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Craig Luebben - How to rappel!

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Through the use of more than 100 clear photos and concise text on all aspects of rappelling, from rigging simple rope and anchor systems to dealing with complicated emergency situations.

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Page i
How to Rappel!
Craig Luebben
How to rappel - image 2
Page ii
Falcon Publishing, Inc.
P.O. Box 1718
Helena, Montana 59624
How to Rappel!
2000 Craig Luebben
All rights reserved. Published in 2000.
Printed in the United States of America.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 MG 05 04 03 02 01 00
No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Cover photo by Craig Luebben.
Inside photos by author unless otherwise noted.
Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file at the Library of Congress.
WARNING: CLIMBING IS A SPORT WHERE YOU MAY BE SERIOUSLY INJURED OR DIE
READ THIS BEFORE YOU USE THIS BOOK
This is an instruction book to rock climbing and rappelling, sports which are inherently dangerous. You should not depend solely on information gleaned from this book for your personal safety. Your climbing safety depends on your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of your climbing ability.
There is no substitute for personal instruction in rappelling and climbing instruction is widely available. You should engage an instructor or guide to learn the climbing safety techniques. If you misinterpret a concept expressed in this book, you may be killed or seriously injured as a result of the misunderstanding. Therefore, the information provided in this book should be used only to supplement competent personal instruction from a climbing instructor or guide. Even after you are proficient in climbing safely, occasional use of a climbing guide is a safe way to raise your climbing standard and learn advanced techniques.
There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that this instruction book contains accurate and reliable information. There are no warranties as to fitness for a particular purpose or that this book is merchantable. Your use of this book indicates your assumption of the risk of death or serious injury as a result of climbing's risks and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your climbing safety.
Page iii
Contents
Acknowledgments
v
Foreword
v
The Standard Rappel
1
Rappel Anchors
5
Rope Management
24
Rappel Devices
31
Safety Backups
37
"On Rappel!"
43
Stuck Ropes
55
Special Situations
61
Index
67

Page iv
Rappelling to descend from the West Buttress Eldorado Canyon Colorado - photo 3
Rappelling to descend from the West Buttress, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
Page v
Acknowledgments
Thanks to John Bicknell and Ed Crothers, owners of Colorado Mountain School, one of America's premier mountain guide services, for reviewing this book and offering many valuable suggestions. Thanks also to Joe Josephson, who created the initial outline and contributed many ideas on rappelling.
Much appreciation goes to my great models who suffered through my sour moods when re-shooting certain sequences for the third time, or when the deadline was looming like a guillotine: Jen Barrientos, Steph Davis, Carol Adair, Joe Corsini, and Silvia Luebben.
Finally, thanks to the following companies for contributing gear: Trango, Misty Mountain Threadworks, Five Ten, Petzel, Stonewear Designs, and Sterling Ropes.
Foreword
My introduction to technical climbing was by way of rappelling at age fourteen. We bought a seventy-foot piece of 9-millimeter rope and wore it out rappelling off the outdoor handball courts at our junior high school. In time, rappelling for me became only a tool for descending from climbs.
Rappelling is used in many endeavors, though: spelunking, canyoneering, urban and wilderness rescue, military maneuvers, window washing, bird research, tree climbing, rock and ice climbing, and mountaineering. Many people consider rappelling a sport unto itself. Though this book is written from the climbing/mountaineering perspective, the principles covered are relevant to all disciplines of rappelling.
Rappelling is serious business. It consistently ranks among the leading causes of climbing fatalities, according to Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Performed with care, you can make thousands of rappels without incident. Get careless, and your next rappel may be your last.
Page vi
Descending Independence Monument Colorado National Monument - photo 4
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