate Dempsey, Justin Evilsizor, Brittany Gibbs, Rachel Gormley, Andrew Gooch, Meredith Guillot, Lauren Hoberg, Suzanne Hughes, Chris Kingsley, Kate Meeley, and Maura OBrien to name just a few.

Special thanks are also owed to Deke Castleman, who for reasons I still dont fully understand went out of his way to support me in this field when I was a dopey kid bouncing around Las Vegas. Theres no way this book could have existed without him. The same goes for Anthony Curtis. More than anything, Im grateful to Mom, Dad, Grandma, and Madeline for their unconditional love and support.

And a final thank you to the dozens upon dozens of innkeepers, shop owners, antique dealers, barflies, and local residents throughout the Delaware Valley and Pennsylvania Dutch Country who enthusiastically filled the gaps in my knowledge and helped me produce the best text that I could. Any inaccuracies are my own, but the pithy observations and useful recommendations are mostly theirs.