Werlin Laura - Great grilled cheese: 50 innovative recipes for stovetop, grill, and sandwich maker

TO MY SISTER ANDI

Published in 2004 by
Stewart, Tabori & Chang
An imprint of ABRAMS

Text copyright 2004 Laura Werlin

Photographs copyright 2004 Maren Caruso

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Werlin, Laura.
Great grilled cheese : 50 innovative recipes for stovetop, grill, and sandwich maker / Laura Werlin ; photographs by Maren Caruso.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-58479-338-0
Cookery (Cheese) 2. Sandwiches I. Title

TXT759.5.C48W47 2004
641.8&4dc22 2004048108

Editor: Julie Stillman

Designer: Laura Lindgren

115 West 18th Street
New York, NY 10011
www.abramsbooks.com

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Oh, the joys of writing a cookbook, especially one as fun and as comforting as this one. I have many people to thank for helping bring this project to fruition. Thanks to: Carole Bidnick for being my trusted agent and amazing friend; my editor, Julie Stillman, who has edited all three of my books, thereby deserving a medal; the people at Stewart, Tabori & Chang, especially president and publisher Leslie Stoker, who is equal parts publisher and friend.

To my recipe tester, Annette Flores, whose palate, organizational skills, and work ethic brought good grilled cheese to great. To my friends and family who lent their recipe-testing skills: Cheryl Gould, Suzy Sharp, Richard Stern, and Mom, Dad, and my sister, Andi, who are as loyal as the day is long, and more loving than any people I know.

The creative folks behind this project deserve up-front recognition. Photographer Maren Caruso and the food styling team, Erin Quon and Kim Konecny of EK Foods, embraced the subject of grilled cheese and brought it to life through beautiful pictures; and Laura Lindgren captured the fun and whimsy of grilled cheese in her creative design.

To the many others who have helped along the way: Barbara Cush-man who always stands by at the cheese counter at The Pasta Shop in Oakland waiting to hand me a sample of the latest and greatest cheese; Lori Lyn Narlock, a great friend and consistent booster in every way; Lisa Ekus, Dana Whitaker, Diane Tegmeyer, and my foodwriting group, John Birdsall, Linda Carucci, Randy Milden, Jennie Schacht, Elizabeth Thomas, and Thy Tran, who slogged through the first version of the introduction and helped whip itand meinto shape. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.

INTRODUCTION

I cant remember a time when I didnt love grilled cheese. As a child, I instinctively appreciated any justification for slathering butter on two slices of sandwich bread, uniting them with gobs of cheese, and then frying the whole thing to a delicate crunch. Sometimes, cheese would escape the clutches of the bread and transform into golden toasty bits in the hot pan. I would immediately scrape them up and pop them in my mouth. And grilled cheese gave me the implicit okay to play with my food, stretching the strands of melted cheese between my front teeth and the sandwich as I pulled it as far from my mouth as my small arms would reach. My fingertips slick with butter, I savored every last lick. Wash my hands? Youve got to be kidding.

But as I got older, the allure of the grilled cheese sandwich got even stronger. It made the case for eating slowly and deliberately because the filaments of melted cheese could not be chewed quickly. Their springy nature demanded a slow, thoughtful chew, the kind that, say, saltwater taffy or caramel command. Like those confections, the cheesy strands offered an unparalleled textural satisfaction. And the yin to the pillowy cheeses yang was the crunchy bread that encased it.

For me, the grilled cheese sandwich was never ordinary. It was always a special treat. Melted cheese of any kind was so deeply satisfying that I couldnt imagine a grilled cheese sandwich as something that should be eaten fast or relegated to side status as, say, an accompaniment to tomato soup. Yet that was and is the appeal of grilled cheese. Its a simple food. Its diner food. Its kid food. Its Saturday lunch fare on a chilly day. Occasionally its even on the menu of a white tablecloth restaurant. It can go anywhere, and it never disappoints.

Versatility is perhaps the grilled cheese sandwichs greatest feature. It can be gussied up when adorned with sauted rosemary and grapes, or dressed down when paired with a piece of ham, but its core componentsmelted cheese and breadalways remain the same.

The grilled cheese sandwich also finds its place at a party. Small squares of sourdough-encrusted melted cheddar cheese layered with thin slices of apple and ham can incite a small riot. Sauted buttery figs nestled in creamy blue cheese will bring a highbrow group to its knees. And those avoiding bread will clamor for the portobello mushroom that houses gooey provolone and an herbed tomato slice. In all these cases, the grilled cheese sandwich shows itself for all that it isa symbol of infinite possibilities.

Confining those possibilities to just fifty recipes wasnt easy. As I shopped at the market, every produce item suddenly became a potential ingredient; every condiment, the perfect addition; each spice, a door to a world of flavors. And you too should feel free to embellish your grilled cheese however you like.

The sandwich we call grilled cheese shows off its adaptability in more than just the ingredients it can showcase. It is also a sandwich that can be cooked in several ways. Despite its name, the grilled cheese sandwich as we know it did not begin on a grill. In fact, it may never have been intended for the object we call a grill (see the Grilled Cheese History section that follows). Thats why almost every recipe in this book contains instructions for cooking the sandwiches on the stove, in a sandwich maker, or, in their literal formon the outdoor grill. If youre feeling daring, you can go beyond these three cooking methods and use your broiler or perhaps your oven. Think of these recipes as templates to be filled in with your imagination.

The recipes are centered on the most enticing ways to put bread and cheese together. In addition to recipes for classic grilled cheese sandwiches, you will find recipes that include fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices, meat and fish, even chocolate! And with the soaring popularity of tortillas in this country, I thought it fitting to include five delicious quesadilla recipes. After all, it doesnt get much better than melted cheese encased in a crispy tortilla.

Perhaps it is all these variationsand the possibility of so many morethat have captivated me and drawn me into the world of grilled cheese. I hope that if you are new to this expanded universe, you will be equally enthralled. If you are already familiar with the wonders of grilled cheese, I hope this book will provide fresh inspiration.