Contents
Copyright 2019 by Joanne Chang
Photography copyright 2019 by Kristin Teig
All rights reserved.
For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to or to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 3 Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, New York 10016.
hmhbooks.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Chang, Joanne, author. | Teig, Kristin, photographer.
Title: Pastry love : a bakers journal of favorite recipes / Joanne Chang ; photography by Kristin Teig.
Description: Boston : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, [2019] | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2019004919 (print) | LCCN 2019010420 (ebook) | ISBN 9780544836747 (ebook) | ISBN 9780544836488 (paper over board)
Subjects: LCSH: Baking. | Pastry. | Cookbooks. lcgft
Classification: LCC TX763 (ebook) | LCC TX763 .C4344 2019 (print) | DDC641.86/5dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019004919
Book design by Gary Tooth/Empire Design Studio
v2.1019
Contents
Acknowledgments
With every cookbook I write, Christopher asks me, Arent you worried about giving away all of your secrets? I see his pointwe have a collection of bakeries and a restaurant, all of which base their menus on the recipes in my books. From my point of view, however, I write books for the exact same reason I run Flour and Myers+Chang: I love to share the joy that amazing food brings to us all. (Plus, if youve visited any of our places, you know that its the genuinely warm spirit of the teams, along with the overflowing bounty of sticky buns, dumplings, and egg sandwiches, that makes visiting Flour and Myers+Chang irreplaceable by a cookbook. Come visit us!)
Writing a cookbook, like operating a bakery or restaurant, is truly a team effort. If Pastry Love brings you pleasure and sticky fingers and a full tummy, it is in large part because of a huge support network of bakers, friends, family, and cookbook devotees that helped me.
Thank you to the devoted and grand army of Flour pastry chefs and pastry cooks who tested, tasted, prepped, and cheered me on throughout the writing of Pastry Love . Im grateful to be surrounded by such a passionate and generous cadre of pastry stars. Special shout-outs to Sarah P., Sarah M., Allyson, Rachael, Heather, Joe, Jes, Jonathan, Jessi, Miguel, and Keith, who enthusiastically helped with their time and talents. Im so grateful for you all.
To Mike, Frank, and Nicole, you all get a Moment of Excellence ;) for keeping the bakeries running smoothly while I diverted attention to the writing of this book. Thank you so much.
I had an incredible testing team! Thank you Anne, Andrea, Katie, Falcon, Mike B., Dawn, Jessie, Mary, Kaia, Kiran, Mardi, Jane, Tracie, and Val, who baked their way through all 150 recipes to make sure they were ready to share. Each recipe was triply tested to make sure they were all perfect. Special thanks to Michael and Sandy who, between them, tested each and every recipe again. That was a ton of testing!
Im grateful to work in an industry that supports and shares with and roots for each other. Thank you to the pastry chefs and chefs who have always said yes to any request for advice, recipes, or opinions when Ive asked: Rick Katz, Franois Payard, Jody Adams, Lydia Shire, Jamie Mammano, Amy Scherber, Christina Tosi, Yotam Ottolenghi, David Lebovitz, Andrew Zimmern, Dominique Ansel, Dorie Greenspan, Rose Levy Beranbaum, and countless others.
A great book agent makes you believe you can do anything. Im so lucky to have Stacey Glick in my corner, and without her, I know this book would not have come to life. Her unabashed zeal for everything I do is like having a second momthanks, Book Mom!
Writing a cookbook is hard work! Justin, my editor, is the person you want helping you every step of the way. I cant thank him enough for his guidance, support, and encouragement, which fueled me forward on many a long night of editing and writing and even more editing. Hes editing this acknowledgment in his head as I write, and I know hell make it so much better!
I couldnt wait to take the photos for Pastry Love , not only because I was super excited to see these pastries again in their final form, but also because I knew shooting with Kristin Teig would be a blast. If youd watched us at work, with all the different angles and splits she would contort her body into to get the perfect shot, you wouldve thought we were in an advanced yoga class. Rick Holbrook, our food stylist and part-time hand model, made the pastries shine. And when I threw out the insane idea of taking pictures of every single dessert, both immediately agreed. I couldnt have asked for a better team.
To the whole Myers+Chang and Flour family, thank you for making me proud every single day with your grace, determination, and dedication to excellence, and for allowing me to step away from work to focus on writing Pastry Love . Im grateful to all of the teams, and I love you very much.
My mom and dad are the reason I am who I am today, doing what I do. Just do your best has been their lifelong lesson to me, and everything I do is to make them proud. I love you.
And of course, Christophermy best friend, my sounding board, my favorite tester, my inspiration. You are the reason for everything. Thank you for believing in me, and for believing that I can do anythingbecause of you, I can. Not only could I not have written this book without you, I would not have wanted to. This book, and everything I do, is for you.
Introduction
I coined the term pastry love after opening the second Boston location of my bakery, Flour. When we were only one bakery, I was on-site every day, ready to fluff up the pastry counter pretty much every hour we were open. It was one of the best parts of my day: going up front and rearranging all of the pastries so they looked beautiful and loved. I imagined a harried guest stopping in to grab a quick coffee, and I wanted our display to stop her in her tracks and bring delight to her afternoon. I hoped she would slow down and indulge in an almond croissant and take a moment for herself. Once we had two locations, I quickly realized I couldnt be in two places at once to pretty up the counter (although I sure did try, zipping back and forth on my bike between both bakeries every few hours). I started teaching all of the staff and managers how to give the pastry counter some love. Several times a day I would call over to whichever bakery I was not at and ask, Have you done pastry love recently? Does every pastry look gorgeous and spectacular? Its now a full-page lesson in our training manual, and it remains one of my favorite things to do when I visit one of our now eight Flour bakeries.