Clayton-Malone Patrick - Canteen: Great British Food

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Random House Group Text Cass Titcombe, Dominic Lake and Patrick Clayton-Malone 2010
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CONTENTS SEASONAL
BRITISH
ALL-DAY
DINING FOREWORD The first time I reviewed Canteen, I went for breakfast and stayed for lunch. I was single on a Sunday morning, possibly the loneliest of all human conditions, and had nothing in the house to eat, let alone cuddle. So I crawled into a pair of tracksuit bottoms and a holey jumper and slouched moodily off to Spitalfields for a fry-up at this new place Id read about, which was taking the uber-trendy new British cooking and giving it to the people. They had got everything right in terms of provenance, principles and a party atmosphere, and it was said the plan was to gradually roll out a bit of a mini-chain. In such a fashionable area, with such a modern food philosophy, I was half-fearing a restaurant high in concept but low in creature comforts: bony copywriters in fashion spectacles poking woodcock beaks and turnip tops around a square plate and listening to German techno on their iPods.

But it was nothing of the sort, and I was blown away. For here were toasted crumpets and butter, devilled kidneys, mushrooms on toast, potted duck with homemade piccalilli, welsh rarebit, hot buttered Arbroath smokies and macaroni cheese. And the place was warm and buzzy and full of families, contented solo eaters, and pretty girls. Everything you could ask for. Within minutes, I had a great coffee in front of me the sine qua non. And then I believe I had a single egg Benedict, with an egg Florentine on the side.

And on the side of that, one of those crispy pucks of bubble and squeak they do, which I have now every time I go. And then, as noon came and the menu rolled over into lunch, I had the roast rib of Charolais-Limousin from Sussex, sliced very thick and served pink and full of deep, beefy flavours, with exemplary Yorkshire pudding and potatoes roasted in duck fat. And then, just when I thought it couldnt get any better, one of Canteens founder heroes comes up to say hello, and its Dominic Lake, my old pal from the Dome Caf Bar in Hampstead, where we worked together as barmen in the early 1990s. I was already planning to be regular at Canteen, now it turned out I was family! If Dom and I learned anything from our days at the Dome, it was just how a restaurant should not be run, and just what sort of food people should not be expected to eat. It is amazing to think how far London has come as an eating town since then, and the progress restaurants have made is nowhere exemplified better than at Canteen. Ive got the Baker Street branch now, which is much closer to home, so Im a bit lazy about going into Spitalfields (or the Festival Hall).

And now there is the recipe book, which you are holding in your hands. In theory, I can go through it page by page and make my own curried parsnip soup, steamed syrup pudding and spicy mutton pie. But thats not my style. Im going to treat it as a menu. Im going to drool over these stunning (and unusually funny and unpompous) pictures, thumb through the list of dishes until I find the one I fancy, and then get in the car and go down to Canteen and tell them to get on with it. Giles Coren London, 2010 INTRODUCTION Canteen is committed to providing honest food, nationally sourced, skilfully prepared and reasonably priced.

We believe in good produce provenance. Our meat is additive-free, sourced directly from producers practising good animal husbandry and our fish delivered fresh from day boats on the South Coast. All dishes are cooked to order and the menu changes seasonally to accommodate the best and freshest national produce. When we opened the first Canteen restaurant in 2005, in Spitalfields, London, we sought to offer reasonably priced, high-quality, modern British cooking in a welcoming environment that celebrated British craftsmanship and design. In all of this we think we have achieved our goal. There are now three more Canteens in London in Baker Street, at the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank and at Canary Wharf.

All continue the Canteen philosophy of providing affordable honest food in well-designed, relaxing surroundings, throughout the day. COOKING Canteen is often described as a stylish cross between a British transport caff and a diner, so its not surprising to find sausages and mash with onion gravy, Scotch eggs, fish and chips, and fish cake with mushy peas on our menu. But ours are the best of the best and we hope you will try out our recipes. Pies are our true signature dishes we have made it our mission to resurrect our countrys honourable tradition of savoury pastries. Inside their buttery pastry crust, our pies have savoury fillings made with the most appetising ingredients of the season. Steak and kidney, spicy mutton, and chicken and mushroom are perennial favourites.

We always have a good selection of veggie pies too. In the restaurant our pies are served with mash, greens and proper gravy this is our value meal offered at a reasonable price. Theres always a daily roast on our menu lamb, beef, pork or duck as well as roast chicken, prepared and cooked at lunchtime and at dinnertime so theyre fresh and succulent, never dried out. In the Roasts and Grills section youll find recipes to show you how to cook these our way, as well as the essential sides and garnishes including proper gravy. Were unapologetically nostalgic when it comes to our desserts and cakes. We truly believe that its hard to beat treacle tart with clotted cream, crumble with custard, or home-made jelly and ice cream, especially with shortbread fingers.