AN EXPLORERS GUIDE
Eastern Pennsylvania
Copyright 2012 by Laura Randall
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.
Explorers Guide Eastern Pennsylvania
978-0-88150-993-9
Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by Erin Greb Cartography, The Countryman Press
Book design by Bodenweber Design
Composition by PerfecType, Nashville, TN
Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091
Distributed by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
For my parents, Bill and Rosemarie Randall.
EXPLORE WITH US!
Welcome to the second edition of Eastern Pennsylvania: An Explorers Guide, the definitive guide to Philadelphia and the large and diverse regions that surround it. Its the ideal companion for exploring the Brandywine Valley, Bucks County, Amish Country, Gettysburg, and the Pocono Mountains. Here youll find thorough coverage of big cities and small towns, plus everything in between, with detailed listings on the best sightseeing, outdoor activities, restaurants, shopping, and B&Bs. Like all other Explorers Guides, this book is an old-fashioned, classic travelers guide, where an experienced and knowledgeable expert helps you find your way around a new area or explore some fascinating corners of a familiar one.
WHATS WHERE
In the beginning of this book, youll find an alphabetical listing of special highlights and important information that you may want to reference quickly. Youll find advice on everything from navigating the complicated state liquor laws to ordering cheesesteaks.
LODGING
Weve selected lodging places for inclusion in this book based on merit alone; we do not charge innkeepers for their inclusion. Prices: Please dont hold us or the respective innkeepers responsible for rates listed as of press time in late 2011. Changes are inevitable. At the time of this writing, the state room tax was 6 percent (plus an additional 1 percent in Philadelphia) and city and county room tax was 6 percent.
RESTAURANTS
In most chapters, please note the distinction between Eating Out and Dining Out. By their nature, restaurants included in the Eating Out group are generally inexpensive. A range of prices is included for each entry.
KEY TO SYMBOLS
Child-friendly. The crayon denotes a family-friendly place or event that welcomes young children. Most B&Bs prohibit children under 12.
Handicapped access. The wheelchair icon denotes a place with full ADAAmericans with Disabilities Actstandard access, still distressingly rare in these remote areas.
Rainy day. The umbrella icon points out places where you can entertain yourself but still stay dry in bad weather.
Pets. The dogs paw icon identifies lodgings that allow petsstill the exception to the rule. Accommodations that accept pets may still charge an extra fee or restrict pets to certain areas, as well as require advance notice.
Special value. The blue-ribbon symbol appears next to selected lodging and restaurants that combine quality and moderate prices.
Good bars. The martini glass icon appears next to restaurants and entertainment venues that have them.
Weddings. Listings with the ring symbol have the skill and capacity to host wedding ceremonies and receptions.
The Countryman Press
CONTENTS
LIST OF MAPS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
F irst, I want to send heartfelt appreciation to each business, chamber of commerce, convention-bureau staff member, historian, and park ranger who contributed information, offered assistance, and patiently answered my many, many questions about their towns and attractions.
Its impossible to name everyone, but a few stand out. Mary Linkevich at Hawk Mountain Sanctuary for steering me toward local shops and B&Bs in addition to all the tips on visiting her beloved mountain. The folks at Hopewell Furnace, Independence Hall, and Eisenhower National Historic Sites for loving their jobs so much and conveying that to everyone who visits. Nadine and Carl Glassman, of Wedgwood Inn in New Hope, quintessential innkeepers and invaluable fonts of information about their lovely river town. Nina Kelly, for making my visit to West Chester so easy, and tirelessly showing off the towns beauty and culture.
This book also wouldnt have been possible without my network of friends and family who were always on hand to recommend and describe their favorite places to eat, stroll, shop, and sightsee in the Keystone State. Ayleen Stellhorn, Deborah and Laine Kasdras, Karen and Tom Condor, and Sherri Schmidtyour tips and opinions are always spot-on and useful. The high standards of the voracious and devoted folks at Chow hound must also be acknowledged here. The Pennsylvania food threads inspired me to scope out many new farm markets and restaurantsand they never steered me wrong. Finally, grateful thanks go to Lynn Williams and Tracey Molettiere for being game to try any type of meal or road trip with relish and laughterheres to friendship.
Thanks and sincere appreciation must also go to my parents, Bill and Rosemarie Randall, for their tireless reconnaissance work, which in this edition involved everything from sampling chicken potpies and butter brickle ice cream to tracking down the trailhead to a hidden waterfall deep in the Pocono Mountains. The always-accessible Kim Grant, as well as Kermit Hummel and Lisa Sacks at The Countryman Press, also deserve a shout for their editorial guidance and infectious enthusiasm for travel.
And, as always, thanks to my husband, John Kimble, for his ever-calming presence, and to our sons, Jack and Theo, for their willingness to visit parks, diners, out-of-the-way museums, and Italian ice stands with me at all hours of the day and night. Heres to a future of many more fun family adventures.
INTRODUCTION
W ith its abundant natural resources and central role in early American history, eastern Pennsylvania attracts a wide swath of travelers to its cities and rural towns. It is home to the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, the countrys second-largest Amish community and one of its biggest shopping malls, and more than 100 lakes, rivers, and state parks. Philadelphia may be the areas anchor and urban soul, but it is surrounded by miles of rolling green farmlands, forested mountains, and villages that havent changed much since the king of England bequeathed the state to William Penn. Within an hour or twos drive from the citys center, you can tour a dozen historic battlefields, shop for antiques, go tubing along a pristine stretch of the Delaware River, visit a chocolate factory straight out of Willie Wonka, and eat chicken corn soup and chow-chow in an 18th-century farmhouse. The area really does offer something for everyone.
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