Paul M. Franklin - Backroads of Florida - Second Edition: Along the Byways to Breathtaking Landscapes and Quirky Small Towns

2ND EDITION

ALONG THE BYWAYS TO BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES AND QUIRKY SMALL TOWNS

PAUL M. FRANKLIN & NANCY MIKULA

OVER THE MONTHS that we researched and traveled the backroads of Florida, we were constantly amazed at how much help we received, often from people we barely knew. There is no way we can thank them all in this small space, but we will try to name a few. Thanks to the wonderful folks at Stuart Newman Associates for fabulous assistance in the Florida Keys. And likewise to the excellent team at Floridas Historic Coast for their excellent assistance in St. Augustine. To all those who opened the doors to their interesting worlds, especially Robert of Robert Is Here exotic fruit stand, Howard Solomon and family at the unique Solomons Castle, Jack Rudloe at the Gulf Specimen Marine Laboratory in Panacea, and Chris Pendleton and Lisa Wilson at Edison Ford Winter Estates, a big thanks. Our gratitude also goes out to all the national and state park personnel who helped us learn more about Floridas incredible parks. And finally, to all those who labor long and hard, and often with too little recognition, to preserve and protect Floridas historic and wild places for future generations, you have our deepest appreciation and our prayers.

1. PART I
   SOUTHERN FLORIDA
   1. 1. MANGOES, MYSTERIES, and the RIVER of GRASS
      BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK TO EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK
   2. 2. SAND and SEASHELLS
      FORT MYERS BEACH TO CAPTIVA ISLAND
   3. 3. The PIRATE COAST
      SPANISH POINT TO BOCA GRANDE
   4. 4. PINE ISLAND SOJOURN
      CAPE CORAL TO ST. JAMES CITY
   5. 5. A RAMBLE THROUGH OLD MIAMI
      SOUTH BEACH TO COCONUT GROVE
   6. 6. The TAMIAMI TRAIL
      MIAMI TO CHOKOLOSKEE
   7. 7. The FLORIDA KEYS
      MIAMI TO KEY WEST
   8. 8. The WILD CALOOSAHATCHEE RIVER
      FORT MYERS TO LABELLE
   9. 9. JUPITER ISLAND JAUNT
      JUPITER INLET LIGHTHOUSE TO STUART
2. PART II
   CENTRAL FLORIDA
   1. 10. SALT SPRINGS and STEAM TRAINS
      MOUNT DORA TO WELAKA
   2. 11. MANATEES and MERMAIDS
      CRYSTAL RIVER ARCHAEOLOGICAL STATE PARK TO PINE ISLAND
   3. 12. PSYCHICS, SALT MARSHES, and FLORIDAS UNKNOWN HIGHWAY
      CASSADAGA TO YANKEETOWN
   4. 13. The WILD CANAVERAL COAST
      KENNEDY SPACE CENTER VISITOR COMPLEX TO CANAVERAL NATIONAL SEASHORE
   5. 14. The TREASURE COAST
      MELBOURNE BEACH TO JENSEN BEACH CAUSEWAY
   6. 15. CRACKERS and CASTLES
      MYAKKA RIVER STATE PARK TO ZOLFO SPRINGS
   7. 16. The ROLLING CITRUS HILLS
      AVON PARK TO DUNDEE
3. PART III
   NORTHEAST FLORIDA
   1. 17. AMELIA ISLAND AMBLE
      JACKSONVILLE TO FERNANDINDA BEACH
   2. 18. ST. AUGUSTINE and the NORTH COAST
      JACKSONVILLE BEACH TO ST. AUGUSTINE
   3. 19. The PALM COAST
      ST. AUGUSTINE TO ORMAND BEACH
   4. 20. The MIGHTY ST. JOHNS RIVER
      FROM JACKSONVILLE TO PALATKA
4. PART IV
   NORTH CENTRAL FLORIDA
   1. 21. The RIVER ROAD to CEDAR KEY
      GAINESVILLE TO CEDAR KEY
   2. 22. The ROAD to CROSS CREEK
      OCALA TO EVINSTON
   3. 23. SUWANNEE RIVER RAMBLE
      WHITE SPRINGS LOOP
5. PART V
   THE PANHANDLE
   1. 24. ALONG the EMERALD COAST
      PENSACOLA TO ROSEMARY BEACH
   2. 25. ROLLING FARMLANDS and MOSSY OAKS
      EDEN GARDENS STATE PARK TO FLORALA, ALABAMA
   3. 26. HONEY, SAND, and SCALLOPS
      PANAMA CITY TO ST. JOSEPH PENINSULA STATE PARK
   4. 27. The FORGOTTEN COAST
      APALACHICOLA TO CARRABELLE
   5. 28. ANCIENT FORTS and SEA CREATURES
      TALLAHASSEE TO PANACEA
   6. 29. A WANDER THROUGH YESTERYEAR
      TALLAHASSEES CANOPY ROADS
   7. 30. GARDENS, BIRDS, and ANTIQUES
      TALLAHASSEE TO HAVANA
   8. 31. SINKHOLES and BLUE SPRINGS
      TALLAHASSEE TO THE WAKULLA RIVER

