Grace Young - The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen: Classic Family Recipes for Celebration and Healing

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SIMON & SCHUSTER EDITIONS

Rockefeller Center

1230 Avenue of the Americas

New York, NY 10020

www.SimonandSchuster.com

Copyright 1999 by Grace Young

All rights reserved, including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.

SIMON & SCHUSTER EDITIONS and colophon are trademarks of Simon & Schuster Inc.

D ESIGNED BY Vertigo Design, NYC

L IBRARY OF C ONGRESS C ATALOGING-IN -P UBLICATION D ATA

Young, Grace

The wisdom of the Chinese kitchen : classic family recipes for celebration and healing / Grace Young.

p. cm.

Includes index.

1. Cookery, Chinese. I. Title.

TX724.5.C5Y598 1999

641.5951dc21 98-48815

CIP

ISBN 0-684-84739-6

ISBN-13: 978-1-4391-4256-1 (eBook)

All photographs by Alan Richardson except for the photographs on pages from the Young and Fung family collection.

For M AMA and B ABA

and, of course,

M ICHAEL

Ancestor worship has been a tradition in China for thousands of years. Its practice is based on the belief that homage to ones ancestors recognizes their influence on ones existence. I have thought countless times that this cookbook is a modern-day act of filial piety. For in trying to record the recipes and family stories from my parents, aunties, and uncles, I honor our past for future generations. I wish to acknowledge the rich legacy not just of my grandparents or great-grandparents but of those relatives no longer with us. The list to whom I am indebted for their help and instruction in crafting this book is a long one. I offer my deep-felt thanks to the following family and friends and so many more: I would like to thank first and foremost Mama and Baba for this book owes its existence solely to them. They have bestowed upon me an enormous gift, answering questions, teaching me, and searching for information on my behalf. I know this project has been exhausting for my parents, and I thank them for their many sacrifices. The publication of this book coincides with their fiftieth anniversary, and I intend this as a fitting and auspicious tribute to them.

I am deeply indebted to my aunties and uncles who have shared recipes, generously taught their secrets for home cooking, recounted family stories and imparted their wisdom to me:

Samuel Fung, who read the stories and provided valuable insights. I am thankful for his patience in translating the Cantonese and his efforts to educate me in Chinese culture.

Katheryn Louie, who meticulously read the stories, confirmed the Chinese characters, and offered her expert counsel.

Margaret Lee, who gave the book its Chinese name and advised on many questions.

Anna Kwock, whose unconditional support and encouragement is always a blessing.

Auntie Lily (Mrs. K. L. Woo), who shared her wise expertise in Chinese cooking.

Lily and Philip Woo, who taught me so many of their recipes and willingly answered my many questions.

Many thanks to Young Shee Jew (Yee Gu Ma), Donald and Lulu Young, Elaine Ho, Herbert and Ivy Fung, Helen Fung, Bertha Jew, William and Lillian Jew, Roy and Betty Yim, Sherman and Frances Young, Shirley Jew, and Calvin and Bernice Jew.

Many thanks to my cousins who have been so helpful:

Fred Maquire Chow, whose encouragment and incredible belief in this book made an enormous difference.

Katherine Jew Lim, whose willingness to help in any way and friendship have always been a treasure.

Cindy Jew Fun, who supported this project from the beginning, sharing her recipes and answering my incessant questions.

With thanks to Sylvia Jew Chow, Jeanette Wong, Loretta Lee Seeley, Gloria Lee, and Craig Morita. And to Dorie Yim Song who wanted to contribute more.

Special thanks to my grandmother, Fung Tong Lai Lan, and my brother Douglas Young.

Yu Zhen Chen Mei taught me incredible lessons beyond cooking. It was a privilege to learn to shop and to cook by her side. She was a fountain of wisdom and culinary knowledge and I shall always treasure our sessions together.

I have been blessed to have many friends who offered their expertise in this cookbook:

This book began with the beautiful images my dear friend Alan Richardson photographed during my familys Chinese New Years celebration. The photographs were the inspiration that helped me to visualize the possibility of this becoming a cookbook. My profound thanks to Alan for contributing his artistry and genius.

I am grateful to have Janice Easton as my editor. With her partially Chinese soul she has understood this book from the beginning. Heartfelt thanks for making this book a reality through her outstanding editorial guidance.

Martha Kaplan, my agent, recognized the potential of this book in its raw proposal stage and helped me to refine the proposal and find the perfect editor.

Special thanks to Laura Cerwinske, who gave invaluable advice and critique to the stories, and helped me to find my writing voice.

Kate Slate, who was instrumental in getting the recipes in shape (and to Julien for making this possible).

Evie Righter, whose insightful feedback and masterful guidance helped to elevate this book. My deepest gratitude for her exacting eye in reading the recipes and stories.

Liz Trovato, who created the exquisite cover design and has been an incredible friend throughout. I am ever appreciative.

Ray Furse, for bringing the book to Frankfurt when I was close to giving up, and for his graciousness in always answering my questions on all things Chinese.

Lisa Koenig, for her generosity in rephotographing my familys old photographs and for the exceptional how-to photographs.

Dr. Jacqueline Newman, who has been a wonderful friend to call upon for her expertise in Chinese cooking and who provided some of the nutritional information on Chinese vegetables. I am grateful for the existence of her publication Flavor and Fortune, whose purpose is to further the advancement of the science and art of Chinese cuisine.

Pamela Thomas, for her encouragement and help in writing the proposal at the beginning.

Special thanks to Kam Toa Miu and Professor Luke Hongzhi Yang, L.Ac., for their consultation on Chinese herbs.

Special thanks to Art Directors Katy Riegel and Jackie Seow, Production Editor Philip Metcalf, Senior Production Manager Peter McCulloch, and Publicist Mary Ellen Briggs for their help and guidance.

Generous thanks to: Stevie Bass, Barbara Chan, Grace Choi, Gerald Couzens, Neil Crumley, Andrea DiNoto, Alex Fatalevich, Chris and Jim Di Filippo, Larry Frascella, Rodney Friedman, Joan Golden, Scott Hunt, Zina Jasper, Tom Keane, H. T. King, Kathy Farrel Kingsley, Teresa Lam, Alessandra Mortola, Brad Paris, Kim Park, Marjorie Poore, Elizabeth Rice, Linda Russo, Bonnie Slotnick, Julia Stambules, Susie and P. C. Tang, Richard F. Ting, and Betty Tsang.

With thanks to everyone at Vertigo Design for the brilliant interior design. Thanks to David Goodrich at Bird Track Press for the Chinese calligraphy.