Fain - Queso!: regional recipes for the worlds favorite chile-cheese dip

ACCOMPANIMENTS

Here are the salsas and pickles that are used throughout the book and that you will always find in my refrigerator. If you are inclined to fry your own chips and tostadas, I can help you with that, too.

GUACAMOLE

Creamy and smooth guacamole is a perfect accompaniment to hot chiles and cheese.

MAKES 2 CUPS

2 ripe avocados, halved, pitted, and peeled

2 serrano chiles, seeded and finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

teaspoon kosher salt

In a bowl and using a fork, mash together the avocados, serranos, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, and salt. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if you like. Serve immediately.

PICO DE GALLO

This refreshing salsa makes a hearty, lively addition to chile con queso. Its best the day its made, but will last a day or two if kept refrigerated. Leftovers go well with chips and on salads.

MAKES 2 CUPS

2 cups diced grape tomatoes

2 jalapeos, seeded and diced

cup diced red onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoons olive oil

Mix together the tomatoes, jalapeos, onion, garlic, cilantro, salt, cumin, lime juice, and olive oil until well combined. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if you like. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.

PICKLED JALAPEOS

These chiles add a bright, piquant note to most quesos.

MAKES 1 PINT

6 jalapeos, sliced into -inch rounds

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

teaspoon ground cumin

cup white vinegar

cup water

Place the jalapeos, garlic, salt, mustard seeds, cumin, vinegar, and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn off the heat. Pour the mixture into a clean pint jar. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes. The jalapeos are ready to use immediately, or refrigerate for a few hours for even better flavor. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

GREEN CHILE SALSA VERDE

This tangy salsa makes an appearance in a few recipes in this book and is also a fine dipping sauce on its own.

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

pound tomatillos, husked

2 serrano chiles, halved lengthwise and seeded

2 cloves garlic

2 Anaheim chiles, roasted (see ), peeled, and seeded

cup fresh cilantro

teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon ground cumin

Pinch of cayenne (optional)

Place the tomatillos, serranos, and garlic in a saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a boil over high heat, and then turn down the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let cool for 10 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos, serranos, and garlic to a blender. Pour in cup of the cooking water; add the Anaheims, cilantro, salt, and cumin; and puree until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding cayenne if you desire it hotter. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

TORTILLA CHIPS

Sure, tortilla chips are readily available, but nothing beats the crisp excellence of a batch fresh out of the fryer. If you have the time and inclination, I suggest making your own at home.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Vegetable oil, for frying

24 corn tortillas, cut into quarters

Kosher salt

Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

In a large, heavy skillet, warm about inch vegetable oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 325F. In small batches (dont crowd the pan), place the tortillas in the hot oil and fry until light brown and crisp, about 30 seconds per side, turning them with a slotted spatula. Transfer the chips to the prepared baking sheet and lightly sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

CRISPY TOSTADAS

Simply leave the tortillas whole and cook as directed.

PUFFY TOSTADAS

For years I wanted to make puffy tostadas like the ones you see at Tex-Mex restaurants such as Los Tios in Houston. The light, airy shells with a swollen yet delicate structure somehow manage to support a magnitude of queso. Whenever I attempted to make them at home in New York, however, I could never get them to work. I thought the secret was using raw, just-pressed tortillas. But one day I threw a cooked tortilla into hot oil and was delighted to see it blow up like a balloon. I soon discovered that fresh tortillas made with minimal ingredients are key. The package ingredients should read: corn, lime, and water. If you see fillers, the tortillas are probably too processed to puff. (In the Southwest, you shouldnt have a problem finding good, fresh ones; elsewhere, try Trader Joes or Whole Foods.)

Although this method is a bit of an art, if you ensure your oil is at 375F and your corn tortillas are fresh and made without fillers, youll be well on your way to puffy tostada success. If your first tortilla doesnt inflate, keep trying. It took me years to get it right! To serve puffy tostadas, pour the queso of your choice over the freshly fried tostadas.

MAKES 12 TOSTADAS

Vegetable oil, for frying

12 corn tortillas

Kosher salt

Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

In a large skillet, warm 2 inches of vegetable oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 375F. Place a tortilla in the hot oil and press on the edges with a slotted spatula. After a few seconds, the tortilla should puff up. Gently flip it over and let it cook for 20 seconds longer. Using the spatula, transfer the tostada to the prepared baking sheet and lightly sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. Serve immediately.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

It always takes quite a few people to put together a book, and here are those who were very helpful in bringing Queso! to life.

First, I want to thank my dear friends Monica Crowley and Shelby Walters who one night in Austin listened to my thoughts on queso and thought they would make for a fun book. Their constant nudging to pursue the project convinced me it was a fine idea.

My energetic agent and fellow Texan Brettne Bloom was a prime mover in getting this book out of my head and into your hands. Her assistant at The Book Group, Dana Murphy, has also been very helpful.

It is such an honor to be published by Ten Speed Press, which produces some of my favorite books. Thank you to Emily Timberlake for her sunny enthusiasm, Dawn Yanagihara for making the manuscript shine, Margaux Keres for her beautiful design, and Aubrie Pick for her gorgeous photography. Also instrumental for making this such an outstanding book are Kristin Casemore, Windy Dorrestyn, Allison Renzulli, Ashley Lima, Emma Campion, Heather Porter, Bessma Khalaf, Lillian Kang, Claire Mack, Veronica Laramie, Cortney Munna, Molly Jackel, Abigail Bok, Aaron Wehner, and Hannah Rahill.

As I traveled around learning about queso, I spoke with some people who shared with me their favorite spots and recipes. I am thankful for Cynthia Adrian, Rob Bhatka, Audri Escobedo, Maynard Haddad, Jennifer Holguin, Melanie Lopez, D. J. Martinez, Victoria Ventura, Marshall Wright, John McClure, Cynthia Rey, and Martina Rey for being generous with their queso knowledge.

A big debt of gratitude to librarians John Wilson, Amie Oliver, Brian Simmons, and Tiff Sowell at The Texas Collection at Baylor University and to Amber Harmon at Pace Library at the University of Texas at San Antonio, who pulled countless old cookbooks for me to read.

Heres to my recipe testers who did the difficult work of making queso and providing valuable feedback on the dishes: Lisa Brownlee, Julie Fisher, Ginny Heckel, Dominique Jernigan, Julie Jernigan, Nathan Jernigan, Richard Jernigan, Kirk Justus, Timothy Richardson, and Debra Pearson.