For Alan, for smiling hungrily when he sees me get the cheese and bread ready; to Leah and Jon, for all the cheese cookin in their NYC digs; to Gretchen, for grilled cheese in San Francisco; to Nancy Fletcher of the California Milk Advisory Board; to Patricia Schneider and Lynn Devereaux, who shared good cheese and good times in California (it was Patricias idea for this book!). To Clark Wolf, for cheese thoughts and inspirations, as well as those NYC margaritas. To Kathleen Iudice and Sue Tonkin, for Paris panini, and to Berkeleys Cheeseboardno mention of the cheese in my life is complete without them. To Randall Hodgson, of Londons Neals Yard Dairy, and a British cheese pioneer. To Auntie Stellie, for those grilled Cheddar and dill pickle sandwiches; and to my mother, for the grilled cheese and tomato soup lunches of childhood. To Juliet H.s love child, Angus.
Heres to cheesemakings national treasure, Sonomas Ig Vella; and to Andante, Bellwether, Point Reyes Blue, Laura Chenel, Cowgirl Creamery, Humboldt Fog, and all of the inspiring new waves of cheesemakers. To Jenni Muir, for commissioning an Italian cheese article, to Anne Dettmer for her Swiss cheese extravaganzas, and to Kim Severson for the cheese and bread slumber party. To Ally Waks, Sandy Waks, Kamala Friedman, Esther and John, Paula Aspin and her Chris, Sheona and Tony Vianello, Portia Smith, Antonietta Kelly, and Emi Kazuko and the Sams Deli gang: Etty, Bruce, and Natalie Blackman, famous for their grilled cheese. To Amy Treadwell and Holly Burrows and the publishing crew at Chronicle Books for all the hard work. Most specially, heres to Michael Bauer, Miriam Morgan, and the rest of the San Francisco Chronicle food department the most wonderful colleagues anyone could hope for.
And a huge melted cheesesmeared thanks to Bill LeBlond, who thought that this lighthearted, cheese-filled book just might be a lot of fun to publish, and even more fun to eat through.
Crisply toasted in the pan or broiled open-face to a melty sizzle, there are few things more enticing than a grilled cheese sandwich.
The golden brown toast crunches on the outside as you bite into it, yielding its soft, hot, oozing cheese. You get a rush of pleasure and a shiver of both the forbidden and the familiar: that buttery crispness of earthy bread with its layer of melting warm cheese. Cheese and buttered toast may well be a dietary luxury these days, perhaps even taboo for some; yet grilled cheese sandwiches are the culinary equivalent of a comfort blanket. A grilled cheese sandwich is probably what your mother fed you, your school fed you, and your childhood fed you. And it just might be what you feed yourself and close friends and family, at least occasionally.
Grilled cheese sandwiches can be one of the simplest things to make, something you can make at almost any hour with ingredients right there in your kitchen already, in less than a few minutes. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, after school, or midnight snack all are the perfect time for a grilled cheese sandwich.
The whole world at least wherever they have both bread and cheese loves a grilled cheese sandwich.
In France, grilled cheese may be the rustic casse crotes (midmorning snacks) eaten outdoors by workers in the field, or the chic little grilled truffle and fromage that toute Paris has been nibbling recently. Too, grilled cheese sandwiches are one of Frances national caf treats: croque monsieur. Ranging from simple ham-filled thin white bread topped with cheese and melted, to an extravaganza of excellent cheese, perhaps moistened with a bit of cream, a smudge of bechamel sauce, all melted atop pain aulevain (such as the superb sourdough loaf of Pilane). Croque monsieur is an entire family of grilled cheese sandwich possibilities. Additions such as country ham (croque compagnard), ratatouille or a slice of tomato (croque Provenal), Spanish chorizo (croque seor), or Cantal cheese and country ham (croque Auvergnate) all transform this simple sandwich, as does the classic croque madame, in which the sandwich is topped with a fried egg.
Then there are Italian panini taking the world by storm. A soft roll filled with cheese and a wide variety of meats, spreads, and condiments, pressed between the heavy hot metal plates of the panini press, yields crisp golden bread, filled with gloriously melted cheese.
Across the sea to Florida, Cuban sandwiches are all the rage: hot, flat, oozing cheese, full of cured meats, pickles, and tons of flavorclearly a cousin to the bocadillo I ate in a caf in Ibiza, Spain.
Welsh Rarebit is Englands classic grilled cheese offering: melting, spiced Cheddar on toast. In Umbria melted fontina is cossetted with cream and truffles, and then spooned over bruschettadivine (especially with artichokes). And in a northern Italian vineyard, I joined grape pickers making a late-morning snack of shredded fontina, fresh rosemary, and diced pancetta, smeared atop a doughy flatbread and toasted over an open fire.
And if you happen to come upon a casse crote of Roquefort in Frances southwest, dont miss the chance: Roquefort, Gruyre, and a splash of wine melted onto a toasty baguetteor simply open these pages and make one yourself.
Mexico and Southwest Americas quesadilla, the Indians love affair with pizza (tandoori pizza!), the labna-filled mannakish of Lebanon, and Turkeys cheese-stuffed flatbreads are all versions of the grilled cheese sandwich. Sometimes I think the whole world of bread and cheese needs only to be paired up and melted for another wonderful foray into grilled cheese bliss. The application of heatand sometimes, a brainstorm of creativitytransforms the two most basic foodstuffs, bread and cheese, into a toasty, gooey, and crisp culinary experience.
American Grilled Cheese Childhood and Rediscovery
As hip and varied as grilled cheese sandwiches may be today, when we were growing up, a grilled cheese sandwich was what you had as a rainy-day lunch with tomato soup (unless you were very lucky and your mother decided to make soup and sandwich for supper instead of the usual meat and potatoes). I remember tuna melt with a feeling akin to jubilationmelted cheese with soft creamy tuna salad, snuggled into crisp buttered toasted bread, felt like a celebration instead of a meal.
I know Im not alone in this. For, after eating our way through the worlds street food and ethnic specialties, from sushi and dim sum to tacos and burritos, doro wat, momos, pho, stir-fried tofu, falafel, and pasta fagioli, sitting down to a good ol grilled cheese sandwich is like coming home. Just the thought of it makes me want to run into the kitchen right now, and grill up a taste of familiaritywith a big dose of modern flavors and attitude.
The traditional format of bread + cheese + a hot pan (or hot broiler), with our contemporary variety of cheeses and breads, and savory additions creates dazzling grilled cheese sandwiches.
Where to Find Them
Coast to coast, the coolest American cafs and bistros present grilled cheese sandwiches, not just as an afterthought, but also as signature dishes.
New Yorks Craftbar serves a wild mushroom, duck prosciutto, and melted Taleggio cheese; in New York, too, Tablas Bread Bar serves grilled tandoori Cheddar; Campanile in L.A. has grilled cheese night and Michael Mina offers lobster grilled cheese at his restaurant Arcadia, in San Jose; in Sonoma, California, The Girl and the Fig offers a grilled cheese sandwich on their lunch menu of the day, and San Franciscos Tartine serves a croque monsieur with bchamel as you seldom find it in Paris these days. But no restaurant matches the devotion to this homey little dish better than Grilled Cheese NYC (Ludlow, near Houston Street), a lunch caf devoted almost entirely to the grilled cheese sandwich. At lunchtime the little room is filled with the happy buzz of grilled cheese sandwich munching.
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