Atkinson - New Zealands South Island Travel Guide

With just a million people scattered across 151,215 sq km, the South Island has a population density smaller than Tasmania, Australia. Filling in the gaps are the sublime forests, mountains, lakes, beaches and fiords that have made New Zealands Mainland one of the best hiking (locals call it tramping) destinations on the planet. Tackle one of the six epic Great Walks or just spend a few dreamy hours wandering through some easily accessible wilderness.

The easygoing heritage charms of Arrowtown, Dunedin and Oamaru are undoubted, but the South Islands most iconic experiences are best enjoyed with a healthy sense of adventure. Kayak in the meandering coves of the Marlborough Sounds or amid Fiordlands remote isolation, scare yourself silly with Queenstowns gravity-defying menu of bungy options, or take to two wheels through stunning scenery on the Otago Central Rail Trail. During winter, squeeze in a short ski-field break around Wanaka, Queenstown or Mt Hutt, before adjourning to cosy bars and cafes to watch NZs rugby legends take on the best of Australia and South Africa.

After all this exercise, visitors can ease into the local eating and drinking scene. NZ food was once a bland facsimile of a British Sunday dinner, but these days Kiwi chefs dip into new-world culinary oceans for inspiration. Expect a tasty focus on local and seasonal produce, especially around the stone-fruit orchards of Otago and the salty marine larder surrounding Kaikoura.

Thirsty? NZs cool-climate wineries have been collecting trophies for decades now, and Marlborough, Christchurch and Dunedin are all hoppy hubs for the countrys emerging craft beer movement.

Prepare to meet the South Islands idiosyncratic wildlife: whales, fur seals, dolphins and penguins frequent the waters around Kaikoura, partnered by an armada of pelagic bird species; NZs endangered Hectors dolphins cavort in the waters of Banks Peninsula and the Catlins; and the Otago Peninsula has penguins, royal albatross and sea lions. Further south, battered by Southern Ocean winds, Stewart Island presents opportunities to spy NZs iconic but shy kiwi. More bolshy avian species include the kea, NZs native alpine parrot. Keep a close eye on your rental cars aerial if theyre hanging around.

Lake Tekapo ()
MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET

Why I Love the South Island

By Brett Atkinson, Coordinating Author

Although Im a born and bred North Islander, Im a huge fan of the South Island. Kayaking around Abel Tasman National Park is truly special include time to explore Marlboroughs craft beer scene and further south at Kaikoura and Akaroa Ive loved swimming with fur seals and dolphins. Historic Dunedin and Oamaru are packed with heritage architecture (and great pubs), and Christchurchs post-earthquake creativity and energy are contagious. Beautiful Central Otago, the sleepy Catlins coast, and wildlife-watching on the Otago Peninsula are all special memories.

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The South Islands Top 15

DAVID WALL/GETTY IMAGES

Heres New Zealand nature at its most glorious and seductive: lush green hills fringed with golden sandy coves, slipping gently into warm shallows before meeting a crystal-clear sea of cerulean blue. Abel Tasman National Park () is the quintessential postcard paradise, where you can put yourself in the picture, assuming an endless number of poses: tramping, kayaking, swimming, sunbathing, or even makin whoopee in the woods. This sweet-as corner of NZs South Island raises the bar and effortlessly keeps it there.