Going with the Grain

Slowly but surely, grains have moved from the culinary sidelines to their rightful place as twenty-first-century food heroes. No longer dismissed as mere health foods, they have become must-have ingredients for home cooks, they show up increasingly in food magazines and blogs, and are allocated ever-expanding shelf space in supermarkets. But what exactly are grains? Why all the hype?

Grains, or cereals (from Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture), are the seeds of cultivated grasses, such as wheat, rice, and barley. They contain the plants embryo and with it a package of concentrated nutrients to support the new plants growth. There are also so-called pseudo-grains, such as quinoa and amaranth. These are not grasses but share much of the same nutritional characteristics and culinary uses.

Grains are the go-getters of the plant world. They are not picky about where they grow and many positively thrive in scorching sun, sub-zero temperatures, and poor-quality soil. In prehistoric times, grains were one of the first foods that could be stored. They were key to transforming a nomadic society to one that put down roots, and are now a staple food for about half the worlds population.

	For easy reference, the symbols shown below appear on the recipes in this book:
	indicates recipes that are suitable for vegetarians
	indicates recipes that do not contain gluten

QUINOA (pronounced keen-wah)
Chenopodium quinoa

Quinoa is native to Peru and Bolivia where it was known as the golden grain of the Incas. Botanically related to beets and spinach, it is one of the hardiest of plants, and trumps the nutrient content of all other grains. It is said to be the only plant food that contains all nine essential amino acids, putting it on a par with animal protein. It is also gluten-free. Not only are its nutritional credentials impeccable, it is also incredibly quick and easy to cook. Use it as a side dish and in a multitude of other dishes, including salads, soups, stews, stuffings, egg dishes, bread, cakes, and desserts.

Shopping

Grains: Minuscule white, red, or black, round seeds with a pale band around the edge.

Flakes: Use in the same way as oat flakes for a hot breakfast cereal.

Puffs: Popped grains eaten as a breakfast cereal.

Flour: Gluten-free, slightly bitter. Needs combining with other flours to make bread and cakes rise.

Cooking

The seeds are naturally coated with bitter saponin that is removed during processing. The seeds should still be rinsed to remove any residue. Put in a fine-meshed strainer under running water and rub with your fingers.

Use 1 part quinoa to 2 parts liquid.

Put in a saucepan with the liquid and a little salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat but leave the pan covered for another 7 minutes to let the seeds swell. The band around the edge will uncurl like a spiral. Drain off any excess liquid through a fine-meshed strainer. Fluff up with a fork.

Tasting

The seeds have a mild, slightly grassy flavor and a unique texturenoticeably soft and light, but crunchy, too. White seeds have a hint of sweetness, while red seeds are slightly drier with a bit more crunch. Black are more intense flavor-wise with definite crunch.

AMARANTH
Amaranthus caudatus

Once the sacred food of the Aztecs, amaranth is a pseudo-grain that is botanically related to spinach and chard. Its a protein powerhouse, rich in calcium, gluten-free, and highly digestible. Amaranth can be used in soups, stews, porridge, smoothies, desserts, bread, and cakes.

Shopping

Grains: Minuscule cream seeds.

Flour: Gluten-free, slightly bitter. Needs combining with other flours to make bread and cakes rise.

Cooking

Soak for 8 hours, then drain and rinse before cooking.

Use 1 part amaranth to 2 parts liquid.

Put in a saucepan with the liquid and a little salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 1520 minutes. Remove from the heat but leave the pan covered for another 1015 minutes to let the seeds swell. Fluff up with a fork.

Tasting

The seeds have an intense, earthy, almost cornlike flavor. The texture is somewhat gritty (soaking helps) and verges on gummy if left to rest.