OUT OF
KENTUCKY
KITCHENS
Marion W. Flexner
THE UNIVERSITY PRESS OF KENTUCKY
Copyright 1949 by Marion Flexner
Originally published by Franklin Watts, Inc.
Copyright 1989 by The University Press of Kentucky
Paperback edition 2010
Scholarly publisher for the Commonwealth,
serving Bellarmine University, Berea College, Centre College of Kentucky,
Eastern Kentucky University, The Filson Historical Society, Georgetown College,
Kentucky Historical Society, Kentucky State University, Morehead State
University, Murray State University, Northern Kentucky University, Transylvania
University, University of Kentucky, University of Louisville, and Western
Kentucky University.
All rights reserved.
Editorial and Sales Offices: The University Press of Kentucky
663 South Limestone Street, Lexington, Kentucky 40508-4008
www.kentuckypress.com
14 13 12 11 10 5 4 3 2 1
The Library of Congress has cataloged the hardcover edition as follows:
Flexner, Marion, 1900
Out of Kentucky kitchens
Reprint, with new pref Originally published: New York: Watts, 1949
1. Cookery, AmericanSouthern style. 2. CookeryKentucky.
3. KentuckySocial life and customs.
I. Title.
[TX715.2.S68F54] 651.59769 89-16651
ISBN 978-0-8131-9348-9 (pbk. : alk. paper)
This book is printed on acid-free recycled paper meeting
the requirements of the American National Standard
for Permanence in Paper for Printed Library Materials.
Manufactured in the United States of America.
Member of the Association of
American University Presses
FOR
HELEN LEOPOLD
who is in a large measure responsible for this book.
With much love,
M. W. F.
Author's Preface
to the Kentucky Edition
I was delighted indeed when the University Press of Kentucky asked my permission to add Out of Kentucky Kitchens to its list of Kentucky classics, and am happy now to give this latest edition my blessing.
Although I've sometimes said that this is not the best of my books, it has nonetheless become a favorite child: first, because of the lovely and generous peoplefriends, strangers, and friends of friendswho contributed their treasured recipes to this collection; and second, because of the new friends it has made for me in the forty years of its existence. Out of Kentucky Kitchens quickly became a kind of letter of introduction for me. Today I still receive letters and calls from people who want to know where they can find a copy (now I can tell them!) and from those who just want to tell me how much they and their families enjoy it. A letter from Wichita a few weeks ago said: I couldn't tell you how many times I've prepared my two favorite dishes from your cookbook, Country Captain and Oscar Heims Meat Loaf. I have served Oscar to family, friends, and company in three states. Last night as we were enjoying Oscar again, I thought of you and wanted you to know.
In these times many young people, both women and men, probably learn their way around the kitchen earlier than I did. When I was married in 1922, I could make excellent fudge and a good herb mayonnaise, but little else. But I knew what good food tasted like and I set out to learn cooking as I would have studied anything else. If you can read, you can cook. So to a new generation of readers I say, welcome and enjoy!
Louisville, Kentucky
June 1, 1989
Acknowledgments
THE FOLLOWING PEOPLE have kindly allowed me to use their treasured recipes in this book: Judy Alexander, Barbara Anderson, Virginia Barker, Anne Clay Beaumont, Lorraine Bell, Irene Bohmer, Judith Bonnie, Charles Bronger, Sarah Buckner, Minnie Buechel, Alene Burger, Mary Helen Byck, Belle Christy, Dorothy Park Clark, Mary Clegg, Mina Cole, Elizabeth Colgan, Josephine Cox, William Crawford, Emily Davenport, Hattie Cochran Dick (The Little Colonel), Leila Dowe, Hortense Dreyfus, Helen Everhardt, Marguerite T. Finnegan, Morris Flexner, Rose Frankel, Peggy Gaines, Arnold Griswold, Camille Glenn, Alice Gray, Marion Green, Cissy Gregg, Katherine Harman, Corrie M. Hill, Julia Duke Henning Senior, Julia Duke Henning Junior, Corrie Hill Hurt, Lellie Ishmael, Lewis Kaye, Eleanor Mercein Kelly, Helen Leopold, Mary Shreve Long, Nick Marlowe, Marley Martin, Alexandra Matheson, Jane McFerran, Louise McKeithen, Isabel McMeekin, Mary Louise McNair, David Minifield, G. W. Munz, Mildred Neff, Mildred Nolan, Emma Ouerbacker, Sarah Parrant, Alice Pickett, Elizabeth Pleus, Josephine Randolph, Garnet Richards, Alice Roberts, Fred Rudolphi, Emily Rush, Noel Rush, Jean Russell, Jennie Selligman, June Smith, Louis Smith, Priscilla Stevenson, Dolly Sullivan, Lena Tachau, Carrie Todd, Allan Trout, Lillian South Tye, Sonia Uri, Mollie Walsh, Mary Lee Warren, Adele K. Weil, Edward West, Queenie Williams, Pauline Park Wilson, Nell Wolfe.
I wish also to express my deep appreciation to Stella Newhouse for her inestimable help in getting this manuscript together.
I wish to thank the following magazines and newspapers for allowing me to reprint various articles and recipes of mine published by them: American Cookery, House and Garden, Gourmet, McCalls, American Home, Vogue, the Louisville Courier-Journal and the Louisville Times.
I am also grateful to the following clubs, restaurants and inns for contributing their specialties: Ashbourne Inn, La Grange, Kentucky; Blue Moon Inn, Montgomery, Alabama; The Brown Hotel, Louisville, Kentucky; Charleston House, Charlestown, Indiana; Churchill Downs, Louisville, Kentucky; Old House, Louisville, Kentucky; Old Stone Inn, Simpsonville, Kentucky; Pendennis Club, Louisville, Kentucky; Pickwick Caf, Montgomery, Alabama; Query Club, Louisville, Kentucky.
M. W. F.
Introduction
IT WAS SAID in the old days that if you had examined the contents of a Kentuckian's pocket you would have found: a bowie knife, the prcis of a lawsuit to defraud his neighbor, and a copy of Paradise Lost. There would also probably have been a sheaf of invitationsto a ball, a New Year's Day Open House, a formal hunt dinner, a Derby breakfast or, in summer, a burgoo or barbecue party. For Kentuckians have always loved to entertain and have always been overly fond of good vittals.
Back in 1874 when the good ladies of the Southern Presbyterian Church of Paris, Kentucky, compiled the now-classic cook book, Housekeeping in the Blue Grass, they could boast in their introduction that the Blue Grass region of Kentuckyis celebrated for the fertility of its soil, its flocks and blooded stocks, and last, but far from least, for the hospitality of the people, and their table luxuries.