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Vick Frances Brannen - Tales of Texas cooking : stories and recipes from the Trans Pecos to the Piney Woods and High Plains to the Gulf prairies

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Vick Frances Brannen Tales of Texas cooking : stories and recipes from the Trans Pecos to the Piney Woods and High Plains to the Gulf prairies
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According to Renaissance woman and Pepper Lady Jean Andrews, although food is eaten as a response to hunger, it is much more than filling ones stomach. It also provides emotional fulfillment. This is borne out by the joy many of us feel as a family when we get in the kitchen and cook together and then share in our labors at the dinner table. Food is comfort, yet it is also political and contested because we often are what we eatmeaning what is available and familiar and allowed.
Texas is fortunate in having a bountiful supply of ethnic groups influencing its foodways, and Texas food is the perfect metaphor for the blending of diverse cultures and native resources. Food is a symbol of our success and our communion, and whenever possible, Texans tend to do food in a big way.
This latest publication from the Texas Folklore Society contains stories and more than 120 recipes, from long ago and just yesterday, organized by the 10 vegetation regions of the state.
Herein youll find Senator Kay Bailey Hutchisons Family Cake, memories of beef jerky and sassafras tea from John Erickson of Hank the Cowdog fame, Sam Houstons barbecue sauce, and stories and recipes from Roy Bedichek, Bob Compton, J. Frank Dobie, Bob Flynn, Jean Flynn, Leon Hale, Elmer Kelton, Gary Lavergne, James Ward Lee, Jane Monday, Joyce Roach, Ellen Temple, Walter Prescott Webb, and Jane Roberts Wood. There is something for the cook as well as for the Texan with a raft of takeaway menus on their refrigerator.

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Tales of Texas Cooking:

Stories and Recipes from the Trans Pecos to the Piney Woods and High Plains to the Gulf Prairies

Edited by Frances B. Vick

Publications of the Texas Folklore Society LXX

Kenneth L. Untiedt, General Series Editor

University of North Texas Press Denton Texas 2015 Texas Folklore Society All - photo 1

University of North Texas Press

Denton, Texas

2015 Texas Folklore Society

All rights reserved.
Printed in the United States of America.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Permissions:
University of North Texas Press
1155 Union Circle #311336
Denton, TX 76203-5017

The paper used in this book meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, z39.48.1984. Binding materials have been chosen for durability.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Tales of Texas cooking : stories and recipes from the Trans Pecos to the Piney Woods and High Plains to the Gulf prairies / edited by Frances Brannen Vick. -- Edition: first.
pages cm. -- (Publications of the Texas Folklore Society ; LXX) includes index.
ISBN 978-1-57441-618-3 (cloth : alk. paper) -- ISBN 978-1-57441-628-2 (ebook)
1. Cooking--Texas. 2. Tales--Texas. 3. Texas--Social life and customs. I. Vick, Frances Brannen, 1935 editor. II. Series: Publications of the Texas Folklore Society ; no. 70.
TX715.2.S69T35 2015
641.59764--dc23
2015031823

Tales of Texas Cooking: Stories and Recipes from the Trans Pecos to the Piney Woods and High Plains to the Gulf Prairies is Number LXX in the Publications of the Texas Folklore Society

The electronic edition of this book was made possible by the support of the Vick Family Foundation.

Dedicated to Francis Edward Abernethy who brought so much to the Society that - photo 2

Dedicated

to

Francis Edward Abernethy

who brought so much to the Society that it cannot be measured.
He became editor of publications in 1971, taking over from Dobie, Boatright, Hudson and others, becoming a giant among giants for the 33 years he reigned.

He wrote, The purpose of the Texas Folklore Society isto let that light so shine among men that all the world, but Lord, most especially Texans may see the richness of the land and its people and its continuity. In this land and its history and its people Texans must realize the place of their belonging, a mother land to moisten with their sweat, and finally to nourish with their bones.

Rest in Peace, Ab Abernethy.
You will be sorely missed and always remembered by the Texas Folklore Society you so loved.

