Ben Holbrook - Barcelona Precincts: A Curated Guide to the City’s Best Shops, Eateries, Bars and Other Hangouts

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CONTENTS

Barcelona captured my imagination from the very first time a friend told me about it. I leafed through old guidebooks, gazing at photos of Antoni Gauds bizarre buildings and dreaming of one day moving there. Today, eight years after moving to the city, I feel almost as Spanish as I do British, even if my language skills still leave a lot to be desired. I am fortunate that my work allows me to share the locals immense cultural pride and celebrate the citys fascinating historical heritage.

Every day I am inspired by the citys rapturous blend of old and new I love how the Old Towns ancient past is ever present in its labyrinthine backstreets, yet theres always something new on the horizon. From Picasso to Hemingway, Gaud to Dal, this sun-struck seducer has played muse to some of the worlds greatest artists, yet its thriving contemporary art scene continues to provide a cavalier sense of progress. Its this harmony that characterises Barcelona a deep respect for what once was, but also for what could be.

This book features the best places to shop, eat and drink in Barcelonas 12 hottest barrios (neighbourhoods). Ive tried to include something for all tastes and budgets, and ultimately offer an authentic insight into local life. Whether you want to eat tapas like the fishermen of old or shop like the glitterati, youll find something within these pages to arouse your curiosity.

This book is packed with places that celebrate the beauty of Barcelona its food culture, sunny streets, and focus on living the good life but I encourage you to explore and get lost. Find your own special places and magic moments. This city rewards the curious, embraces wanderers and welcomes the wild at heart.

Ben Holbrook

Barcelonas the kind of city you could dedicate a lifetime to exploring. But if I had only one day here, I know exactly how I would spend it. These are my personal favourite hangouts a few regular haunts that are well worth working into your itinerary.

I like to explore the iconic (and typically tourist-choked) boulevard of La Rambla first thing in the morning, when the stalls are just squeaking into action and the street performers can be seen getting into character. Once the crowds begin to pick up, I dart down one of the many narrow streets that wend their way into the Gothic Quarter. No matter how many times I visit, I always discover new ateliers, restaurants and time-transcending plaas (squares). My favourites are Plaa de Sant Felip Neri, with its battle-scarred walls and old (but still functioning) school, and Plaa Sant Just i Pastor, with its 14th-century basilica and romantic cafe terraces.

From there, I mosey my way over to the charming neighbourhood of Born. The streets here are wider and sunnier, lined with more sophisticated stores like . One of my absolute favourite spots is Plaa de Santa Maria, where I explore local wines and soak in the views of the 14th-century Basilica Santa Maria del Mar. From here its a gentle jaunt to the Museu Picasso or the palm-filled gardens of Parc de la Ciutadella.

Midday is when the locals head out to meet friends for a sociable pre-lunch drink or to fer el vermut (do the vermouth), as they say. I enjoy mine at . Their coffee is great, too, and the little peaceful square out front is the ideal place to enjoy a sweet treat. My perfect day wouldnt be complete without a visit to Sagrada Famlia, Antoni Gauds colossal and infamously unfinished church, to check on its progress.

As the afternoon shifts into evening, I like to head down to Barceloneta for a drink by the beach at , which boasts sweeping vistas across the sands. I like to take my paddleboard out for a gentle cruise around the bay in front of the W Hotel.

At around 8pm, its time for pre-dinner drinks. Im a regular at craft beer bar on ultra-trendy Carrer del Parlament in Sant Antoni and am a big fan of their Belgian-Catalan hybrid beers.

If this was my last dinner in Barcelona, then it would simply have to be at .

THE FAMOUS FIVE

Park Gell, Grcia

Antoni Gauds otherworldly park offers sweeping vistas over the city and is home to the Gaud House Museum where the architect lived for almost 20 years.

La Sagrada Famlia, Dreta de lEixample

This colossal church is Barcelonas most emblematic landmark and Antoni Gauds most ambitious design project.

Museu Picasso, Born

This spectacular collection of more than 4000 works of art celebrates the formative years of Pablo Picasso and the time he spent in Barcelona.

Magic Fountain, Sants-Montjuc

An awe-inspiring light, water and music show that takes place in the shadow of the imposing Palau Nacional (National Palace).

La Rambla, Gothic Quarter

Barcelonas most iconic boulevard (called Las Ramblas by locals, as it is actually a sense of ramblas [rambles]), cuts through the heart of the Old Town and is famous for its street performers, artists and flower stalls.

ARCHITECTURE

Casa Mil (La Pedrera), Dreta de lEixample

One of Gauds most celebrated works, this sinuous building is a prime example of Barcelonas world-renowned Modernist architecture.

Hospital Santa Creu i Sant Pau, Dreta de lEixample

Designed by Lluis Domnech i Montaner, a contemporary (and teacher) of the citys more famous Antoni Gaud, this colourful hospital is one of Europes most elegant.

Torre Glries (Torre Agbar), Poblenou

Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, this ultra-modern skyscraper is one of the tallest buildings in Barcelona and hosts a nocturnal light show with the 4500 LEDs that adorn its facade.

Santiago Calatravas Olympic Flame, Sants-Montjuc

This avant-garde communications tower was built to transmit television coverage of Barcelonas 1992 Olympic Games. Creator Santiago Calatrava designed it to resemble an athlete carrying the Olympic torch.

Casa Vicens, Grcia

One of the most recent Modernist buildings to be opened to the public, Casa Vicens was Gauds very first house-design commission and is said to mark the beginning of the Catalan Modernist movement in Barcelona.

PARKS & GARDENS

Parc de la Ciutadella, Born
Parc de Joan Mir, Esquerra de lEixample
Park Gell, Grcia
Jardi Botnic, Sants-Montjuc
El Parc del Centro del Poblenou, Poblenou

MUSEUMS & THEATRES

Gran Teatre del Liceu, Gothic Quarter

Dating back to 1847, this decadently designed auditorium is one of the worlds most prestigious performance venues.

Museu Maritm, Raval

Housed in the royal arsenal of Barcelona, this historic maritime space is dedicated to shipbuilding from the 13th to 18th centuries and features beautiful scaled models and full-size ships.

Centre de Cultura i Memria, Born

These fascinating archaeological remains date back to 1700 and depict life in Barcelona before and after the siege of 17131714.

Palau de la Msica, Born

Designed in the Catalan Modernist style by architect Llus Domnech i Montaner, this is one of the most beautiful and important concert halls in Spain.

Museu dHistoria de Barcelona (MUHBA), Gothic Quarter

A collection of 2000-year-old excavations, this is one of the largest Roman settlements ever discovered in Europe.

ART GALLERIES