Isaacs - Cooking for my father in my Cape Malay kitchen

Yours is the light by which my spirits born: you are my sun, my moon, and all my stars.

EE CUMMINGS

To my husband Turhaan, without your love nothing seems possible, without your love nothing makes sense, without your love I am restless, wandering this earth aimlessly, lost! You are and always will be my reflection. I love you.

The sands of time have fallen thus; the moon and stars are one with us
No more of words or planets far; we must salute the rising star!

BIENYAMEEN ISAACS

To my brother Bienyameen, who reminds me of my worth in this world, who turns me toward the light of God when darkness falls and who whispered softly to me that the absence of this book and this story would have been a loss to the world! I am so blessed to be your sister. I love you.

The time has come, go and fetch your father and bring him home.

AMR ADEL

To my mentor and dearest friend, Amr. You reminded me every day that I had a duty to fulfil, that when Gods time was right, I would be called upon to return to South Africa to bring my father back home with me before it was too late. Your presence in my life continues to be a guiding force. I am eternally grateful

Foreword

Her absence is like the sky, spread over everything.

CW LEWIS, ON THE DEATH OF HIS WIFE

My beloved father passed away on 12 March 2013, and nothing about me seems the same. As time passes by, pushing me further from the day he died, I continue to feel a tender melancholy that comes from missing someone I have known all my life. The last six months before he died were spent cooking all of the foods that he loved, with a promise that I would one day write this book, share my recipes and tell our story.

My father, Moegamad Rashaad Isaacs, was born in District Six on 12 November 1945 and later moved to Bo-Kaap, the Cape Malay Quarter in Cape Town. He came from a family of talented cooks, who cooked with pride and passion. My grandmother, Raghmah Hartley, was an amazing woman and an exceptional cook. I dont think she ever cooked a bad meal in all her life. It was in her kitchen that I discovered ingredients such as garlic, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Id sit on the floor, opening all her spice jars and inhaling the exotic fragrances of spices such as cumin, turmeric, masala and coriander. Id be given little tasks that made me feel very grown-up, from peeling potatoes to taking the peas from their pods, completely amazed that those little green balls would soon be transformed into something so delicious. Her kitchen was small and very modest, with only the basics needed for cooking, but it was my little castle.

My father shared his mothers love of good food and cooking. My grandmother taught me how to cook, but what I learned from my father was even more valuable he taught me why we cook. He explained that cooking is both a form of prayer/meditation and of charity (which is why some people find it so therapeutic). He went on to explain that every single ingredient used in a dish is from the Divine and should therefore be used with care. He wanted me to understand that when I am preparing a meal and serving people, I have an opportunity to share a part of myself with them. He insisted that cooking has to be a labour of love; else all you will end up with is an unappetising assortment of warm ingredients.

My father believed that the only way to cook is to cook with love. He also believed that the only way to eat was with someone, never alone

This is for you, Pappa, the heart of my kitchen!

Notes for the Reader

Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit, wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

MILES KINGTON

It is essential to know and acquaint yourself with the information I am about to share, as this will aid in achieving success when using the recipes in this book.

UNDERSTAND YOUR STOVETOP SETTINGS

What does it mean when a recipe refers to a low, medium or high setting? What are the actual temperatures being referred to?

Heat generation and intensity depends not only on the type of electric device you are using, but also on the type of pot being used, for example aluminium, ceramic, cast iron, and so on. I can get scientific about this, but that may put a novice off from even wanting to attempt any recipe. Thus all you really need to know is that medium will be hotter than low, and high will be hotter than medium; medium falls somewhere in between low and high. The lower settings usually create a gentle simmer and a medium to high setting creates a rapid to sweltering simmer.

THE TIMING OF ALL THINGS

To the best of my ability, Ive timed and tested all my recipes to ensure that the end result is exceptional. However, its important to do random checks and taste tests because individual tastes differ and so, too, quality of ingredients, more specifically meat, vegetables and baking ingredients.

WHAT IS A SMALL, MEDIUM OR LARGE ONION/POTATO/TOMATO?

Most of the recipes in this book call for medium or large onions. A medium-sized onion equates to the size of a lemon and large is the size of an orange or apple. To be more precise, a medium onion should yield approximately 1 cup of chopped onion. A large onion should yield close to or just less than 2 cups of chopped onion.

SALT, MORE SALT AND A LITTLE BIT OF SUGAR

Bear in mind that the majority of my recipes are Cape Malay based, which means that the addition of sugar is essential. It all comes down to individual palates and preference, therefore always do a taste test before serving and adjust seasoning where required.

HOT, MILD AND SLIGHT HEAT

Chillies used for the recipes in this book are local chillies, which are typically mild and are added for slight heat and to enhance flavour. Dried chilli powder or chilli flakes are much hotter than fresh ones, thus use with caution. The paprika I use is neither sweet nor hot and is suitable to enhance flavour and add colour to the dish.

CURRY GRAVIES

Cape Malay curries have a much thicker gravy than Indian-based curries because a fair amount of tomatoes are added to the dish. I often use a combination of fresh and canned tomatoes. By all means, forego the canned tomatoes and incorporate fresh, ripe tomatoes. Its important to note, though, that you will have to add at least three large, ripe tomatoes or four to five small to medium-sized ones to ensure a lush, thick gravy.

CURRY SPICES

I only use four types of powdered spices for curries: turmeric, ground cumin, roasted or leaf masala and kokhni masala. These are very popular in Cape Town and are spices that I have cooked with for many years. The kokhni masala contains a combination of dried chilli flakes and chilli powder, but is not as pungent as pure chilli powder. If youre unsure about which spices to use or in the absence of the masalas Ive mentioned here, then simply use a good quality chilli powder or curry powder, along with the turmeric and ground cumin.

BRANDED PRODUCTS

Some of the branded products mentioned in this book are ones that I use for cooking and have also been passed on to me. You may use substitutes if you so wish, but I cannot guarantee that the taste will not be compromised.

EATING IS A NECESSITY, COOKING IS AN ART

If youre going to approach cooking with finesse and love, then chances are youll end up with a dish that reflects just that! I am excited and thrilled to be able to present these recipes to you, and hope that they fill your home with love as they have mine for so many years.