Mark R. Weinberger - Minnesota Off the Beaten Path®: Discover Your Fun

If any part of Minnesota occupies a special place in the hearts of many residents, this is it. The appropriately named Arrowhead region encompasses thousands of square miles of untouched forest and impenetrable bogs, thousands of lakes, and the big lake itself, Superior. Nowhere else in the state will a traveler see such spectacular scenery. And though you will see countless scenic vistas of forest and water throughout the region, the Lake Superior shoreline truly defines the Arrowhead: rugged, isolated, and inhabited by people of hardy stock.

Drive along the shore of Lake Superior (we natives call it the North Shore, no other description needed) and youll see the vast body of icy freshwater bordered by thundering rivers toppling through narrow gorges, rocky outcrops that soar a thousand feet above the lake, and a vast forest of pine, birch, and maple. This region also has patches of the boreal forest, a special northern ecosystem that covers Canada up to the Arctic.

From I-35, the most direct route from the Twin Cities to Duluth, travelers will find a variety of roads from which to explore the Arrowhead. The best scenery in the region is along US 61 as it hugs the shore of Lake Superior. MN 1 climbs north from US 61 into the hills bordering the big lake and runs to Ely through thousands of square miles of pine forest. Leaving Lake Superior behind, many other highways cut through the countless square miles of tama-rack swamp, forest, and lakes.

ARROWHEAD

Aitkin, the largest town in the county, sits on the Mississippi River (at US 169 and Route 210) and owes its settlement in 1870 to a combination of the lumber industry, riverboats, and the railroad. Its also the site of the only diversion channel on the Mississippi. Although the town lacks a large tourist attraction, the residents have a sense of humor.

In 1991 Aitkin merchants, discouraged by the exodus of residents on shopping excursions to malls in bigger cities and tired of shoveling snow after a huge Thanksgiving Day storm, decided that a parade would draw people into town. And so began the Aitkin Fish House Parade, held annually the Fri after Thanksgiving. Each year the parade grows as word spreads. Entrants show up with fish houses of all shapes and sizes to help celebrate the return of winter.

Besides the whimsical, Aitkin also has an important bird habitat at nearby Rice Lake National Wildlife Refuge and throughout the county. Wildbird magazine called this area the best little unsung birding spot in America, and Aitkin County is becoming an important stop for serious bird-watchers. According to experts, the area has excellent bird-watching potential year-round. Harsh Canadian winters often force several species of owls south in search of food, and the low glacial hills of this region provide good habitat. Besides these winter visitors, many other species stop during their migration.

After spending a day bird-watching or admiring fish houses, you may be ready to kick back with a glass of fine wine. Surprisingly, theres no need to drive to some fancy restaurant with an extensive wine cellar. Minnestalgia Winery and Gift Shop, located about one-half mile north of McGregor on MN 65, (800) 328-6731 or minnestalgia.com, can take care of that craving. This winery located in the bog country of northern Minnesota bottles several varieties of wild berry wine, as well as one made from honey. They provide samples but do not have a restaurant or lounge.

AUTHORS FAVORITES

Cascade River State Park
west of Lutsen
(218) 387-3053

Iron Range
(800) 777-8497

Lake Superior

Temperance River State Park
east of Schroeder
(218) 663-7476

Fun in Aitkin County

While most chamber of commerce and convention bureau representatives tend to be friendly, some take themselves much too seriously. You wont find that the case with the Aitkin Area Chamber of Commerce. Besides having a very friendly and helpful executive director, the chamber of commerce reflects the towns sense of humor in their area guide. The partial list that follows shows you what I mean:

Useful Facts for First-time Visitors

Distance to Lake Wobegon: 1,200 miles and 16 toll booths

Electricity: Yes

Telephone: Yes

Highest Curb: Curb at Potter Bridge (Minnesota Avenue)

Cable TV: Yes

Parking meters: No

Most creative use of surveyors transit: Minnesota Avenue

Indoor plumbing: Yes

Climate: Yes

Most famous landmark: Our stoplight (only one in Aitkin County)

Sense of humor: Yooou-Bet!

This county received its name in 1858 after being part of three other Minnesota counties and one Wisconsin county. Kanabec (Kay-Nay-Bec) is the Ojibway Indian word for snake, which is also the name of the winding river that runs through the county before emptying into the St. Croix. The unremarkable landscape in this part of Minnesota is a mostly flat mix of wetlands and varied forest. In fact, more than 80 percent of the original wetlands of Kanabec County remain untouched.

Mora, named after its sister city of Mora, Sweden, is the largest town in the county and home to several fun athletic events. Cross-country ski racers know it as the home of the Mora Vasaloppet, the second-largest ski race in the United States and part of the three- race international Vasa series. This ski series has become more than a group of races. It has led to educational and cultural exchanges between the United States and the other two countries that hold Vasa races, Sweden and Japan.

Dala Horses

In 1972 Mora erected a large Dala Horse to reflect its Swedish heritage and sister-city ties. Measuring 22 feet high and 18 feet long, this landmark is a replica of the wooden Dala Horses carved by Swedish craftsmen.

The carving of Dala Horses began in the 1840s. Although two versions exist about who exactly started it, all seem to agree that the carvers chose the horse because they considered it the most valuable farm animal a family could own. The distinctive orange color and floral patterns painted on the Dala Horse came from the Dala paintings that decorated furniture and interior walls of Swedish homes. Carvers still do most of the work by hand, and because of this no two horses are exactly alike.

Besides the Vasaloppet, Mora also hosts a half marathon, a canoe race, and a bicycle tour for the athletically inclined. For those looking for less active endeavors, Kanabec and neighboring Isanti County host many other events, from the Braham Pie Day in Braham to the Corn on the Curb celebration in Ogilvie.

Along with a schedule of athletic events, Mora is also home to the Kanabec History Center (805 West Forest). This local museum features rotating exhibits that tell the story of the Swedish settlers who arrived in the area with virtually nothing and began a new life. An authentic rural school also occupies the museum site. For more information, call (320) 679-1665 or visit kanabechistory.org.

People from other parts of the country often comment about our Minnesota (Meen-eh-sootah to us natives) accents, which apparently came from our Scandinavian ancestors. If you doubt the significance of Swedish heritage in this area, take a look at the festival brochure the county produces. Its printed in Swedish as well as in English.

This north-central county defines the term geographic transition zone. As you drive from south to north in Minnesota, you will notice that the farms get smaller, the patches of forest get bigger, and the mix of crops changes. Pine County provides a perfect micro view of this transition. Although its not prime agricultural land, the southern part of the county has some decent-size dairy and livestock farms. In northern Pine County, the farms become fewer and smaller, while forests and bogs take over the landscape. Eastern Pine County borders the federally protected upper St. Croix River, one of the most scenic rivers in Minnesota.