About the Author
Dr Terry Marsh (www.terrymarsh.com) is a Lancashire-based award-winning writer and photographer who specialises in the outdoors, the countryside, walking and travel. He has been writing books since the early 1980s, and is the author, co-author or revision author of more than 120 titles.
Terry has an extensive interest in Cumbria and the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, Lancashire, the Peak District, Wales, the Scottish islands and the Isle of Man.
He holds a PhD in Historical Geography and a Master of Arts degree (with Distinction) in Lake District Studies, is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, and a Life Member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
The Coast to Coast Walk
Geocaching in the UK
Great Mountain Days in Snowdonia
Great Mountain Days in the Pennines
Walking on the Isle of Man
Walking on the Isle of Mull
Walking on the Isle of Skye
The Severn Way
The West Highland Way
Walking in the Forest of Bowland and Pendle
Walking on the West Pennine Moors
THE DALES WAY
FROM ILKLEY TO THE LAKE DISTRICT THROUGH THE YORKSHIRE DALES
by Terry Marsh
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
Terry Marsh 2018
Third edition 2018
ISBN: 978 1 85284 943 6
Second edition 2005
First edition 1992
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
The 1:25K map booklet contains Ordnance Survey data Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932
Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Crown copyright 2018 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI
This book is dedicated to the memory of our beloved lab-spaniel, Teal, who walked the entire route at its last revision, vaulted every stile, and, being a wannabe trout, sampled every stream and river until finally she could swim with the ducks and swans in Lake Windermere. Sadly, Teal is no longer with us, but her memory lives on.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/943/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time.
If you find accommodation listed here that is closed or unwelcoming to walkers, or know of suitable accommodation that we have left out, please let us know. Similarly, if you are an accommodation provider who would like to be added to the list, or taken off the list, do get in touch. The most up-to-date version of Appendix B, based on reader feedback, can be downloaded from www.cicerone.co.uk/943/accommodation.
We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL.
Register your book : To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.
Front cover: Heading to Bolton Abbey alongside the Wharfe (Stage 1)
CONTENTS
Riverside loveliness along the Wharfe north of Burnsall (Stage 2)
Lush meadows in Springtime, above Beckfoot (Stage 5)
ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE
PREFACE
It is 25 years since I worked on the first edition of this guidebook, and in the meantime, I have re-walked every part of the Dales Way more than once while working on other projects.
When it came to this new edition, I again walked the route in its entirety between October 2016 and August 2017. The enchantment I experienced during that first effort has reduced not one iota the Dales Way is every bit as beautiful and charming and agreeable as ever it was. In some ways, because odd kinks have been ironed out and some passages improved, the entire route is rather better than it was, although overall little has changed. This still ranks as the finest multi-day walking route in Britain on which to cut your teeth.
Having several long-distance walks under my belt, I know the importance of maintaining daily progress, of not falling behind schedule, especially if time is limited. But I also know that too much progress can focus your mind more on the end of the walk rather than what there is to enjoy along the way. Keeping going, sticking to 22, 25, 28km (14, 16, 18 miles) each day, simply becomes a route march, and if you apply those tactics to the Dales Way you will be back home in no time, and possibly wondering what all the fuss was about, largely having missed the point.
With so much of interest concentrated in so (comparatively) short a walk, for a full enjoyment of the process it is vital to allow time to explore and potter about, to paddle in the streams and rivers, to visit churches (and pubs), to get something of a feel for the lifestyle that permeates the course of the Way and of the history that has fashioned the land it traverses. Generally, it is not a bad idea to take your cue from the rivers you will follow nowhere do they charge headlong, save for the odd moment of madness, preferring to meander gently, switching this way and that to inspect nooks and crannies, going with the flow. You should do the same.
Terry Marsh
January 2018
Easy woodland walking around Brigflatts (Stage 5)
INTRODUCTION
About the Dales Way
The total distance of the Dales Way is 126km (78.5 miles), give or take a few strides. Officially, the Way begins in Ilkley, but there are links to Leeds, Bradford and Harrogate that introduce a special dynamic of starting in major urban centres and walking out into the countryside, to the shores of Englands largest lake. These links are not included in this guide, but details can be downloaded from www.dalesway.org/link_routes.htm.