Sanborn C. Brown - Wines and Beers of Old New England: A How to-Do-It History
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Wines and Beers of Old New England: A How to-Do-It History
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This book is written for people who like to go to folk museums, who like to collect antiques, who like to renovate old houses, and who like to drink, writes the author.
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Wines & Beers of Old New England : A How-to-do-it History
author
:
Brown, Sanborn Conner.
publisher
:
University Press of New England
isbn10 | asin
:
0874511488
print isbn13
:
9780874511482
ebook isbn13
:
9780585236551
language
:
English
subject
Wine and wine making--Amateurs' manuals, Brewing--Amateurs' manuals.
publication date
:
1978
lcc
:
TP548.2.B76 1978eb
ddc
:
663.2/0974
subject
:
Wine and wine making--Amateurs' manuals, Brewing--Amateurs' manuals.
Wines & Beers of Old New England
A How-to-Do-It History
Sanborn C. Brown
DRAWINGS BY ED LINDLOF
Page iv
UNIVERSITY PRESSOF NEW ENGLAND publishes books under its own imprint and is the publisher for Brandeis University Press, Dartmouth College, Middlebury College Press, Univer sity of New Hampshire, Tufts University, and Wesleyan University Press
University Press of New England, Hanover, NH 03755 1978 by Trustees of Dartmouth College All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America to 10 9 8 7 6 5 4
ISBN (cloth): 0-87451-144-5 ISBN (paperback): 0-87451-148-8
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 77-72519
Page v
Contents
Preface
vii
Glossary
xi
1. Why Was It Important?
3
2. Where Did the Sugar Come From?
6
3. Beer
47
4. Apples and Ciders
78
5. Grapes
106
6. Family Wines
119
7. Hot Mixed Drinks
135
8. Cold Mixed Drinks
145
Further Reading
149
Index
151
Page vi
Dr. Benjamin Rush's Moral and Physical Thermometer from The Medical And Agricultural Register, Volume 1, Number 11, November 1806.
Page vii
Preface
This book is written for people who like to go to folk museums, who like to collect antiques, who like to renovate old houses, and who like to drink. There are abundant records of how our New England ancestors quenched their thirst, much of it in the form of old grandfather's tales, and some of it accurate enough so that if you really want to collect an old-fashioned beverage museum for yourself, it is both satisfying and fun.
Taste and smell are difficult to describe by the written or spoken word. To understand what the colonial Americans meant when they talked of small beer, applejack, or metheglin, it is not enough to describe what the beverages were and why they developed; you must actually drink, taste, and smell. That creates a problem. Few of us live in woods where we can chop down a forty-foot-high black birch tree whenever we want to make five gallons of birch beer, and even fewer have the readily available free labor of large families with many children brought up in a culture where they are expected to work for one another day and night. Yet to make five gallons of birch beer requires that every leaf bud be gathered from the forty-foot tree as flavoring for the finished drink as it was made in the eighteenth century. To reconcile the necessity of tasting with the impracticality of trying to recreate every old technique and method, I have carried on the investigation in double fashion. Once having successfully mastered the art of any particular drink, I have used the end product as a norm against which to test more practical recipes for our modern living. The book follows this procedure by including both the old and the new.
My aim is to describe and make real the history of the technology of wine and beer making in the New England frontier. This book differs markedly from the many volumes devoted to home wine and beer making. In general, those who find pleasure in mak-
Page viii
ing home-fermented drinks try to create equivalents to accepted types and tastes. Books and magazines abound to tell the enthusiast how to make beers and ales; yeasts are readily available to simulate clarets, burgundies, madeiras or champagnes; and success is gauged by how indistinguishable the home product is from the "genuine." This is very far from the idea of recreating an ancient taste. In terms of looks, a lovingly brewed lager, fermented with imported yeasts and clarified to a sparkling transparency, rivals in the eyes of the hobbyist the finest on today's market, but it is a far cry from the murky, muddy-looking porter that was so highly praised by the first president of the United States.
Only a tiny fraction of the farmers who brewed and fermented their beverages ever wrote down or recorded what they did, and much of what we know has therefore come down to us by notably unreliable oral history. No family recipes and techniques that old men say their grandfathers or their grandmothers used can be taken at face value. Nevertheless, by listening carefully to what is said and then transforming these comments into experimental practice, the technology can be recreated with considerable validity, and though many of the boasts of alcoholic potency or superb bouquet do not survive a scientific reconstruction of tastes and smells, we are probably much nearer the true state of the art as a result of this type of research. You will discover as you read these pages that they constitute a leisurely reconstruction of the past.
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