WHO KNEW I HAD SUCH THRIFTY PALS? FOR PROVIDING ME WITH INGENIOUS TIPSWHETHER CONSCIOUSLY OR NOTAND FOR TESTING OUT MY ZANY IDEAS, I OWE THANKS TO BETONY TOHT, MERRITT LEAR, JOE CASSIDY, JUDE ANGELINI, KAREN AND LIZ SILVERSTEIN, MICHELLE DIETZ, CATE AND AARON MILLER, MOLLY FAST, SUSANNAH LESCHER, STACI MARENGO, TUERE MERRIOUNS, LISA CONGDON, KARA CORRIDAN, ALISON MARKOVITZ, WESLEY MORRIS, IKE DELORENZO, MARTHA MCCULLY, DAN DILIBERTO, MATT SURMAN, DANA HOEY, JULIE ROSEFSKY, ELISA ALBERT, STEPHEN FITZPATRICK, AND JEFF BOEHM. SORRY FOR BEING SUCH A NOSY SNOOP AND MAKING YOU ALL TURN YOUR EGGS UPSIDE DOWN. THANKS TO THE BRILLIANT JODI WARSHAW FOR BELIEVING THAT THERE WAS HOPE FOR A LESS-THAN-CAREFUL SPENDER, AND TO ANDY MCNICOL FOR FINDING ME THE MEANS TO SUPPORT MY (NOW REFORMED) SHOPPING HABITS. TO MY BROTHER PAUL, FOR BEING THE BEST PENNY (AND HUNDRED) SAVER I KNOW, AND TO MY PARENTS, LINDA AND FRED KNAUER AND JOSEPH DILIBERTO, FOR TEACHING ME TO SPEND LIKE THERES NO TOMORROW. FOR BETTER OR WORSE, AS WE ALL KNOWTHERE IS.
Meat & Poultry
. Buy the whole chicken instead of parts. When you buy choice cuts, you pay more for the labor of cutting them up. Instead, buy whole chickens and save unused pieces for later use. And dont forget to save the bones to make a delicious savory broth.
How To Cut Up A Chicken
For years I avoided buying a whole bird because I had no idea how to cut it into pieces. Then a butcher told me about the following easy steps: First, separate the legs from the body. Next, separate the drumsticks from the thighs. Then, separate the wings from the body. Place the chicken breast-side down and cut along each side of the spine to remove the backbone (save the backbone for stock). Finally, cut the breast in half.
. Dont be afraid to ask your butcher for any leftover bones or trimmings when youre buying meat. You can use them to make flavorful stock to use in your cooking.
Keeping Stock
Take a cue from Depression-era housewivesnever throw away a bone of any kind! Boil them up to make brothadd onions, carrots, celery, parsnip, and whatever other elderly veggies are taking up space in your kitchenand pop it in the freezer to use later. Its hard to find a gourmet recipe that doesnt call for chicken, beef, or vegetable stock. This rich, slowly simmered broth adds depth to meat, pasta, and side dishes and can be used as a base for soups and gravies. Before I realized how easy it is to make, I used canned stock whenever I needed it; however, while canned stock is convenient, its expensive, and it contains a lot of sodium. Since I also like to use organic ingredients whenever possible, and I cant be sure of the quality of the meat and veggies used to make store-bought stock, I now prefer to make my own.
STOCK CONSISTS OF THREE BASIC ELEMENTS:
Protein, fat, and gelatin found in the bones and skin of meat or fish. Vegetable stocks dont have this element, so they rely on the second two elements.
Vegetables for sweetness and depth. Root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips are classic stock ingredients, as are onions, garlic, and celery. Many chefs refer to mirepoixcarrots, onions, and celeryas the holy trinity of vegetables in French cooking, and as crucial to a good stock.
Flavorings herbs, spices, salt, and pepper. Although it is the smallest component in volume, this third element packs a big punch. It is also completely optional. Protein and vegetables are sufficient to make the most basic, and most versatile, stock.
Chicken stock is a classic, and it can be used in a mind-boggling number of recipes. Its also ridiculously easy to make. My mother, an accomplished cook, always has a pot going on her stove and it releases a delicious, fragrant aroma all over the house.
When you ask real cooks for their stock recipe, theyll usually laugh and say, Recipe? The whole point of stock is to thriftily use scraps of leftover meat and vegetables to create something out of nothing. That being said, it can be daunting to just throw a bunch of stuff in a pot with no idea of how its going to come out. So here, provided by my mom (and vetted by the pros), is the formula for an easy stock.
Take a big stockpottall is better than wide, so you dont get too much evaporationand fill it three-quarters of the way full with raw chicken bones and meat scraps. Its important to use bonesand not just meatbecause the rich flavor and gelatin in the stock will come from the bone marrow. The best parts of the chicken to use in stock are the boniestbacks, necks, wings. A good rule of thumb is to go for a ratio of 1 part bones to 1 part meat. Crack the bones before simmering them in order to release the marrow into the broth. Add enough water to cover the bones, plus 1 inch (2.5 cm). Bring to a boil.
Once its almost boiling, reduce the heat and add the vegetables. (You dont want to boil stock, just simmer it. Its the slow cooking that produces the rich flavor.) My mom uses 2 carrots, 2 parsnips, 2 celery ribs, 2 cloves of garlic, and an onion cut in quarters as her stock staples. Theres no need to peel them, because youre going to be straining the broth. You can also add any herbs or seasonings you likefresh peppercorns, parsley, oregano, a seasoning mixjust be sure not to add anything with too much salt, since the stock will reduce and flavors will become concentrated. Most experienced cooks say that adding a bay leaf is crucial. Simmer this mixture for 2 hours, skimming the surface frequently with a big flat spoon to remove impurities. You want it to look as clear as possible. Cool the mixture, and pour it through cheesecloth to strain; then place it in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. A layer of fat will form on the surface, and this should be removed before use.
BELOW ARE A FEW VARIATIONS:
If you want an Asian-flavored stock, add a big piece of fresh, unpeeled ginger and a bunch of scallions to the mix. Duck works really well with these ingredients.
The French always add a bouquet garnia flavorful pouch of herbs such as thyme, parsley, and bay leafto their stock. You can buy this in an expensive gourmet store, but its much cheaper and easier to make your own using your favorite herbs. Just bind them together using butcher twine and wrap in cheesecloth. You can even throw them in a tea strainer for easy removal.
The technique for making fish stock is the same as the one for chicken, but the fish you choose is really importantavoid anything oily like salmon. Leeks and fennel added to the vegetable mix will complement the fishs flavor, as will white wine added to the water. And, although fish heads can look a little scary, many top chefs say that they make the best stock.
Theres a key difference between making beef stock and chicken stock: though chicken bones can be dropped right into the stockpot raw, roasting beef bones, meat, and fat before simmering them will create a deeper flavor. It will also enable you to discard some fat before putting the meat into the pot.
FINALLY, HERE ARE A FEW TIPS
FOR MAKING STOCK:
Cooked bones and scraps from a big holiday turkey are ideal for making your stock. Just dont underseason. You might have added plenty of herbs and spices when you roasted the turkey, but you still need to add seasonings when youre making stock from its carcass. Cloves, peppercorns, thyme, and parsley create a rich, festive taste when added to the seasoning mix.