To Dad, whose bemusement at my profession was par for the course, but whose love and support of the same was anything but. I hope the mac & cheese is meeting your standards in that great sky above.
Mac & Cheese, Please! copyright 2012 Laura Werlin. Photographs copyright 2012 Maren Caruso. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of reprints in the context of reviews.
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classic mac & cheese Serves 6
This is a classic mac & cheese in every way but it includes onion. I like the sweetness the onions add, but if you prefer, simply leave them out. The dish will likely make it into your regular mac & cheese repertoire either way.
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces small elbow macaroni
5 tablespoons salted butter
2 cups coarse, fresh bread crumbs (preferably homemade)
2 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (about cup)
cup finely diced yellow onion (about medium onion)
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole or reduced-fat milk
1 cup heavy cream
6 ounces medium or aged cheddar cheese, preferably orange,
coarsely grated (2 cups)
6 ounces Gruyre cheese, coarsely grated (2 cups)
teaspoon mustard powder
teaspoon cayenne pepper
teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 375F. Butter an 8-inch square (1-quart) baking dish or pan (or six 8-ounce ramekins). Set aside.
Fill a 4- to 5-quart pot about three-quarters full with water and add 1 tablespoon of the salt. Bring to a boil and add the pasta. Cook, stirring once or twice, until tender but firm, 4 to 6 minutes, and drain. Reserve the pot.
While the pasta is cooking, in a medium skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Turn off the heat and add the bread crumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir until mixed well. Set aside.
Using the same pot you used to cook the pasta, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in the flour and stir constantly until the onion is coated with the flour, 30 to 45 seconds. Continue stirring for 1 to 2 minutes more, until the mixture starts to darken slightly and smell a bit nutty. Slowly whisk in the milk, cream, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and cook until the mixture is just beginning to thicken and bubble around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. It should be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Add the Gruyre, cheddar, mustard powder, cayenne, and nutmeg and cook until the cheeses have melted and the sauce is smooth but not too runny. It should be similar in texture to cake batter. If its soupy, continue cooking until it thickens.
Add the pasta and stir to combine. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with the remaining cup of cheddar and top with the bread crumb mixture. Place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.
Add-Ins
Bacon : Cook 6 to 8 slices bacon. Crumble and add after the cheeses have been added and the sauce is smooth, and/or
: Add after the cheeses have been added and the sauce is smooth, and/or
Arugula: Add 6 cups, a handful at a time, after the cheeses have been added and the sauce is smooth, and/or
Roasted red peppers : Add cup coarsely chopped peppers from a jar along with the pasta.
classic mac & cheese (stovetop version) Serves 6
Because this version of the classic isnt baked, its a bit creamier than the oven-cooked one . and unlike its baked counterpart, it doesnt have the same cheesy crust. Its still plenty cheesy and crunchy, though, because of the Parmesan bread crumbs. Plus, its especially great to make when you cant bear to wait 45 minutes for the oven version to bake and cool.
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces small elbow macaroni
5 tablespoons salted butter
2 cups coarse, fresh bread crumbs (preferably homemade)
1 ounce Parmigiano-reggiano or Pecorino romano cheese, finely grated (about cup)
cup finely diced yellow onion (about medium onion)
cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole or reduced-fat milk
cup heavy cream
6 ounces gruyre cheese, coarsely grated (2 cups)
6 ounces cheddar cheese, preferably orange, coarsely grated (2 cups)
teaspoon mustard powder
teaspoon cayenne pepper
teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
Fill a 4- to 5-quart pot about three-quarters full with water and add 1 tablespoon of the salt. Bring to a boil and add the pasta. Cook, stirring once or twice, until tender but firm, 4 to 6 minutes, and drain. Reserve the pot.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano and cook, stirring constantly, until the crumbs are a deep golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Watch carefully because they can burn easily. The crumbs will continue to crisp as they cool. Remove immediately from the heat and set aside. (Note: These can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored at room temperature in an airtight container.)
Using the same pot you used to cook the pasta, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in the flour and stir constantly until the onion is coated with the flour, 30 to 45 seconds. Continue stirring for 1 to 2 minutes more, until the mixture starts to darken slightly and smell a bit nutty. Slowly whisk in the milk, cream, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and cook until the mixture is just beginning to thicken and bubble around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. It should be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Add the Gruyre, cheddar, mustard powder, cayenne, and nutmeg and cook until the cheeses have melted and the sauce is smooth but not too runny. It should be similar in texture to cake batter. If its soupy, continue cooking until it thickens. Add the pasta and stir to combine.