Dedicated to two very special sisters
My beloved late grandmother, Maman Malekan incredible woman to whom I was very close and loved so much. Miss you and think of you every single day.
My late great-aunt Mama Goharthe best cook in the family. How I wish Id spent more time in your kitchen learning from you and not just eating.
They just dont make women like you anymore. Hope Ive done you both proud.
Text copyright 2016 by Sabrina Ghayour
All rights reserved. The use of any part of this publication, reproduced, transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, or stored in a retrieval system without the prior written consent of the publisheror in the case of photocopying or other reprographic copying, license from the Canadian Copyright Licensing Agencyis an infringement of the copyright law.
Appetite by Random House and colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.
Originally published in the United Kingdom by Mitchell Beazley, a division of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd, London, in 2016.
Library and Archives of Canada Cataloguing in Publication is available upon request.
ISBN: 978-0-14-753033-2
eBook ISBN: 978-0-14-753034-9
Design and art direction by Octopus Publishing Group Ltd
Cover design by Marysarah Quinn
Photography by Haarala Hamilton
Published in Canada by Appetite by Random House,a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited
www.penguinrandomhouse.ca
v4.1
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Sirocco noun / si- roc -co /
Origin: Early 17th century; from Italian scirocco, based on Spanish Arabic sharq, east wind
A hot, dry wind blowing from east to westsometimes described as warm, spicy and sultry.
My heritage has given me great insight into understanding the favorite ingredients and flavors of Eastern cuisine, which gives me confidence when using Eastern ingredients. I am never afraid to be bold with my use of spices or flavorings, and I dont hold back when it comes to combining flavors and ingredients. But, in stark contrast to my heritage, I was raised in England and have the advantages of growing up with entirely different produce, ingredients, recipes and cooking techniques to those of my heritage. The result of this culinary cultural blending is that I have gained an understanding of how to combine the beautiful produce Ive grown up knowing with Eastern flavors to achieve perfectly balanced flavor combinations thatwhether subtle and aromatic or bold and punchyoften improve on the natural flavor of an ingredient.
These recipes are all inspired by flavors of the East but use the fresh produce, techniques and cooking styles of the West; hence the name Sirocco. None of these recipes are authentically Middle Easterninstead, I wanted to share my own style of uncomplicated, full-flavored recipes that reflect the kind of cooking I do the most.
I learned so much from the comments and wonderful feedback I had from my last book, Persiana, which prompted me to continue writing recipes that were straightforward and didnt rely on any particular ingredient to make them successful. I realized that many people feel the pressure to follow recipes to the letter, but Middle Eastern cooking just isnt rigid in that way. In fact, most home-style cooking isnt that way and the best recipes, the ones we keep making time and again, are those in which we can easily substitute an ingredient or two if needed, because in todays world, convenience and time are key factors.
Not everything has to be aggressively spiced or full of chile heat. Sometimes, a wonderful balance and delicate contrast of flavor can deliver a refined subtlety that initially you wouldnt have thought possible. It frustrates me when Middle Eastern food is summed up using the word spice or spicy because this isnt always the case and, often, it is about aromatics, citrus, the fragrance of herbs or even the way in which something is cooked and served. Other times, it can be incredibly simple and pared right down to a key ingredientan eggplant, simply grilled and served with yogurt, for example. Often, the simplicity of Eastern cuisine is overlooked when, in most cases, the real food of the East is humble, uncomplicated and simple.
I use many of the same spices and pantry ingredients from summer into winter. They see me right through the year, from creating the much-needed comfort of wintry, warming stews to the light and refreshing dishes we crave during the warmer months, when fresh produce is green and abundant. Sirocco contains bold, vibrant flavor combinations that are great for everyday cooking or for more elaborate get-togethers, in recipes that are still very much steeped in the roots of Middle Eastern cooking, but with a fresher, lighter approach thats more conducive to everyday cooking and enjoyment.
Whether you are looking to prepare several dishes for a family meal or for just a single simple recipe, you can take what you want from this book. If you need a little useful inspiration for breakfast, lunch or dinner, or simply ideas for something to snack on alongside drinks with friends, there is something for everyone. The recipes use accessible ingredients to create unique but familiar dishes that are perfect for any occasion. If you are missing an ingredient, dont stressjust leave it out.
Hopefully, in your kitchen this book will get covered in oil spatter and food stains and remain close at hand (rather than buried under a pile of other books), full of recipes you turn to, time and time again, change and make your ownfood that is simply delicious, not Eastern or Western, just straightforward and satisfying.
MY KITCHEN PANTRY
The contents of your kitchen pantry say a lot about the kind of cook you are. Mine are so messy and crammed full of every little ingredient possible that I shudder to think what they say about me. There is no order, just chaos: my own kind of comfortable, organized chaos. If there is an inch of unused space, I will find a way of stuffing something into itbut I can live with myself because I always have something in there to transform simple ingredients into something a little more special.
I am the kind of cook who relies on ingredients from the pantry to help give a simple dish a little extra flavor. Whether that comes from a single spice or spice mix, a flavored oil, preserve or unique ingredient, I find great comfort in knowing that I can always combine fresh produce with a little something from the pantry to make a simple meal a little more interesting.