The information contained in this book is based on the experience and research of the author. It is not intended as a substitute for consulting with your physician or other health-care provider. Any attempt to diagnose and treat an illness should be done under the direction of a health-care professional. The publisher and author are not responsible for any adverse effects or consequences resulting from the use of any of the suggestions, preparations, or procedures discussed in this book.
Copyright 2015 by Maria Speck
Photographs copyright 2015 by Erin Kunkel
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Speck, Maria.
Simply ancient grains : fresh and flavorful whole grain recipes for living well / by Maria Speck. First edition.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. Cooking (Cereals) 2. Grain. 3. Heirloom varieties (Plants) I. Title.
TX808.S6653 2015
641.631dc23
2014036879
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-588-4
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-589-1
Printed in China
Design by Ashley Lima
Food Styling by Valerie Aikman-Smith and George Dolese
v3.1
acknowledgments
Not too long ago, I was convinced that writing my first cookbook, Ancient Grains for Modern Meals, was the hardest thing I ever did. After all, Im not a trained food professional but a news reporter and journalist with a one-dimensional and lifelong love for ancient grains. Little did I know that my second cookbook would be even more challenging. I assumed that knowing the whole arduous process of writing a cookbook would somehow free me from all the angst and trepidation I experienced the first time around. Instead, I found myself wanting to drop the proverbial pencil and call it quits just as often.
A little drama, of course, is in my Greek nature. My perfectionist German side doesnt help much either. Yet miraculously, after much struggle, they did unite to finish the jobbut not without the help of an army of people.
Most important, Im honored and thrilled beyond words that the terrific team at Ten Speed Press, headed by Aaron Wehner, took on my second cookbook as well. In todays cutthroat environment for hard copy books, it is beyond amazing how Ten Speed remains committed in its strong support for authors, guiding them with a gentle hand. And supported I felt, from the moment we started talking about this project to the very last edits.
Im immensely thankful that my editor, Jenny Wapner, gave me the freedom to shape this book, and then skillfully contained my enthusiastic headnotes, untangled some of my writing, and patiently corrected my non-natives spelling mistakes. The designer, Ashley Lima, had me spellbound from the first drafts. Im grateful to photographer Erin Kunkel and food stylists Valerie Aikman-Smith and George Dolese for their stunning presentation of my favorite food group. My gratitude extends to the copyeditor, Mikayla Butchart, and the proofreader, Jennifer McClain, for their diligence and dedication.
More than anything, Im indebted to my whip-smart agent, Jenni Ferrari-Adler, who rescues her authors James Bondstyle, from the drivers seat of her red Cabrioletat least in my mind. Jenni is one of these people who somehow know when you are cracking and suddenly calls, seemingly out of the blue. And calls again, and again if needed, just to keep you going. Jenni understands my mad fastidiousness and has not let me down. Thank you!
This book could not have been written without the enthusiastic support of my number one recipe tester, Karen Levendusky, whose dedication is a cookbook authors dream. When she agreed to help again with this project, just like with the first one, I almost started dancing on my desk. Karen has cooked all the recipes at least once, sometimes more, including the many gluten-free options, and with lightning speed. She went out of her way to track down grains, she created tables, found spelling mistakes and other bloopers, and always kept on top of things. In the race to the end, she even came to my house to help with a task that seemed insurmountable. Her boundless energy and passion for grains and her kindness in all communications make her a role model. Im also indebted to her husband, Joe, who seems to love grains as much as I do, and who never minds eating dessert.
I will be forever thankful to the vibrant Boston food community who helped in so many ways I can not describe. My gratitude goes to Ana Sortun of Oleana and Sofra Bakery, to Jason Bond of Bondir restaurant and Bondir Concord, and to Matthew Gaudet of West Bridge for serving grains on their menu the way I envision them. For their inspiration, I look to Chuck Draghi of Erbaluce for his exquisite style of cooking, purist and sensual all at once, as well as to Tony Maws of Craigie on Main and Kirkland Tap and Trotter and to Steve Johnson of the former Rendezvous. For support, I thank my amazing colleague Kathy Gunst of WBUR, and JJ Gonson, the most dedicated locavore I have ever met, Maggie Battista of the gorgeous Eat Boutique site, and the Chefs Collaborative who gave me the opportunity to introduce my passion to chefs.
Help came also from the endlessly curious folks at Americas Test Kitchen, from Lori Galvin to Andrew Janjigian, who answered and even investigated science questions I had. And my friend Tzurit Or of Tatte Bakery fame, whose fast-growing and stylish venues have introduced some of the finest pastries to the United States. Tzurit sustained me on rare breaks with her amazing treats, and her undeterred drive and boundless energy are a constant inspiration.
Im grateful to the enthusiastic team at Fine Cooking who first published my recipe for shortcut polenta and gave it the perfect name. And I cannot name all the countless colleagues and fellow authors from around the world who answered questions on cookie counts, slow cookers, dried fruits, and more. Among them are the bakers, par excellence, Peter Reinhart and Sam Fromartz, and fellow perfectionist Zoe Francois.
I owe a lot to blogging pioneer Heidi Swanson who kindly shared a recipe from my first book with her online community, to brilliant Sara Kate Gillingham, founder of Apartment Therapys The Kitchn for inviting me to introduce ancient grains to readers, and to dynamo blogger Shauna Ahern of gluten-free-girl who changed the dialogue on celiac disease and who loves gluten-free whole grains. I will be forever thankful to Tim Mazurek of gorgeous Lottie + Doof who cooked millet when no one else thought it could taste good and to fellow Greek food lover Peter Minakis of the vibrant blog Kalofagas. Heartfelt thanks to Cheryl Sternman Rule, Domenica Marchetti, and Anne Bramley for their encouragement, last-minute help, and their friendship.
I will be forever grateful to the kind Anne Willan of the La Varenne cooking school, who provided most thoughtful advice and guidance when I was in dire need. When I despair in my quest for information, I look to food historian Rachel Laudan who always invites a dialogue on food and grains. Her book