Snyder Carla - Sweet and tart : 70 irresistible recipes with citrus

Dedication

To my mother, Linda Lou Ella Paul Ferguson, who indulged me with citrus jelly fruit slices on shopping trips, offered sharp advice about making the most of what you have, and warned that sour thoughts make wrinkles. Thanks, Mom, for a Sweet Tart life.

And to my granddaughters, Kyley Sue Snyder and Emma Quinn Snyder... we have lots of baking to do.

Text copyright 2015 by Carla Snyder.
Photographs copyright 2015 by Nicole Franzen.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.
ISBN 978-1-4521-3479-6 (hc)
ISBN 978-1-4521-3974-6 (epub, mobi)

Designed by Vanessa Dina
Illustration by Agnes Lee
Prop styling by Kate Jordan
Food styling by Chelsea Zimmer
Typesetting by Frank Brayton

Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com

I always say, when life gives you lemons, make dessert.

Tart and tantalizing, the sharp tang of beloved, bright yellow lemons cant be beaten for both pleasing palates and helping all the flavors of a homemade creation to pop. Theres no end to the versatility of lemonsthey flavor the airiest cakes, richest ice creams, and iciest sorbets. And for lemon lovers looking for savory renditions, lemon lifts the frothiest souffls and adds sparkle to crackers and herb muffins. Welcome to Sweet and Tart, where youll find all your favorite citrus desserts, like Mile-High Lemon Meringue Pie and Heavenly Lemon Squares; updated classics, like Limoncello Shortcakes with Berries and Meyer Lemon Ice Cream, and Cara Cara Cheesecake with Chocolate Crust; and sublime savories such as Flat Bread with Lemony Pesto and Ricotta and Marinated Olives with Lemon and Rosemary. To plump up the citrus power, there are also recipes showcasing orange, grapefruit, and lime.

Sweet and Tart is a book for bakers of every level, but with the understanding that work and family schedules are busier than ever. The recipes are straightforward, with start-to-finish and hands-on times, basic equipment (no fancy pans or gadgets), and zesty tips for ingredients and techniques. These professional tips are small things, but they really add up to a more enjoyable baking experience, and give you the confidence and information you need to execute a recipe within your time frame and expertise. I also include make-ahead information for those recipes that can be prepared in advance, because knowing you can make a fabulous dish ahead of time can be a wonderful thing.

I love the zing that citrus brings to meals and the fact that sweet-tart flavor is so simple to achieve; all it takes is a zest and a squeeze. Thus this book begins with A Zest and a Squeeze: Tips, Tools, and Techniques, discussing how to best zest and juice citrus, baking tips, and must-have tools such as Microplanes and reamers.

Youll find something here for everyone who has a taste for citrus, presented in six chapters, each devoted to a different type of pastry or meal occasionfrom Lemon Cake with Lemon- Mascarpone Frosting to Orange Sherbet, and from Lemony Blueberry Muffins with Lemon Streusel to Summer Tart with Lemon and Sun-Dried Tomatoes. Youll also find within the Basics chapter all the little extras that make lemon desserts sing, such as lemon and orange curds, lemon marmalade, and candied citrus peel dipped in chocolate. Youll love how these tangy accompaniments ramp up your desserts and add a hint of flavor to otherwise plain confections. For example, a dollop of lemon curd alongside good ol strawberry shortcake elevates that dessert to another level. Or a slice or two of candied lemon peel is just the thing to go along with an after-dinner espresso. These may seem like luxuries, but actually they are super-easy staples that make life taste sunny.

When it comes to desserts, the punch of lemon is hard to beat. All it takes to get your groove on is a bag of gorgeous citrus fruit from your local market and a few moments to thumb through Sweet and Tart, where youll be sure to find the perfect lemon sweet or snack for any season, occasion, or time frame. So pucker up! Every day is a good day when it includes a delicious citrus delight.

Always zest citrus fruit before squeezing. Its so much easier.

When zesting, use organic citrus, or wash the fruit really well to remove pesticides and wax.

Room-temperature citrus yields the most juice. If you store lemons in the refrigerator, warm them up in the microwave for 30 seconds or let the fruit stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour before juicing.

An average lemon yields 3 to 4 Tbsp juice and about 1 Tbsp zest. A lime will yield 1 to 2 Tbsp juice and 1 to 2 tsp zest. An orange will yield 1/3 to 1/2 cup [80 to 120 ml] juice and 11/2 Tbsp zest.

Fine- and medium-mesh strainers are handy when separating the seeds and pulp from citrus juice.

Heat-proof spatulas in various sizes are indispensable, and are by far the best tool for stirring lemon curd while it thickens. The flat surface slides across the bottom of the pan, ensuring even cooking and fewer lumps. A round wooden spoon works fine, but if you find one with a flat edge, buy it. Youll love how it stirs things up.

Heavy-duty baking sheets will change your world. They wont torque in the oven once they heat up, which is a fine thing. Buy two for sure, but if you have storage space, four would be ideal.

An instant-read thermometer is a great tool for baking as well as for cooking. Use it to check for when breads and rolls are done. Insert the thermometer into the center of a loaf or bun; when it reads 200F [95C], the bread is ready.

A Microplane zester may be the best tool you ever buy. It effortlessly takes just the peel from a citrus fruit, and not the bitter white pith that lies underneath. I promise you will never be sorry to give it space in your gadget drawer.

A few natural-bristle pastry brushes will come in handy. Im not a fan of silicone brushes, but that might just be my preference. Its nice to have a wide brush (about 3 in [7.5 cm]) and a narrower one (2 in [5 cm]) for brushing egg glazes on pastry. Brushes are also great for greasing cake pans. They do a much more thorough job than a piece of butter on paper rubbed into the bottom and sides of a pan. A brush deposits that nonstick grease in the corners, where you really need it.

Buy an inexpensive oven thermometer to check the accuracy of your oven. If your oven is off by more than 25F [5C], you arent getting the best performance from it.

Ramekins and other small containers are handy for organizing your ingredients before you bake, as are an assortment of lightweight and heat-proof stainless-steel bowls .