Annie Stoltie - Explorers Guide to the Adirondacks

Copyright 2018, 2003, 2000, 1996, and 1992 by by The Countryman Press
Copyright 2008 by Annie Stoltie and Elizabeth Folwell
Copyright 2012 by Annie Stoltie

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978-1-68268-108-4 (pbk.)

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I ts because of Elizabeth Betsy Folwell that this guidebook exists. In 1992, Betsy wrote the first edition of what was called The Adirondack Book , a clearinghouse for all things Adirondack, in meticulous, exhaustive detail, with the usual dining and lodging material but also folksy stuff, like firehouse suppers and where to score Stoddard stereoviews. Although weve updated and added and changed and reorganized, this books foundation is all Betsyweve even double-checked much of what youll read in these chapters with her, our Adirondack guru.

Were also thankful for help from other Adirondack friends, all intrepid reporters who shared their thoughts and meals and experiences as we compiled this book. They include Galen Crane, of Lake Placid; Tom Henry, of Charlotte, Vermont; and Mary Thill, of Saranac Lake. A special thank you goes to Saratogian Amy Godine, too, whose knowledge of Adirondack history and Spa City happeningstossed with super, snappy writingmake the Adirondack history section and the Gateway Cities chapter so much fun.

Ted Comstock, of Saranac Lake, deserves thanks: he was kind enough to sort through his extensive collection of Adirondackana to find just the right historical postcards for this book.

This book shares the best of the Adirondacks through the talents of some of the finest photographers in the Northeast. We are indebted to Adirondack photographers Nancie Battaglia, Mark Bowie, John DiGiacomo, Eric Dresser, Johnathan Esper, Drew Haas, Carl Heilman II, Mark Kurtz, Kevin MacKenzie, Jeff Nadler, Shaun Ondak, Ben Stechschulte, and Melody Thomas. If you like what you see in these pages, check out these photographers websites.

CONTENTS

MAPS

N ew Yorks Adirondack Park is a big parkbigger than Yellowstone and Yosemite put together and larger than any of the national parks in the lower 48 states. This park is better than national parks in many ways, too. You dont pay an entry fee when you cross the so-called Blue Line, the parks boundary; you dont need a permit to hike, climb a mountain, canoe, or explore the backcountry. People make this park their home and have lived here for many generations, giving this region a distinctive culture and offering an array of services to visitors.

The park has a year-round population of about 130,000 residents and covers 6 million acres, about the size of the state of Vermont. Land owned by New York Statethe Adirondack Forest Preserveis about 2.5 million acres, and large landowners own another million acres and contribute significantly to the forested landscape and the local economy.

Through the years weve enjoyed visiting many different communities, exploring wild places, and learning about the region. Although the territory appears timeless, human endeavors change frequently. Thats the impetus behind the eighth edition of this bookto supply information about new places and updates on classic spots.

We hope that these pages encourage you to explore this great place.

COURTESY OF ORDA/DAVE SCHMIDT

T o cover the Adirondack region, each geographic section of the parkand the towns, listed alphabetically within those sectionshas been broken down to better serve those who are planning a trip to, say, Old Forge. However, in the Adirondack Park, its not unusual to spend a day in multiple regions: perhaps youll pass a morning at the Wild Center in Tupper Lake, grab lunch in Lake Placid, spend the evening at the theater in Westport, then stay the night in Keene Valley.

Although the first chapter, Gateway Cities, includes travel information on two places that are outside the Blue Line, Saratoga Springs and Glens Falls are fascinating destinations in themselves. Because these cities have long been gateways to the great woods to the north, they deserve a place in this book. In this chapter youll find descriptions of lodgings, restaurants, museums, and recreational opportunities available in both towns.

CASCADE FALLS, IN THE PIGEON LAKE WILDERNESS AREA COURTESY OF SHAUN ONDAK, WWW.SHAUNONDAK.COM

Throughout the book, many of the entries have phone numbers, websites, addresses (although many Adirondack hamlets are so rural, all thats available is the name of a street or route), and so forth. These facts have been checked as close to the books publication date as possible, but businesses do change hands and change policies. Its always a good idea to call ahead.

For the same reason, you wont find specific prices listed for, say, restaurants or greens fees; descriptions for these should explain whether theyre high-end or middle-of-the-road. A general price range is given for lodgingbut keep in mind, prices often fluctuate according to season or other variables. And some rates include meals, which will be noted in the description.

A whirlwind tour to see the Adirondacks can mean an awful lot of time spent in the car rather than getting to know a few nice places. So it may be best to carefully consider your tastes and concentrate your energy within a 40-mile area.

If youre a history buff and want to stroll through attractive, well-preserved towns and old forts, then head for the Champlain Valley, especially Ticonderoga, Crown Point, Westport, and Essex. Great restaurants and lovely bed & breakfast accommodations in Essex and Westport offer an excellent counterpoint to more rustic experiences. If you crave sweeping mountain vistas, aim your sights at the High Peaks, highlighting Keene Valley, Keene, and Lake Placid. The view from downtown Lake Placid, with chains of craggy peaks marching around the village, is unlike any other town in the park. If you like clean, island-dotted lakes, use Upper Saranac, Cranberry, Long, Blue Mountain, Indian, Raquette, Piseco, or Lake Pleasant as a base. For a terrific overviewliterallycharter a floatplane from Long Lake or Inlet or take flight above the High Peaks from Lake Placid.