Fiona McCarthy - London Precincts: A Curated Guide to the City’s Best Shops, Eateries, Bars and Other Hangouts

CONTENTS

London is a big city. Theres no rhyme or rhythm to the street patterns, unlike New York, and theres little of the expansive, wide, airy boulevards of Paris. Everything is a hodge podge of ideas, too many building sites, and diverse and iconic architecture some of it centuries old and so beautiful it stops you in your tracks. There are crazy people, rattling black cabs, cyclists zipping through streets never designed to cope with so much traffic; and, of course, every ethnicity and culture on the planet, happily rubbing alongside each other.

Its this diversity that enriches every Londoners daily life and brings out some endearing quirks. While the Brits enjoy bemoaning the weather (although it really doesnt rain half as much as everyone says it does, honest), theyre also very good at saying sorry (even when its you whos bumped into them). They queue in neat orderly lines with never a thought to pushing in. And even though theyre often reluctant to make eye contact on the Tube, theyll quite happily chat away to you on the bus.

When I travel, I plan my day around visiting a key cultural spot and then work out what else there is to see nearby, so Ive taken a similar approach with this book. London has it all luxury designer shops, Michelin-starred restaurants, groovy cafes, amazing high street shopping, the Royal family! With so much to include, Ive focused mostly on the things that feel distinctively British, and I have no doubt you can work out the rest simply by wandering around this big, beautiful city. Do plan ahead, though, if theres a play or exhibition you want to see or a special afternoon tea or dinner you want to try its a busy city and places get booked out.

Ive lived in London for more than 20 years and Ive walked almost every inch of it as a freelance writer and stylist Ive been so lucky to have access to buildings usually closed to the outside world and to meet the citys best chefs, designers, shopkeepers and artisans. And I still dont feel I know everything about the capital, and I doubt I ever will.

Fiona McCarthy

Theres too much to do in a day in London, so if I could eulogise over the perfect day in this beautiful city, I would break it down into dream scenarios.

On a sunny day, I would start with a long walk from home, venturing along the leafy-lined Grand Western Canal to the basin at Little Venice (its the spot to catch the London Waterbus for an idyllic cruise down Regents Canal with stop-offs at London Zoo and Camden Lock). From here, walking via the Westway underpass to Paddington, Id keep heading south, in the direction of Hyde Park but then detour left to Connaught Street for coffee and delicious cake, served on pretty plates at Cocomaya; a window browse of the gems at De Roemer; the sweet indie-label fashions in Viola; and glittery heels at Lucy Choi, Jimmy Choos niece. From here its a quick walk, via the fountains at Marble Arch, to Mayfair and the West End. Theres always a great exhibition at the and Cos next door.

Alternatively, I might head south-west across Hyde Park and down Exhibition Road to the for the latest exhibition, a visit to the ceramics and fashion departments, coffee by the outdoor reflective pool and a browse around the addictive gift shop.

If I was feeling glam, a late afternoon glass of bubbles at either ; or Claridges Michelin-starred farm-to-fork take on British seasonality at Fera (and for a real treat, a spot at Aulis, his six-seater experimental kitchen); or Koffmanns for delicious updated French classics. More often, though, I love to head to the theatre my favourites include the Hampstead, National or Royal Court or a gig at the Roundhouse in Camden or the Eventim Apollo in Hammersmith.

If I was staying local, I love to meet friends for breakfast at , Im addicted to Alices embroidered scarves) and have coffee and cake at Granger & Co on Westbourne Grove. Or Id meet friends at Melrose and Morgan in Primrose Hill for delicious coffee, pastries and bowls of salads. Id pop in for a look at the fashions at Anna and the homewares in Graham & Green; then a walk through the park to the top of Primrose Hill for spectacular views of London. Its not too far to walk over the railway bridge (past gorgeous lifestyle store Tann Rokka), down Chalk Farm Road to Camden Stables Market for its eclectic mix of food stalls and vintage dealers.

Sunday mornings are family time. We might head to for its beautiful landscaping.

For an adventure further afield, nothing beats driving very slowly (maximum speed 20 miles per hour) through Richmond Park, to admire the herds of deer, followed by a kitchen garden lunch at heavenly Petersham Nurseries, with tables set in Victorian greenhouses. Or have a good romp across Hampstead Heath, followed by lunch at the 16th century Spaniards Inn.

And if I wanted to escape for the weekend, theres nowhere better than Babington House in Somerset (I could disappear into its walled garden spa, never to be seen again) or The Pig on the Beach, overlooking Studland Bay, in Dorset.

In many ways Soho is the very heart of central London, always busy and noisy; its big neon lights around Piccadilly illuminating the sky. Soho is defined by Oxford Circus to the north, Regent Street to the west, Piccadilly Circus to the south and Leicester Square to the east.

Smart shops, coffee bars and hip restaurants are replacing the areas 20th century notoriety for naughty nightclubs, gangsters and call girls, but Soho will always have a slightly gritty edge. Its also the home of the West End theatre district it just wouldnt be a true London experience without seeing at least one play or musical here.

SHOP

SHOP AND EAT

EAT

EAT AND DRINK

Carnaby Street is best known as home to Swinging London of the sixties where designers like Mary Quant set up shop (and The Rolling Stones performed at the now long-gone Marquee Club a stones throw away in Wardour Street). Today, it refers not just to the main drag but to the surrounding area that includes Kingly, Newburgh, Marshall and Beak streets and Fouberts Place. Its a particularly good spot for shopping for the boys the Mod legacy lives on with brands such as Lambretta, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry and Pretty Green (former Oasis lead singer Liam Gallaghers fashion label). Take a trip to the barbers at Pankhurst, find fine British-made accessories by sixth generation tailors at Peckham Rye, and check out cool camera kit at Lomography. Trainer geeks need look no further than Adidas Originals, Puma, Superga, Vans and Nike SB (exclusively for skateboarders, 1st floor, 3334 Carnaby Street). Theres plenty of hip streetwear for the girls too Supertrash, Diesel, Cheap Monday and Monki. Enjoy great coffee at Department of Coffee and Social Affairs (Lowndes Court) or Urban Tearooms (Kingly Street). For sweet tooths, try cupcakes with a twist (flavours include Mexican Hot Chocolate, Cherry Bakewell or Butterered Popcorn) from