About the Author
Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 100 books to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications, and has appeared on radio and television.
Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them.
Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britains National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, Tibet, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. Paddy is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and President of the Backpackers Club.
WALKING THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
NATIONAL TRAIL FROM MINEHEAD TO SOUTH HAVEN POINT
by Paddy Dillon
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
Paddy Dillon 2021
Third edition 2021
ISBN 9781783628605
Second edition
First edition 2003
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Crown copyright 2021 OS PU100012932
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. This guidebook was researched and written before the COVID-19 pandemic. While we are not aware of any significant changes to routes or facilities at the time of printing, it is likely that the current situation will give rise to more changes than would usually be expected. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/1068/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time.
We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL.
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Front cover: Rocky headlands at Ilfracombe in North Devon (Stage 4)
Contents
CONTENTS
The Coast Path passes Swansford Hill on a stretch that features many steep ascents and descents (Stage 9)
ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE
The Coast Path is usually scenic, obvious, well signposted and well trodden Soap Rock (Stage 22)
INTRODUCTION
The South West Coast Path offers 630 miles (1014km) of splendid coastal walking
The South West Coast Path is the longest of Britains National Trails, measuring a staggering 1014km (630 miles). It is not just a long walk, but an astounding and varied experience. This remarkable coastal trail is based on the paths trodden around cliffs and coves by generations of coastguards. The route starts in Minehead on the Somerset coast and quickly moves along the North Devon coast. After completely encircling the coast of Cornwall, it runs along the South Devon coast. A final stretch along the Dorset coast leads to a conclusion at South Haven Point on Poole Harbour. No other stretch of British coastline compares for scenic splendour, interest, history, heritage, accessibility and provision of facilities all rolled into one.
A fit and dedicated long-distance walker would take a month to walk the South West Coast Path. The current record, set by Kristian Morgan in September 2020, stands at 10 days 12 hours 6 minutes. Others are happy to enjoy the experience, savour the delights of the trail, and take two months or more to cover the distance. Hardy backpackers happily carry a tent, sleeping bag and cooking equipment, while others prefer to mix youth hostels with B&B accommodation. Some walkers prefer a luxurious approach, staying in splendid hotels while sampling local seafood menus. The South West Coast Path appeals to all types, but remember that many facilities are only open through the summer season.
Cosy fishing harbours abound, but many locals now work in tourism instead. Polperro (Stage 28)
Individual approaches vary. Some walkers crave to cover the whole trail in a single expedition, while others take a weekend here and there, and make an occasional week-long trip, to complete the distance over a year or two. You must walk within your limitations, covering distances that are comfortable for you, choosing accommodation that suits your tastes and pocket. Allow time to visit museums and heritage centres, if you have a passion for local history, or to observe birds along the cliff coasts if you are interested in wildlife. Given the nature and complexity of the coast, it makes sense not to rush, but to enjoy the experience.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Itineraries
Almost every town and village offers some refreshment (Cadgwith on Stage 23)
While some might be daunted at the prospect of walking for weeks on end, staying somewhere different every night, while keeping themselves fed and watered, it is simply a matter of careful planning. Almost every town and village along the way offers some kind of accommodation and refreshment, but its always useful to know whats available in advance.
This guidebook describes the whole trail from Minehead to Poole Harbour, indicating the level of services along the way. The route is well marked with Coast Path signposts and standard National Trail acorn symbols. Read each section before setting out. You might, for example, need to ensure that ferries are running across awkward tidal rivers, or secure accommodation in advance in summer, or you might like to know if the next sandy cove has a beach caf. Break the route into manageable sections to suit your own ability. Theres no need to stick slavishly to the daily breakdown given in this book, as there are usually plenty of intermediate places where you can halt.