Max Evans - This chosen place: finding Shangri-La on the 4UR

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Page i This Chosen Place

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Page iii Other Works by Max Evans: Southwest Wind Long John Dunn of Taos The Rounders The Hi Lo Country The One Eyed Sky The Mountain of Gold Shadow of Thunder My Pardner SamPeckinpahMaster of Violence Bobby Jack Smith: You Dirty Coward The Great Wedding The White Shadow Xavier's Folly and Other Stories Super Bulland Other True Escapades Rounders Three (a trilogy) Bluefeather Fellini Bluefeather Fellini in the Sacred Realm Spinning Sun, Grinning Moon Broken Bones and Broken Hearts This Chosen Place

Page iv This Chosen Place FINDING SHANGRI-LA ON THE 4UR Max Evans Foreword by Tom Lea

Page v Copyright 1997 by Max Evans Published by the University Press of Colorado P.O. Box 849 Niwot, Colorado 80544 (303) 530-5337 All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. The University Press of Colorado is a cooperative publishing enterprise supported, in part, by Adams State College, Colorado State University, Fort Lewis College, Mesa State College, Metropolitan State College of Denver, University of Colorado, University of Northern Colorado, University of Southern Colorado, and Western State College of Colorado. The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information SciencesPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials. ANSI Z39.48-1984. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (to come) 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Title page photo: Stylish women of 1883 fishing on a portion of the Rio Grande that is now part of the 4UR. (Courtesy, the American Museum of Fly Fishing, Manchester, Vermont.)

Page vi A Dedication of Memories To: Herman Eubank, my last living war buddy, who fought for the boxing championship even though I was his manager, and who, like General John C. Fremontthough well over a hundred years laternearly froze to death in the mountains above Creede, Colorado. Every day, while I scribble my life away, he has enough good sense to go fishing. To: Robert Conley, whose writings of the Cherokee Real People are far too slowly receiving their justified worldly acclaim. Even while the little people haunt him into recording the beautiful and historic worlds of the Southeast forests, an occasional Wild Turkey keeps him smiling. To: Ed Honeck, one of the original Orange County Cowboys, who has hung tough, against unbelievable odds, longer than anyone I knowand with great good humor. To: J. Lee Smith, deceased, my old high school principal who somehow had the vision to work it so I could read the old masters like Balzac, Dostoyevsky, and Cervantes, while other students were doing standard homework. He never missed a wing-shot, eitherwhen we were hungry. All of these people have, or had, that rarest combination of human traits, dead-on loyalty to earned friends, knowing it is not to be qualified. We shared thousands of laughs at how ridiculous we all are, especially ourselves.

Page ix Contents Foreword xi Acknowledgments xiii Introduction xv 1. This Chosen Place 1 2. The Valley of Sudden Death and Bountiful Giving 9 3. Roots of Home and Guts Aplenty 12 4. Back When the Horses Came Running 23 5. The Launching of a Giant 30 6. Consummate Courage, White Death and Making History 42 7. The Days of Surging Power and Overcoming 57 8. General Palmer: Civil War Hero and Owner of the 4UR 64 9. The Phipps Clan of Colorado: Doers and Givers Supreme 75 10. Explosions of Energy Catapulting Through Canyons of Dreams 85 11. There Is No Night in Creede, or So They Once Said 98 12. Go West, Young General, Go West to the Colorado Rockies 111 13. Charles H. Leavell's Power on the Ground and in the Air 125 14. The Leavell Company Joins the Cold War with Hot Projects 141 15. The Wiles of Walton and the Last Trail Winding 148 16. Buying Up the World and Hoping for Paradise

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