Connie Roos - Walking in Norway

WALKING IN NORWAY

by
Constance Roos

2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
www.cicerone.co.uk

Constance Roos 1997

ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 230 7

ISBN-10: 1 85284 230 X

First printed 1998. Reprinted 2000, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2014

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore.

All Photographs, Route Profiles, and Legend by the Author

Trail Maps by Carto Graphics, San Francisco

Acknowledgements

Many Norwegians, in town and on the trail, helped make my days in their country special. Some invited me to join them on their walk; others patiently gave directions; many lightened my days with a bit of English conversation. This walking guide would not be complete without mention of my special friends who shared Norways mountains with me: Dale and Marie Blanchard of Newark, California; Susan Degutz of Staten Island, New York; and Unni Bjerke of Drammen, Norway. Others graciously helped me with the day-to-day preparation of this book: Robert Shankland provided expert editiorial guidance; Jason Mitchell helped with translation; professional cartographic assistance was provided by Kris Bergstrom and Story Rafter of Carto Graphics, San Francisco. Kaare and Karin Meland of Bergen offered friendship and hospitality on numerous occasions, and took time to review parts of the manuscript. Other chapters were read by Unni Bjerke, Marian Halley, Kathleen Rayna, and Sarah Roos.

Advice to Readers

While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. If we know of any there will be an Updates tab on this books page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to info@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

Cicerone Press Guides by the same author: The Grand Canyon

Front cover: Tremendous two-tiered waterfall

When all the world has grown a bore,
And all your life hard lines,
Come hither! Peak and pine no more,
Mid Norways peaks and pines.

An ancient vane

Lets take a closer look at the Land of the Midnight Sun. Norway, forming the western side of the Scandinavian peninsula, shares a common border with Sweden in the east and in the north with Finland and Russia. The North Cape, northernmost point of the European continent at 71N, lies on a latitude parallel with Point Barrow, Alaska. Norways southernmost point, Lindesnes, at 58N falls on a parallel with northern Scotland. To the south across the North Sea lies Denmark. Norway, at its longest from the southwest to the northern tip, extends about 1752 kilometres. At its widest it measures 430 kilometres, and at its narrowest 6.7 kilometres. Its immense jagged coastline is thought to total about 50,000 kilometres long, greater than the distance around the world. This figure includes the fjords and the 150,000 offshore islands of which only about 2000 are inhabited. The entire country encompasses 386,958 square kilometres, 30% covered by forests, rivers and lakes, and 70% consisting of rugged mountainous terrain. Less than 4% of Norways land is cultivated, leaving 96% as a playground for the walker and ski tourer. The Open Air Act of 1957 guarantees every Norwegians (and visitors) freedom to roam in the countryside. One-third of Norway lies above the Arctic Circle, where for at least one full day per year the sun never sets and for one full day it never rises.

The population density of Norway is the lowest of any country in Europe. Most of the 4 million Norwegians live along the southern coast, half in cities and built-up areas. The Sami, the indigenous people of the Far North, number about 40,000 and are a distinct ethnic group with their own language and culture.

I hope that this book will encourage visitors to explore the Norwegian mountains. You will find some of the most beautiful mountain landscape in the world. Unlike what you find in many of the alpine areas of Central Europe, these mountains are relatively free from crowds, and few roads criss-cross through this remote landscape. Providing an ideal setting for the walker, cairned routes twist through splendid scenery and link up with comfortable mountain lodges. You will meet a kind and proud people who will enthusiastically share with you their love for their mountains.

A keen walker can be remarkably self-sufficient within this system. Provisions and bedding are supplied at over 320 mountain lodges, most maintained by Den Norske Turistforening (Norwegian Mountain Touring Association) and its associated organizations. Given ample time and energy, you can venture through the mountains of Norway for months without having to go into town for any reason. Your adventurous ramblings will be slowed only by the early swirling snows of September, as the reddish hues of autumn tone the mountainside, and hint of the coming winter.

Equipped with map and compass, you can wander onto other routes and trails toward your nights destination. As some of Norways mountain areas have had to be excluded here, the books descriptions are not to be considered comprehensive. This book cannot be taken as a substitute for common sense and good judgement. Nor is it a manual for the novice. Walkers should have some previous experience before venturing out into the mountains alone. Inexperienced visitors would do well to take advantage of the guided tours available. Though low elevation and seemingly gentle slopes invite the eager beginner, she/he must not forget that these mountains harbour all the usual hazards and challenges of any alpine area.

View the jagged spires of the Jotunheimen, climb the high peaks of the Rondane, explore the isolated arctic mountains of the Troms Border Trail, and ramble along the mountain plateau of the Hardangervidda. You can wander for days without a bother, and leave the cares of the city behind. Feel, as I have, as if you are on top of the world. God Tur!

Near Breisjseter looking towards the Rondane, Alvdal Vestfjell. (Route 10)

Troll welcomes you to Norway, (these legendary creatures live throughout the mountains of Norway)

PART I: HELPFUL INFORMATION

CHAPTER 1:

Using this Book

Now shall I walk
Or shall I ride?
Ride, Pleasure said,
Walk, Joy replied.

W. H. Davies

This book is organized into two parts. Part I, Helpful Information, gives general details on the books organization, how to travel around Norway, and tips on Norwegian mountain walking.

Part II, The Routes, describes 20 selected walking routes in Norway, covering the South to the Far North. Many tours can be shortened or lengthened as you wish. Walks are described as hut to hut tours, but it is always possible to camp. The Route Tables provide basic information such as distance, number of days needed, grading, the nearest base or supply area, the closest major access point, and start and end points. Each route description has a fact panel, day-to-day descriptions, and information on alternative routes and access.