This book is dedicated to our fabulous sisters: Pam, Barb, Marie, and Kay. You have allowed us to amuse you with our lifestyle. You have encouraged us with kind words. And most of all, you have shared your laughter, friendship, and love with us through all the times, good and bad. We cherish you all very much.
First published in 2009 by MBI Publishing Company and Voyageur Press, an imprint of MBI Publishing Company, 400 First Avenue North, Suite 300, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA
Copyright 2009 by Paul M. Franklin and Nancy Mikula
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Digital edition: 978-1-61673-205-9
Softcover edition: 978-0-7603-3226-9
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Franklin, Paul M.
Backroads of Florida : your guide to great day trips & weekend getaways / by Paul Franklin and Nancy Mikula.
p. cm.
ISBN 978-0-7603-3226-9 (softbound : alk. paper)
1. Florida--Tours. Scenic byways--Florida--Guidebooks. Automobile travel--Florida--Guidebooks. I. Mikula, Nancy, 1947- II. Title.
F309.3.F73 2009
917.590464--dc22
2008032758
Editor: Leah Noel
Designer: Greg Nettles, Squarecrow Creative
Jacket Designer: Brian Donahue
Printed in Singapore
F RONTISPIECE : Winter is orange harvesting time throughout central Florida, where Valencia oranges are prized for their sweet juice.
T ITLE P AGE M AIN: A fisherman returns from checking his crab traps as dawn breaks over the calm waters of St. George Sound near Carrabelle, Florida.
T ITLE P AGE I NSET: A great egret stands at the edge of a tidal marsh, just a few feet from the walkway of Anhinga Overlook, one of the best bird-watching areas in Everglades National Park.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Over the months that we researched and traveled the backroads of Florida, we were constantly amazed at how much help we received, often from people we barely knew. There is no way we can thank them all in this small space, but we will try to name a few. Thanks to Andy Newman and the effervescent Carolina Bustamante of Stuart Newman Associates for fabulous assistance in the Florida Keys. And likewise to Jay Humphries for his excellent assistance in St. Augustine. To all those who opened the doors to their interesting worlds, especially Robert of Robert Is Here exotic fruit stand, Howard Solomon and family at the unique Solomons Castle, and Jack Rudloe at the Gulf Specimen Marine Laboratory in Panacea, a big thanks. Our gratitude also goes out to all the national and state park personnel who helped us learn more about Floridas incredible parks.
And finally, to all those who labor long and hard, and often with too little recognition, to preserve and protect Floridas historic and wild places for future generations, you have our deepest appreciation and our prayers.
Robert Moehling has been selling fruit on the same corner in Florida City for almost fifty years. His popular exotic fruits include guava, mangoes, papayas, carambola, and atamoya.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
Finding Floridas Backroad Gems
Early morning light filters through the branches of an ancient oak on the grounds of Eden Gardens State Park in Floridas Panhandle.
When we started researching and writing this book, there was one question we were asked most: Does Florida even have backroads? Its an understandable query, as many who visit the Sunshine State experience it by rocketing along interstates to Orlando or the latest beach resort.
However, for those who know and love Floridas tens of thousands of miles of two-lane blacktops, posing such a question is like asking if the Rockies have mountains.
In fact, the minute you get off the interstate and head into the lesser-known regions of the state, youll find wonderful places filled with stunning natural beauty, incredible history, and true once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Want to snorkel with a manatee or get up close and personal with a sixteen-foot alligator? Want to hunt for sunken treasure or watch a rocket blast off for the stars? This is the place to do it. Beyond the famous Florida of sand and sun, youll discover the states rich seafaring history and awe-inspiring wilderness, places where cowboy legends and tropical mysteries abound. The backroad roamers know the secret: For whichever flavor of Florida you seek, there is a scenic byway or a two-lane road to take you there.
But where exactly do Floridas backroads and byways lead? Of course, into the heart of the wet, wild, all-natural Florida Everglades, where tranquil estuaries, horizonless marshes, and darkly inviting swamps are home to alligators gliding silently through mirror-black waters. The roughly 1.5 million acres here are adventure central, where you can hike hidden trails through ancient forests of pine and moss-draped oaks; paddle your kayak through tidal wetlands teeming with herons, egrets, and roseate spoonbills; or drift along black-water rivers where mighty cypress trees festooned with delicate orchids reach from the dark waters to the sky.
The spicy fragrance of citrus blooms, the state flower, often fills the air along Floridas backroads and byways in the early springtime.
Floridas backroads also lead into the heartland, a little-explored world of rolling green hills, lush citrus orchards, and sparkling lakes, where quarter horses run in white-fenced meadows and parklike cattle ranches line miles of shady byways. They pass through charming small towns, such as Mount Dora, Madison, and Lake Wales, that offer timeless storefront main streets lined with craft and antique shops, galleries, and ice cream parlors.