Connolly - The A-Z of Eating Out
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- Book:The A-Z of Eating Out
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ALSO BY JOSEPH CONNOLLY
Fiction
Poor Souls
This Is It
Stuff
Summer Things
Winter Breaks
It Cant Go On
S.O.S.
The Works
Love Is Strange
Jack the Lad and Bloody Mary
Englands Lane
Boys and Girls
Non-fiction
Collecting Modern First Editions
P. G. Wodehouse: An Illustrated Biography
Jerome K. Jerome: A Critical Biography
Modern First Editions: Their Value to Collectors
The Penguin Book Quiz Book
Childrens Modern First Editions: Their Value to Collectors
Beside the Seaside
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Wodehouse
Faber and Faber: Eighty Years of Book Cover Design
Originally published in the United Kingdom in 2014 as
The A-Z of Eating Out
ISBN 978-0-500-51736-9
by Thames & Hudson Ltd, 181a High Holborn, London WC1V 7QX
The A-Z of Eating Out 2014 Joseph Connolly
This electronic version first published in 2013 by
Thames & Hudson Ltd, 181a High Holborn, London WC1V 7QX
To find out about all our publications, please visit
www.thamesandhudson.com
All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
ISBN 978-0-500-77191-4
ISBN 978-0-500-77212-6 (e-book)
Other titles of interest published by
Thames & Hudson include:
Food: The History of Taste
The New Ptissiers
Pasta by Design
The True History of Chocolate
Hip Hotels: Atlas
Creative Living: London
See our websites
www.thamesandhudson.com
www.thamesandhudsonusa.com
TO TERENCE CONRAN
THE FOUNDER OF THE MODERN FEAST
MENU
Here is the book for everybody who eats out and that means you. Because we all of us do it now, whether far too rarely, pretty regularly all things considered, or else so very damned often that sometimes we wonder how ever we manage to get anything done. Oh yes, eating out: its what each and every one of us is busy getting up to, these days. Speaking for myself, well lunch and dinner in restaurants are the nearest I ever get to practising any kind of formal religion, and assuredly I am a most devout observer. And not by any means simply because I write a weekly restaurant review: Lord, no Ive always been like that. But this book is not only for experienced old hands who just love to eat out; it is also for those more occasional diners who feel they might like to know a little bit more about it all, to explore its unwritten subtleties, mysteries, contradictions and often perfectly laughable pretensions. You by no means have to be an epicure (in fact, on the whole, its probably better if you arent); you dont even have to be that much of a foodie, and certainly not a wine connoisseur though it surely wont hurt, should you happen to be either thing.
This book is not actually primarily concerned with food and cooking (while both, clearly, are utterly central to the entire gorgeous exercise), and nor is it just another guide to restaurants (although these are constantly alluded to). Simply, we have here a distillation of all you have ever experienced, for good and ill, at the hands of a restaurateur, as well as everything else you really do need to know every joyous (or otherwise) aspect of the actually rather lovely business of eating out, in a simple AZ format. It is perfectly possible to read the whole thing alphabetically from start to finish (and, I hope, with pleasure and amusement), or else do feel quite free to let rip and indulge in the very raison dtre of an AZ, by dipping in at will. You will find here all that you hope for and expect, together with a very great deal more besides each entry treated with affection and humour, although always entirely realistically, and set within a bedrock of fact.
This, then, is the book for people who absolutely understand that the entire experience of eating out the way, after all, you have chosen to spend your increasingly valuable leisure time and leisure money is supposed to be about simple enjoyment, friendship and personal indulgence. There are neither rules nor instructions here, but rather plenty of guidelines, suggestions, cautions, advice, trade secrets and the accumulation of maybe rather too much personal experience. A smorgasbord, some might say a temptingly presented and lavish buffet, crammed with all that ever you could require! Well yes some might indeed be moved to say that, I suppose, but its a little rich for my taste. And if you imagine for a single moment that now I am about to sign off this little intro with a cheery Bon apptit!, then Im afraid I have to tell you that you are very woefully mistaken. Do dig in, though
These tend to be oriental. One wouldnt really care to be more specific than that: let us, shall we, call the food generic although such buffets did originally spring up in Chinatown, and rather took off from there. Some exist now that offer all sorts of cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Indian, Thai, Italian which is awfully handy for the more undiscerning yet curious among us who finally can discover what a spag bol might taste like with the judicious addition of some sushi, tacos, chow mein and maybe just a ladleful of vindaloo. All such places are very popular in university towns, fairly naturally, as the student is a questing creature who is constantly seeking to satisfy his appetite with just about anything really, in return for as little money as possible (the overwhelming bulk of his loan, rather obviously, being earmarked for the pub). These places are more than generous with the rice and noodles, as rice and noodles are cheap, and fill you up fast. They do make money, though despite the seeming impossibility of the bargain on offer because for every gourmandizing semi-professional who daily attempts with reasonable success to consume at least his own bodyweight, a dozen more people will be quite contented with a merely rational portion. These are called women.
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The amuse-bouche is on the march. It used to be so very rarefied a thing, rather seldom seen, but these days it can attack you from all quarters, and often when you are least expecting such an encounter. It will manifest itself either as a mark of pretension on the part of a so-so restaurant rather rashly attempting and failing to quite make the leap on to the tailboard of a fast-moving bandwagon (and in such an establishment, you will not wish to eat whatever it is they have chosen to present), or, more probably, as a splendid opportunity for a first-class restaurant to do a little bit of flaunting, which is, after all, one of the perks of the job. The amuse-bouche (amuse-gueule, the other French term denoting an appetizing little nibble, seems rather to have fallen into desuetude) translates as something to tickle the ravenous palate a cheeky and throwaway little jeu desprit. Restaurants boasting two and three Michelin stars, or those that earnestly aspire to so dizzying a status, now seem to think that a couple of these to kick off with, and at least a couple more further down the line, will just about do the trick. Such largesse can easily be overdone, sometimes to the point where one has to ask oneself exactly how much raw amusement just the one mouth may decently be expected to bear.
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