CONTENTS
PREFACE

This Publication of the Texas Folklore Society (#70) was several years in the making, gathering all the ingredients and carefully mixing them together to get this final product. Okay, that was as close to a pun as I'll come when describing what it took to create the book that you hold in your hands. As you can tell, it contains a lot of recipes; however, I trust that you'll come to find that it's much more than a mere cookbook that features the many diverse foods that people from Texas enjoy cooking and eating. This volume contains the lore that explains what is significant about those foods, and why they mean so much to us as a culture. Food is essential to everyone's existence, of course, but the rituals, recipes, and events behind what and how we eat are what bring us together and identify us as a group. Many cultural groups exist in Texas and the Southwest, but by examining the ways those groups celebrate their foods and the customs associated with them proves that the way we process and consume the nutrients vital to our survival is about much more than merely sustaining lifeit's what binds us together.

In addition to a brief Preface, this PTFS includes an Introduction; this first chapter was written by Fran Vick, and it takes a deeper look at the reasoning behind doing an entire publication on this topic. She explains that these recipesand especially the stories behind themprovide insight into intimate memories of family gatherings and loved ones who are no longer with us. The stories also commemorate the customs, rituals, foods, and methods passed down from one generation to another. Many of these works reveal the private feelings and experiences of the contributors, but in the end the food lore represented in this book is something that we can all relate to, in some way or another.

I'm grateful for Fran's efforts, to say the least. As much as I wanted to see this book done, I just couldn't seem to get the types of contributions necessary; Fran asked to take it over, and I gladly accepted her offer. She had apparently been interested in the project from the time I first announced my intentions, and she wanted to take on the role as guest-editor. I turned over the files we had collected, Fran added what she had already, and then she began calling individually on others she knew had something to contribute. You'll find that some of the pieces have been printed elsewhere, either exactly as you see them here, or in another form, with some variation to make them more completely fit our purpose with this publication.

I thank Fran for her hard work on putting this volume together. I also give thanks to all of the contributors who wrote articles for this book. As always, I thank my colleagues and administrators at Stephen F. Austin State University who support the Society's efforts: Mark Sanders, Chair of the Department of English, and Brian Murphy, Dean of the College of Liberal and Applied Arts. I again thank the folks at the UNT Press for their dedication to the Texas Folklore Society and our long tradition of preserving and presenting the lore of Texas and the Southwest.

Although I usually provide some sort of dedication for each PTFS, this time Fran is doing that specifically.

Kenneth L. Untiedt
Stephen F. Austin State University
Nacogdoches, Texas
May 25, 2015

INTRODUCTION

by Frances B. Vick

Picture 3

When Ken Untiedt announced the topic of a Texas Folklore Society cookbook publication, my mind went off in several different directions. One of the first was remembering what that Renaissance womanJean Andrews, The Pepper Ladyhad written about food: Although food is eaten as a response to hunger, it is much more than filling one's stomach to satisfy nutritional requirements; it is also a premeditated selection and consumption process providing emotional fulfillment. The way in which food is altered reveals the function of food in society and the values that society supports. So, the members of the Texas Folklore Society would not only be giving the recipe(s) of a particular food eaten in their family, they would also be telling the story of their people who ate it and defining them as well.

Another interesting comment of Jean's was her surprise at the lack of study of foodways. And indeed, the study of foodways was for a long time neglected, which is peculiar since all of us have to partake of food to survive. Some have felt that the reason it was not studied was that food preparation was basically a duty of the female, but that doesn't hold water when you think of the cowboys on the trail, the buffalo hunters, the army, the Texas Rangers, and other men who have wandered the trails of Texas. See, for example, Riley Froh's piece on Government Packer Grub or Robert Wilson's journal. However, Jean would be surprised today to see that the lack of study has come to a halt. She could watch a whole television channel devoted to food, with its popularity gaining daily. Furthermore, there are very popular food shows on the major networks, all of them producing foodways stars. Indeed, foodways has become a burgeoning industry. The food stars are turning out books. Blogs and Facebook pages on the Internet are full of recipes and stories of food. Many of us are entertained by the chefsmale and femalewho have their own shows and are as famous as Rock stars.

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