W HEN WE STARTED researching and writing this book, there was one question we were asked most: does Florida even have backroads? Its an understandable query, as many who visit the Sunshine State experience it by rocketing along interstates to Orlando or the latest beach resort. However, for those who know and love Floridas tens of thousands of miles of two-lane blacktops, posing such a question is like asking if the Rockies have mountains.

In fact, the minute you get off the interstate and head into the lesser-known regions of the state, youll find wonderful places filled with stunning natural beauty, incredible history, and true once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Want to snorkel with a manatee or get up close and personal with a sixteen-foot alligator? Want to hunt for sunken treasure or watch a rocket blast off for the stars? This is the place to do it. Beyond the famous Florida of sand and sun, youll discover the states rich seafaring history and awe-inspiring wilderness, places where cowboy legends and tropical mysteries abound. The backroad roamers know the secret: whichever flavor of Florida you seek, there is a scenic byway or a two-lane road to take you there. But where exactly do Floridas backroads and byways lead? Of course, into the heart of the wet, wild, all-natural Florida Everglades, where tranquil estuaries, horizonless marshes, and darkly inviting swamps are home to alligators gliding silently through mirror-black waters. The roughly 1.5 million acres here are adventure central, where you can hike hidden trails through ancient forests of pine and moss-draped oaks; paddle your kayak through tidal wetlands teeming with herons, egrets, and roseate spoonbills; or drift along black-water rivers where mighty cypress trees festooned with delicate orchids reach from the dark waters to the sky.

Floridas backroads also lead into the heartland, a little-explored world of rolling green hills, lush citrus orchards, and sparkling lakes, where quarter horses run in white-fenced meadows and park-like cattle ranches line miles of shady byways. They pass through charming small towns, such as Mount Dora, Madison, and Lake Wales, which offer timeless storefront main streets lined with craft and antique shops, galleries, and ice cream parlors. And no doubt about it, Floridas backroads eventually lead one and all to the magnificent kingdom of kitsch. No place can equal the Sunshine State in serving up heaping helpings of roadside silliness and eccentricity. Whether its the monumental sculpture-filled whimsy of aluminum-plated Solomons Castle in central Florida or the quirky humor (not to mention juice-dripping-down-your-chin deliciousness) youll find at the Robert Is Here exotic fruit stand, Florida is full of the weird and wonderful. In spite of a pervasive belief that every inch of Floridas coast has been developed, Floridas backroads do lead to untamed stretches of sand and sea, where you can drive for miles enjoying views of turquoise surf, wind-tossed shoreline palms, or quiet estuaries alive with birds and wildlife. At places such as Canaveral National Seashore, Big Talbot Island, or Lovers Key, you can stroll barefoot along seemingly endless stretches of sun-warmed sandy surf line, where gulls float effortlessly through the air and the sea oats sway gently along vast stretches of empty dunes. Head out on Floridas backroads and youll discover a world of history and legends, of heroes and villainsfrom pirates and adventurers to fierce native warriors. Youll explore St. Augustine, where an ancient stone fortress defends the oldest town in America and ships still set their course on stormy nights by a haunted lighthouse, and Orchid Island, where pieces of eight still wash ashore from a treasure fleet that sank three centuries ago. Ultimately, youll find the near-mythical realm of Old Floridathat place of unique and astonishing nature, Southern charm and grace, roadside weirdness and quirky intrigueis alive and well.